Any alternative to the engine dynamics turbo downpipe?

[incy-spider]

As per title, just wondering if there is a stronger downpipe kit around before I either make my own, re-weld or buy the 3rd downpipe from ED!


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[colesy]

I got mine re-welded, didn’t want to buy another for it to crack again

 

[incy-spider]

I got mine re-welded, didn’t want to buy another for it to crack again

Yeah, I’ve done that on the Old version, they never seem to last!


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[R3k1355]

Can you not get a custom one made up?

 

[npt]

You may need to fit an additional dog bone type mount on the forward side if running big power, is it cracked or been torn apart on the weld haz? It may just need more weld with a bigger cap or the steel is to thin, hard to say without seeing one tbh....you could fit a custom made job, or brace the one you have, issue is if there is too much movement it will crack again come time only in a different area

 

[dawgtired]

I fitted a small flexi joint on the cat pipe, near the joint between the down pipe.
It took the stress out of the system that end.

 

[dann2707]

As per title, just wondering if there is a stronger downpipe kit around before I either make my own, re-weld or buy the 3rd downpipe from ED!


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Where abouts do they crack?

 

[incy-spider]

Guys, no movement.. that’s all sorted, it’s braced, has flexis etc..

I just think they are a bit poo!

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[colesy]

Same place mine went, the guy who welded mine said that plate on them is pointless and took it off, time will tell to see if he’s right.

 

[incy-spider]

Yeah, it’s basically too rigid I think, which is why it cracks when expanding! May do the same


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[dann2707]

When you get it welded make sure it's fully back purged when tig welded.

When you tig stainless the inside of the weld "sugars" and basically ends up cracking overtime. In order to overcome this youhave the full the inside with argon which shields it from the atmosphere so the outside then looks identical to the inside and you have a strong solid weld.

I'll be honest mate and I think your manifold will crack as it has been welded far far too hot

 

[Louis]

Same place mine went, the guy who welded mine said that plate on them is pointless and took it off, time will tell to see if he’s right. View attachment 1523519

My scorpion has gone in a similar position without a brace. I was going to laser cut one and fit it, think it's a mistake?

 

[colesy]

My scorpion has gone in a similar position without a brace. I was going to laser cut one and fit it, think it's a mistake?

As incy said I think with that brace they could be too rigid. That being said I’ve put full faith in the opinion of the guy that welded it up for me

 

[incy-spider]

When you get it welded make sure it's fully back purged when tig welded.

When you tig stainless the inside of the weld "sugars" and basically ends up cracking overtime. In order to overcome this youhave the full the inside with argon which shields it from the atmosphere so the outside then looks identical to the inside and you have a strong solid weld.

I'll be honest mate and I think your manifold will crack as it has been welded far far too hot

The original welds don’t look to have been purged IMO quite clearly see it sugared further down.

Could also be the fact the turbo liked coming loose so may have put a tad more strain on it, even though it didn’t ever actually move.

What makes you say that my manifold has been welded too hot? Bear in mind it’s that schedule pipe work that is very thick walled [emoji106]


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[dann2707]

The original welds don’t look to have been purged IMO quite clearly see it sugared further down.

Could also be the fact the turbo liked coming loose so may have put a tad more strain on it, even though it didn’t ever actually move.

What makes you say that my manifold has been welded too hot? Bear in mind it’s that schedule pipe work that is very thick walled [emoji106]


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So if you look where the weld is, it's dark and colourless.

For a good, strong stainless weld it needs to be a straw or silver colour. Any dullness is where the alloying metals have been burnt out where its been welded for too long.

For stainless you need to have absolutely zero gaps in the bits you are welding, if you have gaps in the metal you spend more time trying to fill the holes/gaps.

More time = more heat = burning of the metal.

Can see what I'm talking about here mate. I don't want to be negative and sound harsh mate but I've seen it countless amounts of time. Same with the TRUST manifolds on Facebook. They have a very similar phenomena going on.

 

[incy-spider]

So if you look where the weld is, it's dark and colourless.

For a good, strong stainless weld it needs to be a straw or silver colour. Any dullness is where the alloying metals have been burnt out where its been welded for too long.

For stainless you need to have absolutely zero gaps in the bits you are welding, if you have gaps in the metal you spend more time trying to fill the holes/gaps.

