A couple of guides please? :)

[Ethan1996]

Hey,

Was wondering if any of you have a Renault manual or can guide me through a couple of jobs on my Mk3 1.2 Clio.

Firstly I want to flush/change the coolant, as it doesn't look like its ever been changed. I've done a few jobs to the car so know some basics but detail would be useful

Secondly I want to change the aux belt, is this difficult so a garage job or? The cambelt was changed last year but I don't think the aux belt was.

Thirdly I want to change the brake discs, and check the rear brakes (drums) are these hard jobs? I changed the pads a while ago on the front but never got round to the discs.

Thanks

 

[Loz H]

I bought a haynes for mine. Helped me out with afew things i needed to do, so its payed for itself in saving me garage labour!

 

[Chapperz]

All these guides already exist.

I used one on here to do my discs and I've seen a cambelt/aux belt guide.

Flushing the coolant is just as simple as taking the cap of reservoir, disconnecting the lower rad house letting it all drain out and then reconnect and fill to max. Let car run for a few mins till fluid has been taken in and then carefully with a towel open and refill to max again.

 

[Ethan1996]

All these guides already exist.

I used one on here to do my discs and I've seen a cambelt/aux belt guide.

Flushing the coolant is just as simple as taking the cap of reservoir, disconnecting the lower rad house letting it all drain out and then reconnect and fill to max. Let car run for a few mins till fluid has been taken in and then carefully with a towel open and refill to max again.

Swear you have to use the garden hose for part of it?

 

[guysy]

You can flush the system with fresh water if wanted so yeah garden hose, I didnt bother.

 

[Ethan1996]

You can flush the system with fresh water if wanted so yeah garden hose, I didnt bother.

Ah okay thanks, also when do you know if the discs need replacing? Mines done 41K and they've never been done as far as I know. They don't look too bad but is there any telltale signs you can see when looking at the discs?

I get how to do the coolant I think How do you bleed the system? Anyone know where the bleed screws are? Is there only one on the engine or more in the system elsewhere?

 

[Budgie]

[QUO TE=Chapperz;10380476]All these guides already exist.

I used one on here to do my discs and I've seen a cambelt/aux belt guide.

Flushing the coolant is just as simple as taking the cap of reservoir, disconnecting the lower rad house letting it all drain out and then reconnect and fill to max. Let car run for a few mins till fluid has been taken in and then carefully with a towel open and refill to max again.[/QUOTE]


Doing it this way, there will still be a few litres of old coolant in the engine block.

I always let air through the thermostat and it'll drop the coolant out of the block through the lower rad hose for a full drain.

No need to hose it through, just full with fresh coolant.

 

[Budgie]

Ah okay thanks, also when do you know if the discs need replacing? Mines done 41K and they've never been done as far as I know. They don't look too bad but is there any telltale signs you can see when looking at the discs?

I get how to do the coolant I think How do you bleed the system? Anyone know where the bleed screws are? Is there only one on the engine or more in the system elsewhere?

Discs- check the edges of the pad mating face for a lip. If there's a decent sized lip, get them changed.

 

[Ethan1996]

So basically from beginning to end, remove the undertray, undo lower radiator hose and put into bucket. Then wait for coolant to drain, (this is the bit i'm curious about), then once its drained start filling with new coolant until expansion bottles close to max, then undo the bleed screw which is on the right hand side of the engine near the top I think, then wait for coolant to come out here, do up the screw and then fill up the coolant to max.

Ah okay discs seem an easy enough job. Thanks Budgie

 

[Budgie]

Undertray off.

Disconnect lower rad hose into a bucket.

Remove reservoir cap.

Disconnect thermostat. Could probably remove bleed screw to do same job.

Refit lower rad hose once drained.

Out thermostat back on. Fill up, with bleed screw out. Wait for coolant to come out of bleed screw. Tighten.

Top up to max. Done.

 

[Ethan1996]

Undertray off.

Disconnect lower rad hose into a bucket.

Remove reservoir cap.

Disconnect thermostat. Could probably remove bleed screw to do same job.

Refit lower rad hose once drained.

Out thermostat back on. Fill up, with bleed screw out. Wait for coolant to come out of bleed screw. Tighten.

Top up to max. Done.

Thanks for that Bleed screw I think sounds easier than thermostat. Would you bother flushing it? Its using original coolant as far as I know, most of the receipts just say "service", useful!

 

[Fletcher]

I would also change the thermostat.

 

[Ethan1996]

I would also change the thermostat.

First I've heard about doing that, is it needed?

 

[guysy]

Well unless your already having problems its not a necessity, its just another part that whilst your doing that job you could replace to future proof it going wrong.

If you dont replace the stat Its recommended you get a new rubber gasket seal as obviously these perish over time and also you don't want to complete the coolant flush then have a leak a few months down the line.

Brake discs - Look at the condition as said, if they have a nasty lip on the edge where the brake pads have worn them down it might be time for a change. Also if you spin the disc round at some point on the edge there is usually a wear indicator that's like a flat spot .

 

[Fletcher]

As above. You don't to change the thermostat.

I just changed my coolant hoses and also changed the T-stat as they don't last that long ( my temp gauge sat just under the middle) And for the sake of £20 it was worth while doing all together.

 

[Ethan1996]

As above. You don't to change the thermostat.

I just changed my coolant hoses and also changed the T-stat as they don't last that long ( my temp gauge sat just under the middle) And for the sake of £20 it was worth while doing all together.

My temp gauge is just under the middle too?

 

[Ethan1996]

Edit no I think it goes at middle the whole time to be honest. Never really noticed the temp going up and down. If its worth changing I will do, to save a job further down the line. Is it best to use genuine Renault for £26 or one from ECP made by Vernet for £11? Then I need some kind of sealant to seal the thermostat? Even though it has a rubber seal included or? Also one final question Brembo or Pagid discs? Around £15 difference between them so can't decide
Fletcher

 

[Fletcher]

Edit no I think it goes at middle the whole time to be honest. Never really noticed the temp going up and down. If its worth changing I will do, to save a job further down the line. Is it best to use genuine Renault for £26 or one from ECP made by Vernet for £11? Then I need some kind of sealant to seal the thermostat? Even though it has a rubber seal included or? Also one final question Brembo or Pagid discs? Around £15 difference between them so can't decide
@Fletcher

If the temp gauge sits on the middle line then you could leave it. You will probably need a new rubber o seal for it though, you don't need sealant mate. I have heard issues of ECP thermostats not fitting properly so would personally only replace with a OEM T-stat

Untitled by fletcher10, on Flickr

Adam @ Wolverhampton Renault sells T-stats for £21

 

[Matt38]

well holy crap...what a nightmare job that was..but got it done and fitted the ktec induction kit. Only problem is I had to remove the coolant header tank and now it won't clip back in place..seem to have lost a clip or grommet that holds the centre of it place