CLIO 182 IMMOBILISER PROBLEMS - HELP!!!

[Eneh5]

When starting my car, it starts briefly for 2 seconds then dies. I don't believe there is a problem with the battery because it seems to crank over fine and doesn't get any weaker. Every time I try. I've been told that I have immobiliser problems.

I can start the car eventualy by leaving the key alone in the ignition for 10 minutes and allowing the immobiliser to reset itself but I have to rev the car up a lot for it to keep running. After it has started, it runs fine. I only have one key so I don't know if it is a problem with that.

Any suggestions on how to get it sorted for good?
​

 

[MicKPM]

Okay, first of all the imobilliser will not "reset" itself... It's an active system that unless the battery is disconnected is always working in one way or another. When you put the key in the ignition and turn the key to start the car what is the "state" of the red LED center of the clockset; is it flashing or is it steady?

Steady = Key recognised, system disarmed
Flashing = Key not recognised, system armed

Also, silly question but have you had the key to pieces recently to say change the fob battery? Sometimes a YES to this answers the next question.

Mick

 

[Eneh5]

The red light in the centre of the clockset stays steady when the key is in the ignition.

I took the key to pieces to get rid of some of the dirt inside because I was told that may help and the red light on the fob itself still flashes when I press the key so I assumed the battery wouldn't need to be changed. Any other suggestions? My car started first time yesterday however I took it for a short drive the day before and tried to restart the engine and I had the same fault. There seems to be no pattern as to when it decides when to start and when not to start.

Noch

 

[MicKPM]

If the red light is steady when you put the key in the ignition, even when the car refuses to start say's it is not an imobilliser issue.

A diagnostic session will say for sure but i'd guess the crank position sensor/circuit is at fault myself.

 

[Eneh5]

I've not had a problem for the past 4 days, it has started every time. I'm gunna watch it this week and take it to the garage at the weekend.

Cheers for the help.

 

[Eneh5]

I tried to start my car yesterday and it started and then cut out.

I also noticed that when I got to the car, it was already open (it flashed twice to indicate it locked when I pressed the button) and I am 100% sure I hadn't unlocked the car accidentally. I managed to get the car to start by keeping my foot on the accelerator when trying to start it but I don't know if this is bad for my engine?

I am going to take it in for a diagnostics session this weekend because its getting very annoying!

 

[Jonny1*2]

where are you? if it's starting, but then conking out it could be a few things.

If it was an immobiliser fault it wouldn't spark at all, so its not that.

 

[MicKPM]

Depends - I've seen a few UCH issues start this way... Run for a few seconds and then die.

There is also a documented "issue" with the Sirus ECM similar to this IIRC. That issue requires a reprogram to fix it - I'll have a read thru some bits later tonight if I get chance... gotta take the dog for a walk now.

 

[Eneh5]

I'm in West Yorkshire. If I dont have my foot on the accelerator the cut out but if I keep revving it, it stays on.

Also, if I don't have my foot on the accelerator, after 2 attempts, the car fails to start and I have to leave the ke in the ignition for 10 minutes and start the enging again.