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182cup & 172 racecar
16's will be expensive though.
Looking very nice!
As said 15's ftw!
As said 15's ftw!
Caterham, Z4
More choice and lower cost if you go for 15s...
Hi, I get A048's for £108 + vat and can get them cut for wets an extra £12 + vat, though not sure how the price with postage adds up compared to other suppliers. The place is 10 miles down the road so I just pick up.
Car's coming on well, get it finished and get lapping, experience is better than any 1kg weight saved (as I found out in 2011), less time consuming too....
Car's coming on well, get it finished and get lapping, experience is better than any 1kg weight saved (as I found out in 2011), less time consuming too....
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As well as Tesco momentum fuel we use EBC pads....moving up from red stuff to yellow stuff as the experience gained during 2011 the red stuff do not cut it anymore.
I put my red stuff pads in March 2011 completed 6 (or 7) track days (with two drivers) so around 200 miles on track per day and they never let me or Sam down. Though I did notice on the last track day, Nov 2011 that with the speed I was carrying there was a difference in the feel and possibly I had to press harder. Believe it or not there is still a fair bit of pad left on them too, at least a 1\4 on the front and 3\4 on rear. The rears still have plenty of pad so I'm only changing the front to yellow stuff this weekend.
They are not the pads of choice for this forum but for the cost and experiance I have they are fine for me.
Hope this info is of some use to you.
I put my red stuff pads in March 2011 completed 6 (or 7) track days (with two drivers) so around 200 miles on track per day and they never let me or Sam down. Though I did notice on the last track day, Nov 2011 that with the speed I was carrying there was a difference in the feel and possibly I had to press harder. Believe it or not there is still a fair bit of pad left on them too, at least a 1\4 on the front and 3\4 on rear. The rears still have plenty of pad so I'm only changing the front to yellow stuff this weekend.
They are not the pads of choice for this forum but for the cost and experiance I have they are fine for me.
Hope this info is of some use to you.
182cup & 172 racecar
We did last season on yellows, they were fine.
Chase Racing Clio
March 1[SUP]st[/SUP] & 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] 2012
Whilst I was away with my lovely lady for the weekend visiting her parents (and their new dog), Ryan and Rob made some cracking progress. A lot more fabricating has been done and some good steps have been made.
Ryan's beautiful welding really showing through now, base plates are all sorted.
He's also done the brackets for the door bars.
The blower assembly has had a nice little blanking plate bonded on, so as to direct all the air on to the screen. It's a see through panel too….how novelty.
The bumper is off now too, as is the radiator and inlet. We'll be pulling the engine out for a few quick changes once the wheels are back on the car.
The rear suspension being re-constructed.
The rear end going back in place. You can also see the plates welded underneath the sill that'll be used as jacking points. We put these in place to give us more material to weld against when putting in the base plates for the centre section (first pic of this post)
You can also now see we have the new gaz golds in place on the rear, just waiting for the new discs, pads and camber shims to finish off that bit.
A front cross car beam has been welded in across the front section of the cage to house the modified top dash piece. This cross beam still maintains the cage as a true bolt in cage, whilst providing good mounting points for anything we need in the way of gauges, switches etc.
Here's the view from the rear…. Next jobs to do include a harness bar and some rear end stiffening. Plenty more to be getting on with anyway. Watch this space, next update in a few days.
Whilst I was away with my lovely lady for the weekend visiting her parents (and their new dog), Ryan and Rob made some cracking progress. A lot more fabricating has been done and some good steps have been made.
Ryan's beautiful welding really showing through now, base plates are all sorted.
He's also done the brackets for the door bars.
The blower assembly has had a nice little blanking plate bonded on, so as to direct all the air on to the screen. It's a see through panel too….how novelty.
The bumper is off now too, as is the radiator and inlet. We'll be pulling the engine out for a few quick changes once the wheels are back on the car.
The rear suspension being re-constructed.
The rear end going back in place. You can also see the plates welded underneath the sill that'll be used as jacking points. We put these in place to give us more material to weld against when putting in the base plates for the centre section (first pic of this post)
You can also now see we have the new gaz golds in place on the rear, just waiting for the new discs, pads and camber shims to finish off that bit.
A front cross car beam has been welded in across the front section of the cage to house the modified top dash piece. This cross beam still maintains the cage as a true bolt in cage, whilst providing good mounting points for anything we need in the way of gauges, switches etc.
Here's the view from the rear…. Next jobs to do include a harness bar and some rear end stiffening. Plenty more to be getting on with anyway. Watch this space, next update in a few days.
182cup & 172 racecar
They have been busy.
Clio 172
I'll be following this thread, looks like a great project can't wait to see it on track.
Ford Fiesta Zetec-S
good work, keep it up
Chase Racing Clio
March 7[SUP]th[/SUP] 2012:
We're getting towards the stage now where we're actually putting a few things back on the car, which is a really nice feeling. The first of which is the front left corner, the brake pads are still to be bought, so we'll leave the caliper off for now until we get them.
Rob and Ryan have made a nice job of fabricating a rear stiffening brace. This cross piece comes off the rear top mounts and across to the fixing position for the rear beam; a plate has been made here with encapsulated nuts, getting rid of the standard fixings which have a very awkward round head on one end. This cross piece also avoids collision with the cage, maintaining it as a true bolt-in cage.
We've also had a few more parts, including the new polycarbonate which will make up the rear screen (side windows to follow), full set of discs, a new steering column (already fitted) and some speedline anthracite 15s which have come from a former 182 cup car!! It's all about who you know, 300 quid for the 4 wheels!
We're getting towards the stage now where we're actually putting a few things back on the car, which is a really nice feeling. The first of which is the front left corner, the brake pads are still to be bought, so we'll leave the caliper off for now until we get them.
