172 PH 1 accelerator cable snap ... replace tips

[chris blue]

Realise there are lots threads on this, just uploading my experience with this over last few days.
Clio wouldn start first thing in morning during the week, but there was a heavy frost.

Came home that night to try fix, and accelerator pedal lying on the carpet. Realised that the cable had snapped so got a Eurocarparts one for about £16, and luckily there was an RAC bloke in their helping someone buy a battery for £90.... (Must be agony). Anyway, he told me all the cables break right by the accelerator fixing, as mine had. The ends of the cable i was purchasing didnt look the same, and he said dont bother buying one from Renault (£40) as they are the same

The lug that goes into the throttle body cog, is a lug you put on yourself at the end of the cable, and tighten a screw, unlike the original.

Right,(i thought) just replace the steel wire in the cable sheathing, and leave original sheathing in place. Sorted that tickety boo, then had to bump start the car down the hill cos it wouldnt fire. Accelerator cable fixing snapped at the pedal end. It seemed tight, and a bit high.

So- sod this. Got "at home" on RAC so called them.

Cutting a long story short, it seems all aftermarket cable sheathings for the accelerator are different in length, meaning less steel wire to adjust, making the accelerator pedal high and tight. Thats why it snapped, so he said.

He couldnt sort it other than get the accelerator to work (again) but very tight and high (Again)

He told me that rsather than replace the whole cable with sheath, a right bugger to do, cut back the outer sheathing by about 4cms to give more play, or book it into Renault, which, when I enquired they wanted £100. Sod that

So- spent a while cutting back the outer sheathing, more play in the cable, and hey presto, a bit more slack and pedal back to a more sensible position. Not sure its sorted, but seems OK. Its just shorter so a bit less play in the engine bay.

Sting in the tail............... he told me starter motor was OK, Alternator was OK, but battery is fooked. He wanted £90 to supply and fit a BOSCH, said no, gotta collect one at Eurocarparts for £45, and fit myself. Exactly same battery. Think I can just about handle that

Moral of story- dont trust aftermarket parts, and fit them in total rather than taking shortcuts. Or expect some pain.

Watching the footie now, after that for a Saturday morning

 

[bloke]

The non Renault ones I've had have all had longer inner cables than standard, think first line might not be, I'd be doubting the rac guy more than anything. How much inner was sticking though when you chucked it in the old outer?

 

[chris blue]

Probably about 3 inches, so cut it back another Inch and a half. The steel cable was the same length as OEM, as we put them side by side

Obvs couldnt compare both outer sheaths, as OEM is still routed through the car and staying in situ

Any more problems, and suppose I have no other option other than replacing the outer sheath through the engine bay. Looks a real pig tho, especially where it goes through the bulkhead into the back of the accelerator pedal, low down

We'll see. Fingers crossed

 

[bloke]

should of been long enough? did he pull the damper right back before he set the cable in the nipple on the throttle cam? got a feeling it's been set up wrong.

 

[chris blue]

Not sure- which bit is the damper. The threaded long bit which is adjustable in and out with a spring clip, or the fatter tubular thing just behind it.

Thats why i called them, assumed they were experts.
Cant see how i got so much trouble over a bleeding cable..... still (lol) all seems good atm
Just hope when hurtling down motorway, or round track, it doesnt go ping and snaps....
Just oredered a spare

 

[KitsonRis]

The non-Renault throttle cables are not as good as the genuine ones - the one I replaced on mine didn't have a rubber sheath all the way down the cable and this is what I think caused it to be "sticky". The genuine Renault one is worth that bit extra as it is covered all the way which will stop ingress of dirt and that.

Also, they are quite easy to fit just a bit fiddley. The last time I replaced mine (it was broken at the garage when they were fixing a PAS pipe, not happy) I removed the inlet manifold and that gave loads more room behind the engine to replace it. Then its a driver's front wheel off to remove a piece of arch lining to feed the cable through the bulk head.

There is a good guide kicking about iirc on how to adjust the cable tension bloke is on about with some pictures. If it's not a guide then I asked a few questions back in January for help on this, it may be in one of those instead.

 

[barnesautos]

Ph1 Throttle Cable Replacement...help and advice

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur.../&share_tid=788421&share_fid=191&share_type=t

 

[chris blue]

So. replaced the broken throttle cable, then cut back the exisiting outer sheath which hadnt been removed from the vehicle, and all seemed good. No tight accelerator, seemed to repond ok

Today went for a 60 mile drive, and after 10 miles or so, revs started sticking at around 1500, then 2000, then 3000, and u feel a right t**t in traffic as Ive seen others post

It was the rubber nipple thing slipped of the throttle body cable end that was jamming the cable return, but that didnt cure the problem, just reduced it happening so much, and max revs was only 2000 (Yippee)

So- have squirted WD both accel pedal end, and throttle body end see if that works, if not will remove the steel wire and treat lightly with copper greas, then if that dont sort it, must be the bleeding throttle body itself

Always learning, always learning............. i tell myself cursing ;-)

 

[Jamie86]

I've just fitted a ecp one and have the same high pedal issue. Safe to say this one will become and spare and geuine renault one ordered!