More time = more heat = burning of the metal.

Can see what I'm talking about here mate. I don't want to be negative and sound harsh mate but I've seen it countless amounts of time. Same with the TRUST manifolds on Facebook. They have a very similar phenomena going on.

View attachment 1523615View attachment 1523616

I’ll make him do it again [emoji23][emoji23] cheers mate


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[dann2707]

I’ll make him do it again [emoji23][emoji23] cheers mate


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Haha

The colours you want on stainless should be like this. This would be a sound weld in terms of strength (if it was back purged too)

This is an example of very hot weld. See how it's dull and grey. That would 100% rust, the strength would be very very bad and it would be prone to cracking, especially as it is significantly undercut.

The usual giveaway is the huge heat affected zone ether side of the weld, if its massive you've been on it too long.

 

[Krarl]

Welding nonce 👀 😂

 

[-Jamie-]

Trust manifolds are complete junk [emoji23]

Plus the guy that sells them is an arrogant t**t

 

[Krarl]

Guys, no movement.. that’s all sorted, it’s braced, has flexis etc..

I just think they are a bit poo!

View attachment 1523515
View attachment 1523516
View attachment 1523517
View attachment 1523518


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It's cracked along that gusset because it has no room for expansion. The outer edge of that gusset will still be reasonably cool whereas the rest of the downpipe will be roasting hot and want to expand at it's own rate

It needs mounting to the back of the engine if anything, just to stop the turbo rattling itself loose

 

[incy-spider]

It's cracked along that gusset because it has no room for expansion. The outer edge of that gusset will still be reasonably cool whereas the rest of the downpipe will be roasting hot and want to expand at it's own rate

It needs mounting to the back of the engine if anything, just to stop the turbo rattling itself loose

Which it is, I think illl be fitting an expansion joint in if I modify this one.. I have the joint so may as well!

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[Krarl]

Which it is, I think illl be fitting an expansion joint in if I modify this one.. I have the joint so may as well! View attachment 1523626


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Aye a bellow like that should stop most of the harshness slackening the nuts off

A mate of mine ended up just tacking all his manifold nuts and turbo nuts because he was swapping them out or tightening them every week on his high boost 172😂

 

[Yarp]

I’m using a TRW one. No idea if it’ll last any longer than the other ones but seems well enough made. Not v-band though

 

[incy-spider]

Aye a bellow like that should stop most of the harshness slackening the nuts off

A mate of mine ended up just tacking all his manifold nuts and turbo nuts because he was swapping them out or tightening them every week on his high boost 172[emoji23]

Haha, yep it’s a f**king nightmare, have been pissing around with those 4 b*****d studs and nuts for 7 years!! I have a vband manifold made up now (or did have until Dan poopoo’d it) [emoji23][emoji23] should be a game changer..


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[incy-spider]

I’m using a TRW one. No idea if it’ll last any longer than the other ones but seems well enough made. Not v-band though

View attachment 1523638

Looks like they built the 5 bolt flange into the pipe, do they produce these?


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[Yarp]

Looks like they built the 5 bolt flange into the pipe, do they produce these?


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yeah, they make them in house. The flange is welded directly onto it

 

[incy-spider]

Oh yeah, I see...

Also saw they do a manifold..

Not that I need that but interesting


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[Yarp]

View attachment 1523646
Oh yeah, I see...

Also saw they do a manifold.. View attachment 1523647

Not that I need that but interesting


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Yeah, he tried to sell me that too but I’d already sourced one. He did say with the studs being fixed into the flange it makes it easier to use locking nuts to stop them coming loose. Depending on how mine goes I could end up with one at some point!

Lead time was quite long on it. Think it was around 8 weeks but he did warn me they weren’t in stock when I ordered. They then hit a national lockdown in Portugal, then their summer holiday and then shipping took a week so there were plenty of valid excuses.

Quality seems decent. The steel is good, welds are neat and even inside/out. The flange is perfectly flat too so they’ve managed not to get it too hot and warp it which is always good. Fit was spot on too. He did say it might sit slightly too close to the PAS as it’s supposed to be used with their manifold that sits the turbo slightly further towards the passenger side to free up a bit more room but it’s fine. Cant complain for the money compared to what getting one made by someone in the UK was going to cost. Only time will tell!