Rob and Ryan have made a nice job of fabricating a rear stiffening brace. This cross piece comes off the rear top mounts and across to the fixing position for the rear beam; a plate has been made here with encapsulated nuts, getting rid of the standard fixings which have a very awkward round head on one end. This cross piece also avoids collision with the cage, maintaining it as a true bolt-in cage.
We've also had a few more parts, including the new polycarbonate which will make up the rear screen (side windows to follow), full set of discs, a new steering column (already fitted) and some speedline anthracite 15s which have come from a former 182 cup car!! It's all about who you know, 300 quid for the 4 wheels!
welshname
ClioSport Club Member
Looks great and great project.
Good luck!
Good luck!
182cup & 172 racecar
Always nice when you start putting bits back on.
Couldnt agree with that more! Cant wait for my car to actually look like a car again!!
182cup & 172 racecar
I bet.
March 7[SUP]th[/SUP] 2012:
Rob and Ryan have made a nice job of fabricating a rear stiffening brace. This cross piece comes off the rear top mounts and across to the fixing position for the rear beam; a plate has been made here with encapsulated nuts, getting rid of the standard fixings which have a very awkward round head on one end. This cross piece also avoids collision with the cage, maintaining it as a true bolt-in cage.
Nice idea, are you going to triangulate this to the cage?
I thought about tying the rear beam mounts to the cage on my car, still think about it but dont want to add anymore weight unless I have to lol.
Is that it fitted in that picture, just wondered what was going on with the N/S pick up where the shock comes through, looks off centre?
182cup & 172 racecar
Got to be careful, some regs say you cannot use the cage as suspension pick up points.
I'm not aware of the finer details of all the championships and their rules, but appreciate you might not be able to do that in some of them. Given the design of that brace imho it would certainly benefit from being attached to the cage if it's allowed.
I've just been going by the Blue Book for Modified series production running in sprints and hills and there nothing to stop me using the cage to reinforce the suspension pic ups etc.
The likes of the custom cages multipoint technically does this at the front and the back
I've just been going by the Blue Book for Modified series production running in sprints and hills and there nothing to stop me using the cage to reinforce the suspension pic ups etc.
The likes of the custom cages multipoint technically does this at the front and the back
182cup & 172 racecar
Oh I know they do, I've seen them.
They say that once the pick up points are attached to the cage, it then becomes a space frame.
They say that once the pick up points are attached to the cage, it then becomes a space frame.
Chase Racing Clio
As I eluded to before, we won't be attaching that rear cross piece to cage. The small bit of tube sitting over the top mount in that picture won't be staying there as it means we can't access the top mount then. We need to get a larger diameter section of tube to put Re. That small piece is only tacked in for now
Who says that?
As far as the MSA/Blue Book is concerned you are allowed to strengthen the chassis and modify suspension pick up points, on a modified series production car anyway.
It would only become a spaceframe if you started to remove the original material from between the hub centres and therefore the loads where acting directly into the cage and any new tubes etc.
That explains that then.
I assume you want to keep the cage removable to allow you to re-shell the car easily if needs be?
Eeeekkk I hope mines okay :S Just shows no matter how many times I read the reg's I have still missed stuff
Chase Racing Clio
Indeed...there's no point having a bolt in cage if it can't be removed. The thought being that, if worst comes to worst (which it won't) and we roll the damn thing, we can remove the cage and put it in a new shell.
I highly doubt you'll be able to use a cage that's been in a roll, will no doing distort in some way, shape or form. I know I wouldn't be...
Chase Racing Clio
You have to be doing some serious speed to get a cage to buckle....that's the whole idea of them. If we dug in the gravel at like 30mph and rolled it over to cripple the roof and wreck a few panels, the cage wouldn't distort at all.
Chase Racing Clio
We definitely aren't expecting to be crashing the car, we're just keeping the cage as a bolt in, simple as really.
Jay, Tony, fresh question for you.... do you use camber bolts or just the top mount to adjust your camber?? We've got the AST top mounts but we've been looking at the eibach camber bolts too. We're thinking that the top mounts also adjust caster at the same time as camber, which isn't always ideal.
Jay, Tony, fresh question for you.... do you use camber bolts or just the top mount to adjust your camber?? We've got the AST top mounts but we've been looking at the eibach camber bolts too. We're thinking that the top mounts also adjust caster at the same time as camber, which isn't always ideal.
182cup & 172 racecar
Use the top mounts to get as much caster as possible then get some camber bolts.
Our struts are slotted, so we can adjust camber that way.
Our struts are slotted, so we can adjust camber that way.
Caterham, Z4
March 7[SUP]th[/SUP] 2012:
We're getting towards the stage now where we're actually putting a few things back on the car, which is a really nice feeling. The first of which is the front left corner, the brake pads are still to be bought, so we'll leave the caliper off for now until we get them.
Caterham, Z4
March 7[SUP]th[/SUP] 2012:
We're getting towards the stage now where we're actually putting a few things back on the car, which is a really nice feeling. The first of which is the front left corner, the brake pads are still to be bought, so we'll leave the caliper off for now until we get them.
Old, rusty nuts! After all that paint it is such a shame to use old hardware! I know it is not a show queen, but new nuts or a little polish would have finished the job off nicely!
Yes, my 172 build will take longer than it should and cost far too much ;-)
I got my AST's machined (slots extended) as didn't want the half size camber bolts moving\giving up when out on track...think they are quit a bit thinner than the standard bolts. Plus you can only get 2 - 2.5 degrees of camber with them (I think)....I run 3.5 now. You'll need more camber than you think once your experience\speed improves...
