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Carbon Fibre Airbox





I know this has been discussed in great detail (and there was a lot of talk about BMC CDA or Viper or just air filter) before but for all those needing to change their air filter @ 20,000 km service, the information from the discussion may summarise induction/air filters once and for all.

Should I get:

1. BMC CDA (& if I do, is the temperature control of the engine block regulated by the computer or not?; because if not, the ECU should really be modified to correctly adjust the A/F ratio, right)

2. RenaultSport carbon fibre airbox (is this different in size to the standard 172 airbox so there is potential for greater volume of air). By the way, does anyone (Tonykart ;)) have the part number if this modification exists.

3. Air filter (any reputable brand you care to name) - BMC, Pipercross?



Only informed comments welcomed (esp. BenR, Tonykart, Roamer)
 


Any sealed induction kit is really as good as another, so long as the filter element isnt restrictive, too small or like the viper, prone to tearing when dry. Your only aiming to really reduce induction temps from the 60-80 deg summer temps to as close to ambient as possible, which is rougly 35-40 deg intake temp.

The ECUs ability for WOT fueling regulations isnt good, and it can run lean, or in some cases rich.

Not heard of or seen the carbon Renaultsport affair.
 


Ben,

So what you are suggesting is:

1. Standard airbox/induction kit is good enough

2. That ECU be modified is you want a non-standard induction kit

3. Modify where the intake of the airbox (whether it be standard or non-standard) to where the left foglight stands or where the lower plastic grill is (at the level of the foglight by cutting a hole in the plastic) - will this reduce induction temps? But surely RenaultSport have already worked out where the best place to take cool air from!



PS. Ben, up so early la!:D
 


Oh, forget to ask:

If I modify the airbox/induction kit and leave the ECU as per normal, then what long term engine damage/deterioration can I expect? After all, I think (am I correct?) that most gains are only at top end anyway. Hate to lose part of that low-rev torque.

Also, noticed that aspect of the RenaultSport Clio. During a dyno run, cannot remember the changes in A/F throughout the runs but did remember that A/F did run 12-13. Greater amount of air via non-standard induction would sort that out, wouldnt it or would the ECU re-compensate? Just as a matter of interest, what measurements does the ECU make (O2 intake readings, temperature of air intake, etc. etc. - please care to name)
 


early la!!!! my native lingo ah ma!

where are you from eh!

An A/F ratio of 12-13 is good, any higher and you wont be making as much power as you can from a sungle burn.

1. prety good, but not perfect

2. yes

3. yes

no long term damage or damage at all from modified std boxes.

the ECU uses throttle position via the potentiometer, the MAP, IAT, lambda, rpm........any now my brain fails befor i pass out.

night!
 


From HK, mate; but live in Australia;).

Whats that? No long term damage from BMC CDA?

What do you think? Have the intake hose where the foglight was or cut into that grill.

Cheers!
 
  Suzuki SV1000S


Mate, I would go for a Quickshift Taipan 2 Kit, Similar in looks to the Viper kit, but tests have shown a better increase in performance. Contact POTN
 


Quote: Originally posted by TypeRC on 28 January 2004


From HK, mate; but live in Australia;).

Whats that? No long term damage from BMC CDA?

What do you think? Have the intake hose where the foglight was or cut into that grill.

Cheers!





Righto make, just come back from old SARS nation. Anyway, i meant that witha modified std airbox no real need to adapt fueling.
 


Do you have photo that can be posted here ?




Quote: Originally posted by George16v on 28 January 2004

Mate, I would go for a Quickshift Taipan 2 Kit, Similar in looks to the Viper kit, but tests have shown a better increase in performance. Contact POTN
[/QUOTE]
 


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