Best heavy duty battery for Clio?

[matt|H]

Looking to get some more ICE in the clio soon but my battery light is on constantly as it is so I will be upgrading the "big 3" and putting a heavy duty battery in... only prob is I don't know which is best.

Total power will be about 2600W peak/800W RMS and I don't want to upgrade the alternator (but if you could recommend one I may do).

Thanks for any help.

 

[DIDITNO]

ither go for the biggest diesel battery you can physically fit under your bonnet. that or a yellow top ultima

 

[matt|H]

^ Can anyone recommend a model that will fit in without modification?

Could I buy one of these from somewhere like Halfords or would I need to go to a car audio specialist/order online?

 

[agithegreat]

Off 800wrms you shouldnt need too much of an upgrade.
Yeh do TB3 and get an optima yellow top. You find these at halfrods though!
and they do a size which will fit underbonnet!
No need for an uprased alt, at all with that current draw!

 

[BIFCAIDS]

www.knightbatteries.co.uk

 

[matt|H]

www.knightbatteries.co.uk

TBH I don't know what I'm looking for lol.

 

[Struggler]

what kind of budget are you looking at??

what wiring do you currently have,

optima yellow tops are epic batterys, but they come at a price,
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/1855.html
also look at upgrading your alternator, TB3 will only make a little difference on the standard alternator,
if you plan on having some headturning audio, your standard alternator wouldnt last

also, if you battery light is on, i dont think its down to your ICE,
have 1634wrms worth of amplifiers, (obviously theyre not running at this power)
and my battery light is never on, i have an upgraded battery,

have you added an extra battery earth??
first thing to do to optimise your system

 

[wallop]

Battery 'CHARGE' light illuminated indicates ALTERNATOR fault....

 

[BIFCAIDS]

i had this in my 106

http://www.knightbatteries.com/popup.cfm?p_n=82043&p_i=82043

i know the fella ya see

 

[matt|H]

Yellow top is pricey probably the top of my budget.. would be great if there was something for less maybe 100-150.

I've not changed any of the original cables it's all standard under the bonnet apart from the power cable.

Wallop - This light has been on since I plugged the amp in about 5 months ago (as in when I turned it all on for the first time to test it) and only appears when the engine is not running.

I'd like to have a go at running the two amps off standard battery with TB3 uprated.. how would I know if the system is struggling? Checking voltages?

 

[Struggler]

lol they battery light is always on while the engine is not running,

i mean what size power cable is your system wired with??
when you say standard battery, do you mean the one that came in the car,
or just one battery in the standard wiring??

i have 2 amps off my one battery, works fine with 0awg wiring and standard alternator

voltages are a good way of telling,
but ive heard that the sum of your rms power, divided by 12, should be lower than the cranking power of the battery,

im not sure if this is true, maybe wallop could shed some light on it,

also, perhaps look around, you may find a yellowtop for 150 on another site.

 

[Struggler]

also, no matter what you do end up doing,
definatley add a cable, the same size as your power cable,

from the battery -ve to the chassis

 

[matt|H]

2AWG.. thanks for the info.

 

[wallop]

Wallop - This light has been on since I plugged the amp in about 5 months ago (as in when I turned it all on for the first time to test it) and only appears when the engine is not running.

Priceless, actually made me chuckle....

voltages are a good way of telling,
but ive heard that the sum of your rms power, divided by 12, should be lower than the cranking power of the battery,

Voltage will suffer due to resistance....Higher resistance equals lower voltage...
Resistance alters in relation to draw....Higher demand equals higher resistance which equals lower voltage....

With regards your formula, never heard it before....Can't see how it would work either....

 

[matt|H]

Priceless, actually made me chuckle....

Meh.. I don't know lol

 

[agithegreat]

Just thrape the hell out of your system Get some tones on, and measure votage across amplifiers power side. WHEN ENGINE IS ON! I it drops to about 12volts you should look at uprating things. If it doesnt go below 13 its fine. Simple!
Mine never drops below 12.5 volts and i run a jbl 1201.1 ~1200wrms. And a 755.6 for my mids and a jensen old school bro. So that totals to about 1.6Kwrms and have no problem on a standard battery and uprated engine wiring. I'm getting another 1201.1 soon, so i'll change then to an uprated alternator when im on ~2.5 kwrms true.