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Cambelt / Timing belt change guide



  172 Rally Car
Are there any threads on here apart from the one in the "how to" section on the full procedure for changing the belt and dephaser in a step by step stylee?
 
  AB182, Audi A5 3.0
no, not a complete one anyway. its not something you do yourself on the f4r engines ans they are so easy to f**k up.
 
Here.

TDC the enfine
check the crank location on flywheel
lock cams
remove aux kit
remove upper cover
undo lower cover
undo bottom pulley
release cambelt tension
remove idlers
lock pulleys
undo pulleys
remove dephaser

assembly is the reversal of removal.
 
  AB182, Audi A5 3.0
With the greatest respect chaps I didn't ask if I should do it myself, I asked if there are other guides on the forum.But thanks for your concerns

I didn't say don't do it, I was explaining why there are probably no 'step-by-step' guides ;) If you want the service manual, I can pm you that over, but its not a 'step-by-step' guide.
 
  AB182, Audi A5 3.0
Lol really. If your an incompetent fool like most of CS I suppose you might be right

bit of a twatish comment that really don't you think? Most of Cs aren't mechanics or only dabble in it now an then. The timing on the f4r is very easy to get wrong, even garages have managed to do it wrong countless times.
 
I disagree Mick.

Renault say you can just undo one.
I've done it both ways many times and got the timing right without issue both ways.
I've also know a guy who used to work at the Renault dealership who said they only undo the crank pulley for a simple cambelt change.
 
  172 Rally Car
But surely by the fact the exhaust pulley has been loosened means that the pulley locking tool would need to be used?
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
Because when i do them Mark i always change the camshaft oil seals as the dephaser is the common one for leaking. Yeah you "can" do the belt change with just the exhaust spinning (providing the crank sprocket is also spinning freely) but you've got to lock the pulley to remove loosen it and it takes no extra time to do the same on the inlet side why wouldn't you?

Do you check dephasers for signs or movement or leaking from the oil seal? My warranty is my pocket so I like to ensure I am covered by checking and replacing everything.
 
Because when i do them Mark i always change the camshaft oil seals as the dephaser is the common one for leaking. Yeah you "can" do the belt change with just the exhaust spinning (providing the crank sprocket is also spinning freely) but you've got to lock the pulley to remove loosen it and it takes no extra time to do the same on the inlet side why wouldn't you?

Do you check dephasers for signs or movement or leaking from the oil seal? My warranty is my pocket so I like to ensure I am covered by checking and replacing everything.

That all sounds sensible, you didn't mention any of it in your previous post.
 
  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
Only on CS.

The Renault pdf says you can use just one unless you have a need to undo the cam pulleys i.e. dephaser or cam change.

with all due respect, I wouldn't pay any attention to anyone advising not to use all the locking tools. It's bad advice, anf anyone handing out bad advice, shouldn't give any advice at all.
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
That all sounds sensible, you didn't mention any of it in your previous post.

I didn't because I wasn't trying to tell people how to do the job. The manual is out there for people to download which allows them to give it a go but if they don't fully understand it they're gambling a lot. I wasn't having a go at anyone either Mark... i'm all for DIY'ing but I hate it when people say I (as a trader) scare monger on CS when I clearly don't.

Mick
 
  172 Rally Car
Question about setting the tensioner guys,

How do you know if you have it right?

I ashume that when you set it so that the marks line up and then rotate the pulleys you shouldn't get any movement and the marks should stay aligned?

When you torque the pulleys onto the cam and turn the engine over you will see the tensioner moving as it adjusts the belt tension depending on the action of the valve train?
 
  Cup In bits
Yes essentially mate, it will change when turning over the engine by hand but it should settle back to the marks or very close to it. The Allen key hole on the tensioner should point at circa 12 o'clock and not be past the centre stud between the inlet and exhaust cam pulleys iirc.

Fred had bother with tensioners running out of travel and it causes a potential clicking/knocking. Anything more than stated and the heads probably been skimmed and your needing a larger tensioner to take the slack.

This is wrong, was on one of my Clio's when I got it.

2534D864-5DD5-4B6A-8B15-F06669BBE70A-2611-0000026CED9E99F4_zps34f5df1b.jpg
 
Last edited:
  172 Rally Car
Anyone got a picture of what it should look like? I think we're getting a good thread of info here!
 
  RS Clio 182
Ive just been quoted £600 for both belts and the dephaser pulley (which i definatly need replacing aswell) ...does this sound a decent price?
 
Ive just been quoted £600 for both belts and the dephaser pulley (which i definatly need replacing aswell) ...does this sound a decent price?

Seems like a nice price, if you are close to DTM Performance they have a special offer of £525, but only 1 more change at that price.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...MBER-TIMING-BELT-PROMOTIONS-from-%A3325!!!!!!

I'd go to a specialist anyway, I know it's said all the time, bla bla bla, but it's said for a reason xD
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Its pretty awkward to do, and its easy to get the timing slightly wrong and lose a small amount of power, so having ALL the correct tools helps lower that risk, but if you are really careful and you make sure you check it back afterwards by pinning the crank after you have spun it over a few times you will know if its right or not and can then just keep having another go until it is if you are trying to get by without all the tools.

It gets easier every time you do it, if you watch Mike from MWM or Dan from SJM (and presumably Mick at diamond, danny @ 519, or fred too but Ive not seen them do it) then it really does look simple, but when you first do one its quite fiddly, I still dont like doing them if the engine is in the car just cause its awkward when you arent used to it, but on a stand its a piece of cake and thats how I normally do them (as I tend to be building an uprated engine not maintaining a standard car as im not really into that)
 
  Lionel Richie
Only on CS.

The Renault pdf says you can use just one unless you have a need to undo the cam pulleys i.e. dephaser or cam change.

the pdf is wrong, if you read the french version is states that engines WITH VVT must have the pullies undone to replace the belt, and non vvt engines you don't need to touch the pullies

on the uk pdf it shows a picture of a not vvt engine but with a vvt description (or vice versa, i forget), ie its totally wrong, hence why there are a lot of f**k ups

pullies MUST be undone when replacing just the belt - the end
 
  172, Tiguan
When you guys are rotating everything round to check tension, do you use the other special tool mentioned?
 

Mr R.

ClioSport Club Member
  A special one.
Its pretty awkward to do, and its easy to get the timing slightly wrong and lose a small amount of power, so having ALL the correct tools helps lower that risk, but if you are really careful and you make sure you check it back afterwards by pinning the crank after you have spun it over a few times you will know if its right or not and can then just keep having another go until it is if you are trying to get by without all the tools.

It gets easier every time you do it, if you watch Mike from MWM or Dan from SJM (and presumably Mick at diamond, danny @ 519, or fred too but Ive not seen them do it) then it really does look simple, but when you first do one its quite fiddly, I still dont like doing them if the engine is in the car just cause its awkward when you arent used to it, but on a stand its a piece of cake and thats how I normally do them (as I tend to be building an uprated engine not maintaining a standard car as im not really into that)

You've not exactly a small man Chip.

Hands like shovels doesn't help. :)
 
the pdf is wrong, if you read the french version is states that engines WITH VVT must have the pullies undone to replace the belt, and non vvt engines you don't need to touch the pullies

on the uk pdf it shows a picture of a not vvt engine but with a vvt description (or vice versa, i forget), ie its totally wrong, hence why there are a lot of f**k ups

pullies MUST be undone when replacing just the belt - the end

But if there is no play in the dephaser why would it make a difference whether it was on a VVT or not?

Do you have a link to the French version?
 


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