2014 Clio RS remove gearbox problem

[GtirHil]

I bought a lower mileage DCT for my 2014 because I was getting clutch slipping errors. And a new reconditioned ECM from China.

So now I'm swapping the trannies and replacing the ECM. I'm following the gearbox only route and leaving the engine in the car.

Or AM I?

I've finally got down to the point where the gearbox is separated from the engine, Everything undone including the hideous bolt above the started motor. Big crack all around the tranny/engine join. And that's it!

I can't get the engine and gearbox far apart enough to drop the gearbox alone. The transmission mount, the vertical spike, won't clear the subframe.

Can i remove the spike? It does have a 15 mm hex.

Do I let the engine droop more so that the spike mount on the gearbox will clear the sub-member?

Any thoughts gratefully appreciated. I wouldn't ask this question except that there appears to be nothing specific out there that covers this. I'm now wondering whether unlike other Clio 4s, I do have to drop the engine as well!

Thanks!

 

[Adey.]

I hope you are replacing the clutch pack and rear main seal too? only asking as you haven't mentioned it.

I've not removed it myself but I would be removing the "spike" from the gearbox. You may also need to lower the subframe to have enough clearance for the engine to droop.

Where are you doing the job? if I took this on at home, I would have been tempted to remove the whole engine and box so I had better access to everything

 

[GtirHil]

The old gearbox came with younger clutch packs. A new set costs about $3000 Australian and I think requires specialist tools to install. So I was swapping the younger tranny and clutch packs as a unit. I hadn't thought about a rear main seal. I'll have a look while I'm in there.

I was taking out just the gear box because it is supposed to take only about half the time. And the less that I disturb in there, the better. But now I'm wondering whether that is only true for the non-DCT models.

I suppose that I didn't know if the spike CAN be removed without specialised equipment.

 

[GtirHil]

Well, I took the upright spike transmission mount off and that gave me more play. However the transmission needs to come much further back to clear the gubbins on the back of the engine, and it is fouled for a straight lateral movement by the final drive housing against the subframe. I considered rotating it but then the end of the transmission comes up against the main front frame.

In short I have decided that it seems to be impossible to remove the DCT box with the engine in the car. The Clio 4 Youtubes showing otherwise did not have a DCT box.

I will be very happy to hear that I am an idiot and that it is easy. There is a trick ...

In the meantime my options seem be :
1) Give up swapping the tranny and just replace the ECM. And put it all back together.
2) As above but swap the two clutch servos as well.
3) Loosely reattach the tranny to the engine and take the whole thing out. Then swap the tranny and replay in reverse. I've already drained the coolant but I think that I'm going to have trouble saving the aircon fill.

I'm leaning to option 2. Inspecting the clutch servos as I go.

Rats.

 

[Adey.]

Option 3, you are already in deep, get the whole lot out on the floor

 

[GtirHil]

You are probably right. I should just go whole hog.

But I've taken out a lot of engines over the years and I'm enjoying it less, not more. I suppose that the only connections left are the exhaust and fuel supply. And intercooler. And some empty radiator hoses. I'll see how much play is available in the A/C hoses. Currently 35 degrees out there so retaining A/C is a priority.

I'll sleep on it