 

[KitsonRis]

Ph1's are notorious for sticky throttle bodies. I recently replaced mine with a lower mileage non-sticky second hand one and it was fine. A new one from Renault is £300, as the lad behind the counter was about to order one when I asked for the throttle body gasket! i was like £300 for a gasket......

 

[chris blue]

Luckily, having squirted WG at both ends of the cable where it goes into the sheath, seems almost perfect today, but have had that before.

When manually operating the throttle body, it seems to snap back pretty quick. does the butterfly not always snap back as well then?

Wow. thats pricey. will clean my throttle body a few times before i resort to another one.

 

[barnesautos]

I'm sure I've said this in another post , I removed the throttle potentiometer, two screws and lubed behind on the spindle , also I squirted 3in1 oil inside the butterfly spindle and worked it through. I'm sure I removed the butterfly itself and the shaft and lubed accordingly , but your welcome to try the lesser method first to see if that'll help you [emoji1303]
It's worked a treat so far for me , and I only fit OE parts as in the cable , as the old one was a bit stiff

 

[chris blue]

^Thanks. Have now changed the internal steel cable (As first one snapped) and lubed it, lubed with spray where the accelerator cable enters the vehicle near the pedal. Certainly better, i thought almost cured at one stage. Then the intermittent revving between 1 and 2 k returned.

So, cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner (In situ) and the return spring on the body, as the cable seems to return easy. One issue was the rubber nipple slipping down toward the cog snagging, and that made the body stick. Also secured the cable to make the sweep angle less severe.

Didnt make much difference, in fact a little worse.

Gonna have to take the body off, and completely clean methinks. Doing that because the throttle cable seems pretty smooth, and currenly assuming that its the body.

If that dont cure, then will have to replace the whole cable with outer sheathing, as it may be the steel internal wire snagging on the sheath. (As said, the cable seems to run smooth, and cant understand how the engine would go up and down in revs over a 5 min period? - so concentrating on the body for the mo.) Then it will be pedal end to look at...

All good fun, and wouldnt mind if it were summer and bright warm sunny days. But we dont get many of those over the year... shouldve thought of that

 

[Jamie86]

Have you tried a different ICV yet?

 

[chris blue]

^ whats that?

 

[barnesautos]

^ whats that?

Idle Control Valve .

Take the rubber pipe off and run the engine , rev up the engine using the throttle linkage and spray carb clean into the sucking air passage and this will clean the valve .
These valves get gummed up over time .

 

[chris blue]

Idle Control Valve .

Take the rubber pipe off and run the engine , rev up the engine using the throttle linkage and spray carb clean into the sucking air passage and this will clean the valve .
These valves get gummed up over time .

The main intake pipe and spray in there?

 

[barnesautos]

The main intake pipe and soray in there?

This one at the back

 

[chris blue]

This one at the back

View attachment 172259

Thanks. Really helpful. Be nice if they did a manual. Hey-ho

 

[barnesautos]

Thanks. Really helpful. Be nice if they did a manual. Hey-ho

Lol - All of us on here in the know are the Haynes Manual [emoji851]

 

[bloke]

Thanks. Really helpful. Be nice if they did a manual. Hey-ho

you can download one. full renault one.

 

[chris blue]

^ that the electronic one for £35?

 

[bloke]

nope, you can get it free, can't remember where i found mine, will have a look for you and see if i can find a link for it.

 

[chris blue]

nope, you can get it free, can't remember where i found mine, will have a look for you and see if i can find a link for it.

Thatd be most appreciated

 

[bloke]

damn!!! will see if i can find it.

 

[chris blue]

damn!!! will see if i can find it.

no worries if you cant

 

[bloke]

might of been this one...http://documents.mx/documents/clio-sport-manual-3286a.html

 

[chris blue]

Does someone have a piccie of the ICV location please?

 

[chris blue]

Right- found a couple photos on this site confirming where the ICV is. Disconnected the pipe with the ICV on the end. It looked all carbonned up, so gave it a good clean with carb cleaner. Still do the inmlet tract with the engine running?

 

[chris blue]

So- cleaned the ICV, and the car definitely better. However, not cured methinks. When idling at lights its sometimes as high as 1500 rpm or 1250 rpm, then drops and steadies at 1000rpm after about 2-3 seconds. When changing down (the in neutral split second) seems quite low on revs too which is good.

However, it used to idle at 750rpm, now wont get lower than 1000revs, and now and again it oscillates between 1000 and 1250 revs. And the rev counter is sometimes a tiny bit twitchy as well as the sound of the engine

Have got TB gasket on order, so will remove and clean that up real good, rather than squirt and hope with a bit of carb cleaner into the intake and trying to clean the spindle and return spring, then lubed with WD.

Therafter, running out of things to do. Another sensor somewhere?