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Trophy #267
So it does....
Valeo site is a bit of a pain to find your way around but is worth looking
General:
EAN
3276424393029
Status
Normal
Packing Unit
1
Trade Numbers
A13VI259, A13VI300
Criteria:
Engine Code
F4R.7.38
New Part
Voltage [V]
14
Alternator Charge Current [A]
110
Fastening Type
Double Pivot
Lever
Position / Degree
L 25
Rotation Direction
Clockwise rotation
Pulleys
with belt pulley
Number of Ribs
6
Terminal/Clamp
With revcounter coupling
Supplementary Article/Supplementary Info
with integrated regulator
That is bang on spec for the part# on the sticker.
For ref: Valeo part numbers
436748 Refurb
439302 New
Auth Dealers are GSF and Partco both are very close to my work in Derby.
GSF want 136+vat for refurb
Partco (Canal St) want £110+Vat for refurb
For ref Renault want £180 !
Also helps when I know a good friend who works for the partco group so can also get a discount
TY Mr Gray !!
Valeo site is a bit of a pain to find your way around but is worth looking
EAN
Packing Unit
Trade Numbers
Criteria:
Engine Code
New Part
Voltage [V]
Alternator Charge Current [A]
Fastening Type
Lever
Rotation Direction
Pulleys
Number of Ribs
Terminal/Clamp
Supplementary Article/Supplementary Info
That is bang on spec for the part# on the sticker.
For ref: Valeo part numbers
436748 Refurb
439302 New
Auth Dealers are GSF and Partco both are very close to my work in Derby.
GSF want 136+vat for refurb
Partco (Canal St) want £110+Vat for refurb
For ref Renault want £180 !
Also helps when I know a good friend who works for the partco group so can also get a discount
TY Mr Gray !!
Trophy #267
true, altho I think the derby branch apply 'club' prices to anyone who walks in the door as they did when I ordered some stuff previously from them.
£130 inc Vat with a poss discount from partco is good,
£160 inc Vat which may inc discount from GSF
both for refurb units on an exchange basis.
Definitely cheaper than I have been quoted from elsewhere mind !
http://outcat-cs.tecdoc.net/ows/en/...8703F9901E.ows_cs2.srv?view=VIndexFramesetJsp
valeo main part locator site for others who may want it
£130 inc Vat with a poss discount from partco is good,
£160 inc Vat which may inc discount from GSF
both for refurb units on an exchange basis.
Definitely cheaper than I have been quoted from elsewhere mind !
http://outcat-cs.tecdoc.net/ows/en/...8703F9901E.ows_cs2.srv?view=VIndexFramesetJsp
valeo main part locator site for others who may want it
ITB'd MK1
avoid XL refurb alternators. They dont have a very long lifespan in my experience
jenic
ClioSport Club Member
Told you to buy new
My refurbished 172 alternator lasted 10 months!
I think mine was a refurb, ben had it 9 months before i got it. I think it was from the stealers though.
Trophy #267
ok, my 'should have listened to Fred' badge is at the ready....
Only upside is car is not my daily runner as I have the bonus of company car so it will be my time and knuckles when/if it does fail early.
Shall be paying you a visit soon Fred for some ds2500 and lines when my bonus is in
Only upside is car is not my daily runner as I have the bonus of company car so it will be my time and knuckles when/if it does fail early.
Shall be paying you a visit soon Fred for some ds2500 and lines when my bonus is in
jenic
ClioSport Club Member
I'm confused now, my dialogys says over £300 + vat
your dialogys isn't upto date then, from a valeo dealer (motorfactor) they're £200, same from renault, renault have slashed their prices to compete a bit with ECP/GSF etc (to the trade anyway)
ph2 172
Really ? Maybe I've just been unlucky with new ones then. I don't doubt Fred knows what he's talking about, but my personal experience of new alternators from Renault has lead me to believe they are not much better than cheap refurbs.
My alternator has been replaced 3 times, The first two times were genuine new items from Renault.
Original Alt lasted 23k, failed with short
Alt 2 lasted all of 200 miles, Collapsed bearings - replaced by Renault under parts warranty.
Alt 3 lasted 18K, failed regulator
at this point I thought sod it, I'm not putting another new one in, and had the unit rebuilt at a local auto electricians for 75+vat. It's been in for 12k so far.
Trophy #267
oh the joys of messing about with a clio....
Collected part, looked ok so got jubilee clip to sort tensioner.
Started removing bumper, which was fine till the bolt on the nearside arch wouldnt play, turns out it had a nyloc nut on it instead of the self tapping clip the other side had - great.
Also had to remove a fair few splitter screws as my T had a new splitter and had some 'extra' screws in it which were also attached to the liner.
More shouting and swearing and the bumper was off.
Now saying you can use a jubilee clip to compress the tensioner is harder than u think and not really advised, but its the best u can do if you dont have the roper tool.
I advise using something to pack the gap by either end of the tensioner to prevent the jubilee clip from slipping at either end. It works tho.
