Ok this is unfinished and there eorors but since a few people have aksed here it is. Please point out any errors just incase I don't pick them up.
172/182 conversion
FAQ
Do I need to use the rear disk brake/axle?
First off all rear axles are the same width on the Mk2 Clio
Nope the rear drums have a few advantages over the diks as there cheaper to fix, last longer in both of terms of wear and bearing life, have stronger bearings and are more reliable . The only problem with them are that the rear disks from a 172/182 rear axle have thicker anti roll bars and are seen by many to look nice. Also for track driving you migh find the shoes might crack slighty, one fix is to use uprated rear shoes but IMO there no need realy.
The 1.6 and some of the powerful diesel have rear disk they have the thinner anti roll bar but have the same rer disks as a 172 so they don't have the full advantage of a 172 rear axle. Few could tell the thicker roll bar though is fitted.
Body shell isn't as strong/same on 1.2 etc as a 172
The body shells are the same for all phase 1 regardless of type the V6 infact shares a similar body shell as a 1.2 however its quie modified and the original part number is different however a 1.2 shell could be used as a doner to make a V6 shell. There a structural Renault manuls explaining how to use normal Clio bits to make them fit the V6 car.
The phase 2 cars have a slight different shell some parts are strengthened but realy they are the same bodys. 95% of parts are transferable. The shells of the phase 2 are the same though.
Conversion
Ok so you want a 172/182 engine (they are the same apart from thee ECU mapping and exhaust manifold/exhaust so in this article I'll just refere to them both as 172)
First off you have to decide/find a doner car or go buying the bits (cn get expensive buying bits seperate)
First off thers the issue of what phase car to use there 3 realy
1) 172 phase 1 - This is the simpliest in terms of wiring (and my favourite option) there no UCH computer however there are more wires. However they do have a cable throttle pedal so if you have a phase 2 car then you'll need a cable throttle body accelerator pedal.
2) 172 Phase 2 - This is what often refered to as full fat it has a UCH computer which goes above the glove box behind the dashboard. It has an electronic throttle boody so if you have a phase 2 car it just plugs in if you have a phase 1 you'll need an electric throttle pedal.
3) 172 Cup. This is the popular option as the Cups crash more so there more for sale. It like the full fat has a UCH and electric throttle pedal but theres no climate control and less wirs ie no altomatic operator of the rear wiper when reversing no auto lights or windows.
First of to do the conversion you need the engine and assuming your not running a stand alone ECU you want the wiring loom idealy you might even want the standard loom as it may make for a tidier install. Then you want the gearbox you an use a few gearboxes depending upon what wiring loom you have what the doner car is and how complex you want. The 172 Cup and the phase 1 172 use gearboxes with speedo sensors in them. If you don't get a gearbox with one them you'll loose the speedo also the coolent fan will come on earlier at high speed (no huge issue there).
ABS.
Regardless of what car you have you can have or delete ABS from the system (the basic version of ABS the one with ESP is more complex)
The way to sort ABS assuming you have the normal system is easy. Just wire the system up. The wiring plugs on the ABS box are all numbered and labeled below.
(they are all numbered on the unit abeitly in small writing)
1 Earth
2 50 Amp feed from the fuse box number E10 (or F10)
3 25 Amp feed from the fuse box numbeer E9 (or F9)
5 Left hand front wheel signal
6 Left hand rear wheel signal +
8 Right hand rear wheel signal +
9 Right hand front wheel signal +
10 Right hand front wheel signal
11 Diagnostic signal line (so that you can do diagnostics on it though the normal system) no need to be conected though just makes it easier to identify fixes later.
12 Dash fault warning light this goes to the line 21 on the dashboard to set the warning light off no need to conect it but you'll not know where theres a problem
16 Left hand front wheel sensor +
17 Left hand rear wheel sensor signal
18 Feed for after ignition power its a 10Amp fuse number E5 (or F5)
19 Right hand rear wheel signal
20 Brake switch light switch
22 Dash fault warning light this goes to the line 7 on the dashboard to set the warning light off no need to conect it but you'll not know where theres a problem
23 Speed signal used for the speedo etc You don't need to use this its an output only.
If you decide to wire up the ABS system then you could use the ABS system for the speedo rarther than the gearbox sensor this would enable you to run a none Cup or phase 1 box. To make this work you need to have someone with a Renault Clip computer reprogram your dashboard dealerships can do this its a quick change.
Power stearing
There three options
1) Hydrolic PAS system as fitted to the 172 as standard
2) Electric rack as fitted to the phase 1 diesels and almost all phase 2's expect the 172's (its very rare to have a phse 2 non 172 with hydrolic rack I've yet to see one but they do exist I've seen pictures)
3) Manaul rack
If you have a phase 1 except the diesel then you have a hydrolic rack (there a few phase 2's with this but very very few)
For the electric rack to be wired up to a 172 you need to sort out
On the two pin seperate plug
1 80 Amp fuse for the rack
2 Earth
For the larger plug
2 Steering wheel angle sensor -
3 Steering wheel angle sensor 1
4 Steering wheel angle sensor +
6 Power steering torque sensor earth 1
7 Electric power stearing torque sensor 1
8 Electric power stearing torque feed 1
9 Speed signal (come fom the ABS system line 23)
10 After ignition variable power stearing fuse +
11 Electric power steering fault warning light - (goes to line 8 on the dashboard)
13 Stearing wheel angle sensor 2
15 Diagnostic signal line (so that you can do diagnostics on it though the normal system) no need to be conected though just makes it easier to identify fixes later.
17 Electric power stearing torque feed 2
19 RPM feed from ECU from the TDC
The rack mounts are all the same the tie roads at the end of the rack are the same so there no problem. Just remember to remove the PAS pump and either get a shorted belt or have a pulley put in place to take the part. Running the pump with it not connected it will cause engine damage as the pump will burn.
Parts price
£1.5k for the parts often.
Then I'd always recomend changing the below as its easy when the conversions being done and a pain to do when the engine fitted if they were damaged and you didn't know
£150 new cambelt
£80 new clutch
£20 new top mounts
£20 new ball joints
As for engine oil etc I'd use some decinet stuff
Engine oil £40
Gearbox oil £40
Brake fluid £10
Sump washers £2
Then you need or should use a new filters
£7 oil filter
£12 air filter
Then you'll want new disks and pads usually peple use uprated DS2500s stuff and new lines
£200
With most doner cars you only get 1 key so you'd idealy want another one and get it programmed so thats £80 (you don't need the metal key bit since you usually would keep your old keys and just use the new plips as mentioned elsewhere).
Total bill assuming no problems £2161
You'll still need an exhaust as well.
