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182 engine removal...



A

ashy_gtt

Need some help chaps if you can...

I'm on with a bit of a 182 project at the moment and I was originally just going to pull the box out and change it, but now I'm on with it I want to pull the engine out and do a few bits and pieces whilst its in bits.

The current status is the car is up on stands and I've dropped the sub frame and removed the gearbox.

Now that I want to pull the engine out from the top I need some help with a few things. I've pulled the 172 engine out of my R5 more times than I care to remember but I've never had to contend with PAS and Air-con...

Maybe you can help answer a few questions?

1) how do you usually dump the pressure out of the aircon system? Is there any way that you can recommend removing the pipe work etc?

2) ECU, I’ve read the guides on how to remove the metal cover and it just says force it with a flat head screwdriver. I've tried forcing mine but it seemed reluctant to move. Is there a knack to it or do I just need to try brute force?

3) Electrical wiring, is it just a case of unplugging it all from the sensors / starter etc and leaving it in the bay? I guess there is no easy way to unplug the loom from somewhere and lift it all out in one hit? Like you can on a R5.

That’s about it, I have read the guide by Ben_p and although its very helpful it seems to be a bit vague on these questions!

Cheers Chaps :)

Ashy.
 
  172 Race Car
1, Should have it de gassed properly really as you are not ment to vent it to atmosphere. It could already be empty tho. remove one of the black caps from the pipes and push the vlave down with a screw driver. (like a tyre valve) Watch your eyes, this will tell you if there is any gas in there.

Once u have it de-gassed (professionaly) or if it is already out of gas its just a case of unbolting the pipes from the condensor (radiator thing) and compresor (pump thing)

2, needs brute force. actually unbolted the bracket from the body on mine to make it easier

3,Not sure if there is a main engine loom plug. I used to work in dealers and Ford's have them, Renault probably not. Might be an idea to mark up all the plugs with what they do/where they go (small white sticky lable on the loom near the plug) so u know where they go back.



pas is easy there is a pipe connection behind the pas pump. then the pas line is bolted to the block and then runs over the gearbox (im sure you can see this if the box is already out)
 
Last edited:
  172 Race Car
In this pic you can see the a/c compressor with pipes removed...



IMAGE_506.jpg
 
A

ashy_gtt

Cheers Burp,

The aircon system is still gassed, I tested it in the way that you mention and there is gas in there! THeres no way I can get it de-gassed so I guess I'm going to have to ignore the envionmental issues and vent it to atmos :S I think the gas they use is now o-zone friendly not like the R43 that they used to use!

Brute force it is then... I have removed it from the bracket but its still resisting!

Yeah cant see a main plug, I'll have to disconnect each sensor and leave it in the bay.

Guess I'm just trying to cut corners by leaving as much as I can on the engine! Its all got to come off so I might aswell bite the bullet and strip it down before removing it.
 
  172 Race Car
R134a they use now. R12 was the nasty stuff. Mine was already empty so dint have a problem. Would be a shame tho if u had an accident and it all escaped. ;)
 

cg172

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172FF
I still get jealous every time I drive past your work and see the back of the V... :(

Can I have a go please? I'm sure driving mine on sha**ed dampers for 6 months has given me the "skillz" to handle it. ;)
 
  172 Race Car
pas pic for you......


1 is the line connection, just below the pressure switch

2 is where its bolted iirc, you might not have to touch this


IMAGE_511-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
  Megane dci 130
Get the aircon profesionally removed by a machine or just pull a pipe off and run but bare in mind you will have to get it gassed by a proffesional once back together.

I find if you lever the cover up with a lever bar with a bot of wood on the battery it will come off, might be worth a go.

Just unplug the dash to engine loom and as for the sensors, just put the ecu on the engine and lift the whole lot out with the loom still on. It will take ages to unplug it all!
 
A

ashy_gtt

Just unplug the dash to engine loom and as for the sensors, just put the ecu on the engine and lift the whole lot out with the loom still on. It will take ages to unplug it all!

Where is the plug? I've traced the wires back from the ECU into the engine bay fuse box, there is a white plug in the fuse box but there are more wires that run into the inner wing and through the bulkhead.

Cheers Ashy.
 
A

ashy_gtt

I still get jealous every time I drive past your work and see the back of the V... :(

Can I have a go please? I'm sure driving mine on sha**ed dampers for 6 months has given me the "skillz" to handle it. ;)

LOL yeah no problem ;)

You may have noticed its on the other side of the road now? we've bought Exact machining and I'm working in there now.
 
A

ashy_gtt

Just thought i'd update the thread for the benifit of others who may search on this in the future.

The best way I found to answer my above questions were:

1) how do you usually dump the pressure out of the aircon system? Is there any way that you can recommend removing the pipe work etc?


There is a small pressure switch on the RHS of the aircon rad (when looking from in front of the car) if you crack this off it can be removed with out losing any pressure. When its off remove the small O-Ring and screw it back on, as it starts to nip up it will open the valve and leak refrigerant out. Go make a cuppa whilst this de-pressurises the system and jobs a goodun.

I removed the pipes all the way back from the pump to the bulkhead connector, they cam off pretty easily.

2) ECU, I’ve read the guides on how to remove the metal cover and it just says force it with a flat head screwdriver. I've tried forcing mine but it seemed reluctant to move. Is there a knack to it or do I just need to try brute force?

I didn't bother removing the ECU in the end, see below.

3) Electrical wiring, is it just a case of unplugging it all from the sensors / starter etc and leaving it in the bay? I guess there is no easy way to unplug the loom from somewhere and lift it all out in one hit? Like you can on a R5.

You can unplug the loom so it stays on the engine, meaning when you re-fit the engine its all plug and play. remove the fuse box from the RHS of the engine, again 2 M6 nuts hold it in on the RHS of the engine bay.

with this lose you can get at the relays and the white multiplug. Disconnect the miltiplug. there is a section of fuse box with some massive fuses in, remove this from the plastic casing. pop the fuses out. You will see that some of the connectors of that section of the fuse box are detatchable, disconnect all the coloured fuse holders from the black plastic fuse block.

Thats it, the whole loom including the ECU will now lift out still connected to the engine :) Remember to remove the plug from the power steering rack and the lambda probe too!


 
  Clio's
as for the air con i just pulled the pipes off but as sheperdspie says you will need to run lol, i s**t myself when i did it
 
  RB 182 & Lotus Evora
is there no way to keep you aircon gas when removing the engine? as my engine will be coming out on the 26th and dont want to loose my climate control :(
 
  Megane dci 130
Because you have broken the system open , to regass you need to put a vacum in the system to take out any moisture that has got in. Then charge it with the right amout of gas. Also special oil has to be added to Lube the seals and the compressor. A good pointer to stop moisture getting into the sytem is to seal off the pipes you have disconnected with plastic bags and a rubber band.

Hope this helps :)
 
  172 Race Car
^ spot on.


If the system is left open for too long, then iirc they recomend replacing the receiver/drier. it has moisture absorbing stuff in it
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
at the cost of 70 quid etc whatever it is? Id rather there be away around it :)

I normally remove the AC and PAS pumps from the engine and lift it out around the pump units. Saves losing system integrity and is pretty easy to do. Got one in the workshop like this now pending a new diff going in the box tomorrow.
M
ick
 


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