Clio 172 engine help?

[bradleydc172]

Hi was wondering if someone else could help me unbaffle my head. Ive got a clio 172 with a knocking engine. It was all working brillantly me and a friend done the dephaser change still working fine done a 5 mile trip after we done the dephaser then the main shell bearings went. So we changed them and the big end bearings then after that it stopped knocking. Took the car back on another 1 mile trip and then started knocking again. Ive spend so many hours on this to work out why its knocking and still cant find out why. Maybe the timing is still out a little i dont know but im doing the same timing up as i did before back when it was working. Where am i going wrong? If there is anyone that maybe able to help me with this ill be much greatfull. I dont want to buy a new engine as funds are short. Please can someone unbaffle my brain with this one?

 

[bloke]

video?

 

[bradleydc172]

I do have a video but its not letting me upload as im on my mobile

 

[bloke]

my money is on pistons hitting the valves then so far.

 

[bradleydc172]

Thats what i think. Im guessing timing

 

[bradleydc172]

hi mate ive managed to get the video to upload to youtube. hope this helps

 

[Jonz]

If you replaced the cambelt I assume you have the timing tools? It's just a case of sticking the horseshoe tool in the cam slots and crank locking pin in. It does sound heavier than valve slap to me though, have you tried disconnecting the plugs one by one to try and isolate it to a cylinder?

 

[bradleydc172]

Yes i have. It only does it when the engine is running. If i do it so there is no spark. There is no knocking no nothing. Sounds sweet. But as soon as there is a spark and the engine is running its back agian? So im just loosing all ideas on what else it could be. I know buying a new engine is my better option but i dont really wanna do that.

 

[Jonz]

By disconnecting the spark plug leads I mean with the engine running, one at a time to see if the knock goes away when one of the cylinders isn't firing. You would know then it isn't valve slap and what cynlinder it's in.

The rod journals weren't damaged were they?

 

[bloke]

does sound more like bottom end from the video, can you get a video from under the bonnet while someone revs the engine a couple of times?

 

[bradleydc172]

Bottom end has been done though and yes ill get someone to do it now

 

[bradleydc172]

My dad still reckons the timing is out. Because the bottom end all got fixed. This video is from the engine being cold and it reved up to 3.5k when engine is warm it started knocking at 2k

 

[Jonz]

The knock doesn't sound so heavy in that video and it's running rough as hell, doesn't have any bent valves? The timing is a 10min job to check if you have the tools for it, I would do that first. The only way I can see of getting the timing wrong (apart from not tightening the pulleys correctly or if oil gets on the friction cup) is putting the crank lock pin in the balancing hole of the crankshaft, so make sure it's in the right hole when checking the timing.

 

[Jonz]

The knock doesn't sound so heavy in that video and it's running rough as hell, doesn't have any bent valves? The timing is a 10min job to check if you have the tools for it, I would do that first. The only way I can see of getting the timing wrong (apart from not tightening the pulleys correctly or if oil gets on the friction cup) is putting the crank lock pin in the balancing hole of the crankshaft, so make sure it's in the right hole when checking the timing.

Actually now that I've thought about it, it may be possible to lock the camshafts 180 degrees out, the big D of the camshafts should be facing down.

 

[bradleydc172]

Actually now that I've thought about it, it may be possible to lock the camshafts 180 degrees out, the big D of the camshafts should be facing down.

The big d? Sorry if im being really dumb right now

 

[Jonz]

The big d? Sorry if im being really dumb right now

When you look at the end of the camshafts theres a slit across them that the camshaft timing tool slots in to, either side of the slot it looks like a small D and a big D.
http://s4.photobucket.com/user/geesus69/media/cup racer/Photo0264.jpg.html

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[bradleydc172]

mine looks the same i think ill go and check it in the morning get some photos of the timing and everything. does the dephaser have to be in a curtain place or can it be bolted on the camshaft and not worry where i needs to be or anything? i did go through the rebulid guide but started to get slighty confused. maybe i bit to much i could chew but as i said in my first post it was all working fine untill the bottom end went. i fixed the main bearing and big end bearings now im gfetting this problem.

 

[bloke]

why did bottom end go in the first place? did you just replace shells or have crank checked/ground?

Actually now that I've thought about it, it may be possible to lock the camshafts 180 degrees out, the big D of the camshafts should be facing down.

doesn't matter what way they are.

 

[bradleydc172]

Shell bearing gone
They was like wafer thin

 

[bloke]

how many, what ones, what caused it, anything done to the crank?

 

[bradleydc172]

Piston 3 main and big end but changed all. Crank had some of the bearing left on there but took it all off and had it ground down back to normal

 

[bloke]

did you change the oil pump?

 

[Jonz]

why did bottom end go in the first place? did you just replace shells or have crank checked/ground?




doesn't matter what way they are.

Normally it wouldn't because the cams rotate once per 2 revolutions of the crank, but the locking tool doesn't lock them at dead on 180 with the cams the wrong way up, it just goes in with some force.

I got it the wrong way around, big D on top, it's been a while!
See page 07-8 for a clear explination of what I mean by the D's
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/46390759/F4R_730.pdf

 

[bloke]

Normally it wouldn't because the cams rotate once per 2 revolutions of the crank, but the locking tool doesn't lock them at dead on 180 with the cams the wrong way up, it just goes in with some force.

locks them fine either way.

 

[bradleydc172]

thanks guys for your help. i shall be doing the clio on tuesday. ill try again and see what happened and then upload a video and see what you guys think. i had someone on facebook asking me weither it could be a dead dephaser?? whats your views on this??#

 

[bradleydc172]

did you change the oil pump?

no i didnt change oil pump. i got the pump all cleaned and checked

 

[bloke]

not dephaser. had one the other month with pistons hitting valves but yours sounds more like bottom end though.

did you clean the block out as well?

 

[bradleydc172]

not dephaser. had one the other month with pistons hitting valves but yours sounds more like bottom end though.

did you clean the block out as well?

yeah i cleaned it all. i made sure of it. but as i said it worked fine after bottom end was fixed for about a mile but had it running a good couple of hours before driving it to makes sure it was all working okay and it was, as soon as i drive it a mile up the road it went like this so not a clue tbh ill re time it and see what happends if worst comes to worst ill re strip down the bottom again and see what it looks like

 

[bradleydc172]

Hi guys. Ive done some investergating turns out them bottom end on p3 has s**t its self on the new bearings. Has anyone got cheap engine or crack? For sale or know anyone?

 

[bloke]

got a 182 engine, had belts and dephaser done about 2 years ago.

 

[DaveLiquid182]

Could the shells have been put in wrong way round? By that I mean one without oil hole put in the rod. If they are like that.