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Brake Cooling



  172
Don't know why I bothered getting mine as im waay to lazy to relocate or remove the acoustic valve and carbon cannister so my air comes in through where the fogs used to be with the inserts and exit via the holes I made in the wheel arches also with the inserts. I could be wrong but I swear the car feels more unstable at speeds over 100mph now
 

Dave LM

ClioSport Club Member
  PH1 172
Just did a trackday at Rockingham last Friday with my latest 172. My brake set up is standard discs and lines, RC6 pads front and EBC yellow rear, with Motul RBF600 fluid.

I started the day with no arch liners and fog lights removed, as well as carbon canister removed and horns re positioned. It was a hot day to start with, with temps between 25 and 30C throughout, but the brakes were faultless and didn't many a 15-20 minute stint without fade.

We were doing the Intrrnational circuit which is about 2.2 miles, and has 4 big braking areas per lap, the fastest one being 105-110 down to about 30.

For later sessions I removed the fog light covers completely, just to add extra venting although it didn't seem necessary.
@M.C.. Was also at the track day and he was running the CL RC6 pads, which seemed faultless for him also.
 
Few pics of My brake cooling setup when I was fitting it (on a mk1 )
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Ideally you want to force air up through the centre of the disc to cool it evenly the only problem with this is as I've found is a lot of clio discs are vented from the front instead of the rear and it really doesn't work as well

Like this
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Instead of like this

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When I get chance in going to make some better ducts that fit to the hub something like this
9294B5E3-CEC4-408B-9DA1-373778E2FACD.jpg


Good set up, however you can cool the brakes down too much and move them out of their operating temperature, so by the time you reach the next turn your brakes would have cooled down too much.
 
  172 Ph1
Managed to get these fitted today , seems to fit quite tidy , when car on the floor , no fowling on full lock and it clears the braided brake line . [emoji2] sweet.
O/S one doubles as a guard for the crank pulley as such

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438968894.864548.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438968902.496956.jpg
 
  172 Ph1
So I'm doing the last stages of the scoops today , as you can see in the pic one on my brackets which is pop riveted to the fog housing and this only poses a minor issue.
I had to cut the pipe to pass along side of the riveted part .
Once in place I secured with a hose clip and it's nice and tight .

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439138114.541566.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439138121.868926.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439138129.477717.jpg
 
  172
Im such a t**t. It never occured ti me that if I had ordered regular ducting I could just force it into place between the carbon cannister and the horns. LoL
 
  172 Ph1
Im such a t**t. It never occured ti me that if I had ordered regular ducting I could just force it into place between the carbon cannister and the horns. LoL

I did re position the horns but just a fraction , as for my carbon canister it's no longer there.
 
  172
I have two horns and have no idea how to remove CC or the acoustic valve. Not sure I want to either as im sure they are there for a reason.
 
  172 Ph1
Purpose of the carbon canister is to store tank fumes and then bleeds them into the engine at certain times when requested.
With it gone makes this process redundant so fumes won't be drawn in to upset the mixture . A cleaner running engine so to speak.
 
I had two horns too but I removed the bracket, removed one horn from the bracket and then mounted that horn directly to the chassis where the original bracket mounted. Doesn't sound as good with only one tone but i'm not that bothered.
 


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