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they'll be M12, it's the same on the rear brake limiter. Probably just to stop the monkeys piping it up wrong.
However, I'd be more concerned about the length of the pushrod, the 172 one looks too long for your car.
However, I'd be more concerned about the length of the pushrod, the 172 one looks too long for your car.
It seemed to fit into the servo fine, it was sat out by around 5mm and had to gently push it to seat it fully (like pushing against a weak spring)...
The big fat bit the rod comes out of is not as long as the Mk1 item, but physically the two are the same length from the bolt mounting/seal face...
What would the problem be if it was too long?
The big fat bit the rod comes out of is not as long as the Mk1 item, but physically the two are the same length from the bolt mounting/seal face...
What would the problem be if it was too long?
OK, if the overall length is the same it should be OK. Just check that they are bored to the same depth.
If it can't fully return you won't open the port from the reservoir to piston - which is bad...
Also check the seals to the reservoir, there are 2 sizes, plus they swell up so it's tricky to tell what you have.
sounds/looks as though it may be pushing the piston down the bore?
is the servo rod adjustable and/or does the piston on the one you've taken off come back any further than that? (wondering if it's stuck)
doesn't sound as though it's useable without messing about with new unions anyway
ed. can see that the body behind the flange is a different length now, apols
is the servo rod adjustable and/or does the piston on the one you've taken off come back any further than that? (wondering if it's stuck)
doesn't sound as though it's useable without messing about with new unions anyway
ed. can see that the body behind the flange is a different length now, apols
you might be able to adjust the rod in the servo, not certain on that.
Il get a few pics of them both next to each other from above tomorrow for comparison... From the face where the seal is the amount of rod showing and the length of the housing differ, but the overall length is the same.
Its hard to explain, but when you fit the cylinder to the servo you have to push the 172 one in against a spring (not hard, just gently), then do the nuts tight, whereas the Mk1 one just sits flush from the off - not sure why when they are both the same overall length.
I think it might be adjustable, im sure when I had one off the car I looked down it and saw a nut of some sort.
Andy - which part am I checking the bore of, the pushrod yeah?
Henry - new unions isnt an issue if it will work, I just dont want to change them and then the damn thing not work, lol. I wonder if there is any sort of adaptor I can get that will screw in as M12 and be a female M10 on its opening side for the brake line, hmmm.
James - Cheers for the image, but has anyone got one of it fitted in the car? Just wondering if the bigger ones are for the front, or back, or neither.
I think the Mk2's are the same pipe arrangement as the Mk1 - but am I right in saying it wont matter what lines run to what outlet anyway?
The depth of the hole yes, as that's the bit the rod in the servo will be acting on, not the outside of the pushrod. You might be able to blow through the reservoir ports in the M/C to check that they open. Try it off car to see if I'm talking B/S... Try not to lick the brake fluid, it tastes nasty :dead:
Piping should be as your car, if you think about it, there are 2 pistons , and both will want to pump the same amount of fluid, so one circuit will be the left rear brake, and the right front brake, the other will be the right rear brake and the left front brake (diagonal split). The 2 pistons are the front and the back of the master cylinder. The 2 front ports are joined together in the M/C and the 2 rears are joined likewise. It won't matter which way around they are , so the left rear brake and front right circuit can go to either the front or rear pair of M/C ports. I hope that makes sense.
Yeah, the circuits now make sense - cool.
I was just going to connect up the lines as they were, so that should be fine. Well, thats if I can find any sort of solution for the fitment M10/M12 etc.
When you say to blow through the reservoir ports, what am I checking for?
Il check the depths, but Im guessing the 172 one is shallower as it is pushing against something (spring) when fitted onto the servo...
I was just going to connect up the lines as they were, so that should be fine. Well, thats if I can find any sort of solution for the fitment M10/M12 etc.
When you say to blow through the reservoir ports, what am I checking for?
Il check the depths, but Im guessing the 172 one is shallower as it is pushing against something (spring) when fitted onto the servo...
I'm guessing a bit here, but it's what I'd do to check.
First measure everything as replicating your current clearances is your easiest route to getting it right. That said I'd still want to check it before connecting and filling with fluid.
Sort out a bit of pipe that's a snug fit into the reservoir ports. Test your M/C first on and off car. With your fingers playing the recorder on the ports you should be able to confirm that in the resting position (off and on car) that you can blow from the reservoir to the ports. Check both reservoir inlets. Once you've confirmed that the technique works try again with the 172 M/C.
You want to set it up so that the ports will always be open when you release the brake, but not so loose that you get excess free play in the pedal.
indeed, if only I'd known that when I mixed and matched master cylinders on my mini when I was 18 :dapprove:
yep, last minute thrash to finish the car for a show, baffled me for a while, but swapping back to the old M/C fixed it. I only recently binned the now 25yr old new M/C
You should be able to sort it....
can you not just get new pipes made? It'll probably be cheaper. I've got all the kit to make my own, so it's now free for me
You could get a small copper adaptor made too, I've got 10mm female unions as well as the 10 and 12mm males. Just take both master cylinders so they can check that they have the right ends.
The depth of the pushrod cavity in the Cylinder is less on the 172 item. The servo isnt adjustable either - sigh.
Ive got some M12 males, probably going to make two fresh lines (its O/S Front and one of the Rears that are the M12's - has a joiner under the bulkhead), and just swap and change if I get round to getting it sorted.
Ive done some measuring of a 172 servo against the Mk1 item and its VERY similar, I cant 100% tell until I have them properly next to each other though. All depends if the pedal side is 100% the same though I guess! We shall see...
Ive got some M12 males, probably going to make two fresh lines (its O/S Front and one of the Rears that are the M12's - has a joiner under the bulkhead), and just swap and change if I get round to getting it sorted.
Ive done some measuring of a 172 servo against the Mk1 item and its VERY similar, I cant 100% tell until I have them properly next to each other though. All depends if the pedal side is 100% the same though I guess! We shall see...
what fun, good of Renault to keep you on your toes Whilst your at it can you check whether a 172 servo will fit a Twingo Yet another bit of 172 that I shouldn't have weighed in...
bit off track, but thinking of trying some AST to mounts on the Twingo, just need to find some..
Whilst your at it can you check whether a 172 servo will fit a Twingo Yet another bit of 172 that I shouldn't have weighed in...bit off track, but thinking of trying some AST to mounts on the Twingo, just need to find some..
