172 cup handling issues

[stevec93]

Hi all just bought a 172 cup, and the handling is all over the place. It's standard and will need tracking set up aswell but it's got weird issues.

Over rough roads, there's a knock but not so much over big pot holes, so thinking arb bushes?

But the main issue is when cornering left it seems fine, right it seems to need constant steering adjustment and feels loose, and when pushing on a bit on straights it pulls all over the road, and almost snatches to the side, and tramlines horribly over white lines. I jacked it up and nothing seems to be noticeably loose or worn, only issue is I can't check the suspension with weight on it just now, what could be most likely issue? Track rod ends? Ball joints? Could shocks be causing it?

If I go to euro car parts will they have right parts for a cup? I think track rod ends are different is this right? What about wishbones or bushes/balljoints?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[GARY LOMAS]

Check out the DOT codes on the tyres too. Old rubber does strange things

 

[imprezaworks]

Shocks maybe?

Where you based?

 

[stevec93]

Check out the DOT codes on the tyres too. Old rubber does strange things

Tyres are pretty new so not them, but I've checked pressures to make sure they weren't out but they were fine

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[stevec93]

Shocks maybe?

Where you based?

It doesn't seem to be bouncing about when you hit a bump or anything so I can't tell, but my last 172 when rear shocks went it drove horrible, but over a bump the back end bounced about

Based in Inverness

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[imprezaworks]

Its gonna pure guess work over the webz. Best to get it booked in local for someone to check it over.

 

[stevec93]

Its gonna pure guess work over the webz. Best to get it booked in local for someone to check it over.

Yeah it's impossible to guess over internet, just wondering if any common issues, and what cup parts are different and if there available from normal euro car parts

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[imprezaworks]

Take it somewhere to get it aligned would be my first port of call mate.

See which way the wheels are pointing.

 

[JB21]

Rack bushes maybe, check these before alignment cause if they're shot and you get it aligned without replacing them it will just feel out again.

 

[STEVE.M]

If I go to euro car parts will they have right parts for a cup? I think track rod ends are different is this right? What about wishbones or bushes/balljoints?
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

172 Cup wishbones, track rod ends, ball joints (12mm bolts), inner tie rods, ARB, rack & subframe are identical to a standard 182.

 

[stevec93]

Managed to get under the car and got a driver's ball joint with slight play, and gonna do outer arb bushes, then get tracking done and see how it is after that

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Mbeau]

Track rod ends would be my guess. That normally causes them to wander. What size tyres are on it?

 

[stevec93]

Track rod ends would be my guess. That normally causes them to wander. What size tyres are on it?

The track rod ends don't seem to have any movement when I tried moving them up and down with a bar, but might do them at same time before I get it aligned, can't remember tyre size but there 16's

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Mbeau]

You normally get side to side movement from the track rod ends. If you Jack it up at the front and move one of the wheels from side to side you can normally feel it. 205/50/16 tyres cause horrible handling on the road imo too.

 

[stevec93]

You normally get side to side movement from the track rod ends. If you Jack it up at the front and move one of the wheels from side to side you can normally feel it. 205/50/16 tyres cause horrible handling on the road imo too.

Did that and there was none, only bit I can find with movement is ball joint when I put a pry bar in it

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Kosy]

I've had the track rod ends replaced along with a suspension refresh last week. Starting to notice a bit of wandering on straights. It's fantastic in the bends though.

Car feels like it's pulling slightly left when running at a constant speed. If you decelerate it pulls further left and accelerating causes it to pull slightly right.

The tracking was done but may get a second opinion on that sees as the track rods were done.

 

[Mbeau]

Knocking is quite often top mounts. Worn shocks, snapped coil spring one side, rack bushes, worn hub to name a few.

When all good they normally feel really tight and responsive. They get tired with age and often benefit from a refresh.

 

[stevec93]

Knocking is quite often top mounts. Worn shocks, snapped coil spring one side, rack bushes, worn hub to name a few.

When all good they normally feel really tight and responsive. They get tired with age and often benefit from a refresh.

It's not snapped springs, and it doesn't seem to bounce about after a bump when a shock goes, rack bushes didn't move about either, top mounts could be though but was gonna do them when I lower it anyway


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[oVerboost.]

Sounds like the toe is miles out somewhere. Has it got rear camber shims? Maybe fitted wrong? If not, get it aligned and go from there.

 

[stevec93]

Sounds like the toe is miles out somewhere. Has it got rear camber shims? Maybe fitted wrong? If not, get it aligned and go from there.

Na completely standard, it's worst if you hit a join in the road or white lines, it will pull harshly to one side. Gonna do ball joint before aligning it, then go from there, plan on lowering it after that with new top mounts, then hopefully it will handle like my last one

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[imprezaworks]

Get it aligned

 

[STEVE.M]

Tyres are pretty new so not them,

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

That`s as maybe, but what are they, and are they seated correctly, and run true without a side to side wobble or any eccentricity.
A set of 4 is preferable, but each axle should have 2 matched tyres of the same type & manufacturer as a minimum requirement in order to avoid problems.

 

[Smiffyboy1990]

Inner Tie Rods. This on mine made the biggest difference when i did a Suspension refresh.

 

[stevec93]

Inner Tie Rods. This on mine made the biggest difference when i did a Suspension refresh.

What's symptoms of them? The track rod ends don't seem to have much play, but with both wheels in air if grabbing wheel at quater to 3 I can move the wheel slightly, but I thought this was just movement on the rack between the steering lock

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Smiffyboy1990]

What's symptoms of them? The track rod ends don't seem to have much play, but with both wheels in air if grabbing wheel at quater to 3 I can move the wheel slightly, but I thought this was just movement on the rack between the steering lock

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The light, vagueness steering that still needed correction every time you drove on a road that was slightly bumpy and cambered, even after fresh TRE’s, Ball Joints, new Dampers (rear)tracking and alightment.

After i fitted the Inner Tie Rods and had the tracking done again the difference was night and day, the steering had weight again, resistance and didn’t need to fight it when driving. It’s hard to describe lol.

I never did the Rack Bushes on mine as they seemed fine. Hope this helps.

When you take the Inners off, you’ll be surprised at how worn and loose they are.