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Can someone post...
- Thread starter GUNN
- Start date
Its easy! Get yourself a Haynes manual. I did mine the other week. If you do your own following the way I did mine I take no responsibility for you doing over your car or if you do it incorrectly crash and die!
Changing pads is your responsibility. Please remember that its not just you who you could indanger if you dont do it incorrectly, its other road users!
One big tip is to note everything as you do things as you put the calipers back together in reverse of taking them off. Common sense really!
Mine were the 'girling' type calipers (not Benidix), briefly this is what I did:
The car is a 1998 (R) 1.2 8v D type engine.
1. Jack up car and take the wheel off.
2. Slacken off the brake fluid reservoir.
3. Undo the locking bolts x2. They require 10mm socket and 10mm spanner to hold the inner nut. You'll see what I mean. Make sure you undo the nut with the socket and not the spanner.
4. Take off caliper. It will lift off. Don’t let it dangle my the hose. Support it with a tool box etc.
5. Undo the wear sensor wire from feed that goes to car.
6. Lift out old pads and check how worn etc. You'll need to push to hydraulic rams back into the caliper. You'll need a lever device (use the old pads as a block and a spanner to push them back in), to do this. You'll see what I mean as the new pads dont fit unless you do it.
7. Place in new pads into the bottom caliper making sure that the groove cut in them is higher on the inside one than the outside. Again it’s easier with pics.
8. Line up the anti rattle springs at the top of the pad. Connect up the new wear sensor.
9. Place the top caliper back on over the new pads in the same way you took it off. It might be advisable to give it abit of a clean. Knock out some of the muck that gets stuck in there.
10. Put the NEW locking bolts in. You MUST use a locking compound on them or they will rattle out and your brakes may fail. Make sure you are confident they are tight.
11. Replace the wheel and repeat 1 to 10 on the other side.
12. Remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservoir once you are done.
13. Pump the brakes till they make contact with the disc.
14. Go for a short drive on a quiet road and make sure nothing is behind you and give them a test at about 10mph.
15. The new pads will take about 200 miles to bed into the pad. You'll notice as they do the braking gets sharper.
I was seriously chuffed when I did mine. I couldn’t believe how straight forward it was. Literally the hardest part was taking off the wheel! Best bit was it cost me about £25 to do (£14.99 for the pads and acouple of new spanners!)
Remember you are f**king with the brakes, so if your not confident don’t do it! And I would recommend you buy or take a look at a Haynes Manual before undertaking such work!
I'd make sure you have the correct parts and tools before you get going. I ended popping out several times for bits.
Next week I'm going to have a go at doing my own oil change and the rear pads!
Changing pads is your responsibility. Please remember that its not just you who you could indanger if you dont do it incorrectly, its other road users!
One big tip is to note everything as you do things as you put the calipers back together in reverse of taking them off. Common sense really!
Mine were the 'girling' type calipers (not Benidix), briefly this is what I did:
The car is a 1998 (R) 1.2 8v D type engine.
1. Jack up car and take the wheel off.
2. Slacken off the brake fluid reservoir.
3. Undo the locking bolts x2. They require 10mm socket and 10mm spanner to hold the inner nut. You'll see what I mean. Make sure you undo the nut with the socket and not the spanner.
4. Take off caliper. It will lift off. Don’t let it dangle my the hose. Support it with a tool box etc.
5. Undo the wear sensor wire from feed that goes to car.
6. Lift out old pads and check how worn etc. You'll need to push to hydraulic rams back into the caliper. You'll need a lever device (use the old pads as a block and a spanner to push them back in), to do this. You'll see what I mean as the new pads dont fit unless you do it.
7. Place in new pads into the bottom caliper making sure that the groove cut in them is higher on the inside one than the outside. Again it’s easier with pics.
8. Line up the anti rattle springs at the top of the pad. Connect up the new wear sensor.
9. Place the top caliper back on over the new pads in the same way you took it off. It might be advisable to give it abit of a clean. Knock out some of the muck that gets stuck in there.
10. Put the NEW locking bolts in. You MUST use a locking compound on them or they will rattle out and your brakes may fail. Make sure you are confident they are tight.
11. Replace the wheel and repeat 1 to 10 on the other side.
12. Remember to tighten up the brake fluid reservoir once you are done.
13. Pump the brakes till they make contact with the disc.
14. Go for a short drive on a quiet road and make sure nothing is behind you and give them a test at about 10mph.
15. The new pads will take about 200 miles to bed into the pad. You'll notice as they do the braking gets sharper.
I was seriously chuffed when I did mine. I couldn’t believe how straight forward it was. Literally the hardest part was taking off the wheel! Best bit was it cost me about £25 to do (£14.99 for the pads and acouple of new spanners!)
Remember you are f**king with the brakes, so if your not confident don’t do it! And I would recommend you buy or take a look at a Haynes Manual before undertaking such work!
I'd make sure you have the correct parts and tools before you get going. I ended popping out several times for bits.
Next week I'm going to have a go at doing my own oil change and the rear pads!