With the tensioner slackened, i set about removing the alternator and found the 2 x 13mm sockets needed to do the front bolt are not upto scratch ( you really need slim sockets as you have NO ROOM WHATSOEVER)
I had to call in a favour from a friend and that sorted the tools to remove the bolt. On inspection it also was apparent that no 2nd bolt was present holding the back of the altenator in place. Can anyone confirm there should be 2 x bolts and its length if so as it may not be needed as the rear of the alternator isnt going anywhere?
That said, it is a pig to actually get the sodding thing out - it can be done but again not easy.
Fitting the replacement was ok, altho my jubilee clip had slipped at the top requiring LOT OF MESSING hence why the proper tool would save no end of grief.
Only after the new one was fitted and tensioner restored (and my mate was ready to leave with his tools) did i notice the new alternator had its connections 180 degrees different to the one which came out. This wouldnt be an issue bar the fact that the +ve bolt was exactly in line with the metal air con pipe and touching.
So im currently left with a car with the wrong alternator on and without the correct tools to remove it (freind begging again tomorrow methinks)
Someone at either unipart ot valeo will be getting a snotty phone call monday !
Needless to say I understand entirely why fred uses the pukka new ones if they prevent this amount of cocking about - i fully expect much abuse following this post !
I would like to confirm tho if the a correctly fitted alternatos has 2 bolts (1 short, 1 long)
Rob
Collected part, looked ok so got jubilee clip to sort tensioner.
Started removing bumper, which was fine till the bolt on the nearside arch wouldnt play, turns out it had a nyloc nut on it instead of the self tapping clip the other side had - great.
Also had to remove a fair few splitter screws as my T had a new splitter and had some 'extra' screws in it which were also attached to the liner.
More shouting and swearing and the bumper was off.
Now saying you can use a jubilee clip to compress the tensioner is harder than u think and not really advised, but its the best u can do if you dont have the roper tool.
I advise using something to pack the gap by either end of the tensioner to prevent the jubilee clip from slipping at either end. It works tho.
With the tensioner slackened, i set about removing the alternator and found the 2 x 13mm sockets needed to do the front bolt are not upto scratch ( you really need slim sockets as you have NO ROOM WHATSOEVER)
I had to call in a favour from a friend and that sorted the tools to remove the bolt. On inspection it also was apparent that no 2nd bolt was present holding the back of the altenator in place. Can anyone confirm there should be 2 x bolts and its length if so as it may not be needed as the rear of the alternator isnt going anywhere?
That said, it is a pig to actually get the sodding thing out - it can be done but again not easy.
Fitting the replacement was ok, altho my jubilee clip had slipped at the top requiring LOT OF MESSING hence why the proper tool would save no end of grief.
Only after the new one was fitted and tensioner restored (and my mate was ready to leave with his tools) did i notice the new alternator had its connections 180 degrees different to the one which came out. This wouldnt be an issue bar the fact that the +ve bolt was exactly in line with the metal air con pipe and touching.
So im currently left with a car with the wrong alternator on and without the correct tools to remove it (freind begging again tomorrow methinks)
Someone at either unipart ot valeo will be getting a snotty phone call monday !
Needless to say I understand entirely why fred uses the pukka new ones if they prevent this amount of cocking about - i fully expect much abuse following this post !
I would like to confirm tho if the a correctly fitted alternatos has 2 bolts (1 short, 1 long)
Rob
Trophy #267
No. I gave them the Valeo part # from page 1 of this thread which I found by browsing the valeo website for clio 2, 2l sport, cb0-2. Had options of 110, 95 and 75 A versions in new and refurb so opted for the 110 Refurb. New unit matched exactly the A13VI300 number, the remanufactured one is a different number but still says identical info and matching vehicles which is why I ordered it.
Trophy #267
yeah yeah yeah............
Woke up in a better mood today, and having visited costco for a new socket set set about removing the 'wrong' one.
Needless to say with the correct tools it helps no end. 3 hrs work which was yesterday took 20 mins today.
However, my woes areonly to do with doing a job the pikey way and finding that the part which i correctly ordered is wrong.
Saying that some git has been playing and misplaced the bolt anyway !
Fred, or anyone with correct knowledge, let me know the exact size + length of the longer bolt.
I assume it must be something like M16x130 or similar as it should pass through both holes at the back but looking at the thread on the old one it looks about the same size as the front bolt - you sure its M16?
On the upside I now have a decent socket set + spanners !
Woke up in a better mood today, and having visited costco for a new socket set set about removing the 'wrong' one.
Needless to say with the correct tools it helps no end. 3 hrs work which was yesterday took 20 mins today.
However, my woes areonly to do with doing a job the pikey way and finding that the part which i correctly ordered is wrong.
Saying that some git has been playing and misplaced the bolt anyway !
Fred, or anyone with correct knowledge, let me know the exact size + length of the longer bolt.
I assume it must be something like M16x130 or similar as it should pass through both holes at the back but looking at the thread on the old one it looks about the same size as the front bolt - you sure its M16?
On the upside I now have a decent socket set + spanners !
Last edited:
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