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cant get alloy wheels off !!!!!!



  Clio Sport 197
Afternoon

I want to paint my calipers and removing my alloys is impossible, I have taken all bolts off, but somehow the alloy is fused to the car, any tips on how loosen them away from the car ?
 
  205 GTIS
Ensure that the car is suitable supported i.e. axle stands (not a jack) and as a precaution chuck something under the sills. Now either kick or knock with a wooden/copper mallet the inside of the tyre turn it 180 degrees and repeat until it comes off. Remmeber to apply copper slip to the hub face to stop this happening again.
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
Ensure that the car is suitable supported i.e. axle stands (not a jack) and as a precaution chuck something under the sills. Now either kick or knock with a wooden/copper mallet the inside of the tyre turn it 180 degrees and repeat until it comes off. Remmeber to apply copper slip to the hub face to stop this happening again.

Spot on.
 
  BMW M4; S1000 RR
If kicking/wacking doesn't work after you've tried as hard as you can. Put the bolts back in, do them up finger tight and lower the car. You might need to roll it forward/backward a bit but the force a car's weight will put on the wheels is far higher than you'll be able to recreate with a kick.

Once it's loose then jack it back up.
 
  Ph1
Soak the bolts in vinegar for a few hours to remove some rust, wire brush to clean then apply copper grease to the bolt threads and hub.
 
  330i. E30 Touring.
I never bother greasing them.

Never really have a problem with the impact gun. Best £60 every spent.
 
  1.6 Focus, 1.6 122S
I've sheered wheel bolts with my impact gun. Cooper grease just stop its from seizing.

Copper grease is anti seize, not a full on lube cat171
 

Cub.

ClioSport Moderator
Why? Always copper grease wheel bolts!

I'm not saying you can't (lightly copper grease them) but I was always told that they are designed to be non-lubricated. In the absence of Chip, I'll leave this lengthy and highly interesting post here;

"Wheel bolts should (generally) be installed dry.

The design intent of bolted fasteners is that they should develop clamping force. This means that the bolt is in tension, and the joint is placed in corresponding compression.

When you apply torque to a fastener, most of this effort is spent in overcoming the friction beneath the rotating head of the fastener, and the friction in the sliding threads. Only a little effort is actually expended in tensioning the fastener.

The relationship between the torque you apply and the tension you achieve is, therefore, strongly influenced by the condition of these sliding surfaces, and by greasing them, you will obtain much more tension in the fastener than was designed for.

This extra tension can be enough to strip the threads, to damage the fastener, or to damage the component being secured. If the joint has been well designed, the shank of the fastener will snap first, before thread stripping or component damage, but, not all bolted joints are well designed.

This dependence on friction to determine how torque tightening produces fastener tension is why torque tightening is quite a poor method of installing fasteners. Torque tightening is popular because it's quick and easy. Even with the best torque tools and highly trained fitters, the scatter in bolt tension between a population of bolts is quite wide. For more critical fasteners on cars, a torque plus angle specification is usually given which gives much more accurate tensioning, and which usually makes much more efficient use of the fastener material.

Incidentally, the joint face between the wheel and hub should also remain dry - this face is, effectively, a clutch face transmitting drive and braking torque between the hub and wheel. This torque should be transmitted by the friction, and not by shearing the bolts.

The bottom line is that all safety critical fasteners should be tightened by following the manufacturer's specification, with no ad-hoc modification."

Although I disagree with not copper greasing the hub to wheel face. I always grease that as it becomes a turd to get off, much like the OP's problem.
 
  Ph1
Well i'v been copper greasing the bolts every time i take the wheels off for years now and never had a problem, also never had a broken or seized bolt or wheel stuck on..

You can read too much into things. Should do this can't do that. Most of its a load of garbage
 

botfch

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182
For your average Clio it doesn't matter for other things it does tractor wheels for example.
 
  1.6 Focus, 1.6 122S
Cub that is assuming perfectly clean thread and bolt, and I'm lazy, lol. Also I don't grease the outer clamping surface.

If you grease the entire bolt you risk slippage when tightening. Just a little cooper grease on the end ensures easy removal in my opinion.
 
  Ph1
True mate but he says his bolts are rusty. Whether he means the head or the threads, dunno.

End of the day should really check the bolt tightness periodically anyway :)
 
  1.6 Focus, 1.6 122S
Oh I agree mate, I'm not too fussed. But when I'm hurtling around a track, I'd rather they got stuck on, than came off.

Agreed, circumstances change priorities. If I'm in the middle of nowhere, I'd want to be able to easily get a wheel off. If it were a track car, I'd be inclined to do as you do.
 

Cub.

ClioSport Moderator
True mate but he says his bolts are rusty. Whether he means the head or the threads, dunno.

End of the day should really check the bolt tightness periodically anyway :)

Headshot. Completely agree there, amazes me how many people (my wife included) who have probably never checked their wheel bolts in their entire life's.
 
  205 GTIS
Personally I never use a rattle gun to do up wheel bolts, I've seen far too many ruined wheel bolts/hubs through improper use of such tools. On the topic of copper slipping bolts, manufactuers generally state whether bolts should be installed dry or lightly oiled and the torque figure reflects this. No matter what the threads should always be clean and free from foreign objects.
 


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