Clutch change in car 172

[Nicolasticity]

Looking for a challenge....

Is there a guide or advice on changing a clutch on a 2001 172 sport - I want to do it in the car as indications are its OK. Im an ex Evinrude fitter so love fiddling in tight spaces. Did the Cam and head in the road and the neighbours' are missing the excitement!!

 

[fairm010]

love fiddling in tight spaces

Giggidy

 

[con1981]

I believe there's a guide for engine removal which shows how to get the clutch out. There is another on the internet as well which sites how to do it. Literally you need to pop both drive shaft out move the engine across and the push the box the other way. You need to glue the clutch plates together and then you can slip them in from under neath.

 

[Dan@SJM]

You won't do that on a 172.

Subframe down, undo the box, slide it over, then change the clutch.

 

[con1981]

You won't do that on a 172.

Subframe down, undo the box, slide it over, then change the clutch.

Depends on how big your hands are.

Yes Dan@sjm is right you will need to lower the sub frame as well

 

[Dan@SJM]

Nothing to do with how big your hands are. You won't fit the clutch between the box and fly.

 

[Nicolasticity]

Release bearing is singing like a castrated cat - can that be got at as well?

So I drop subframe but leave on bolts support engine on a trolley, and off we go?

 

[Dan@SJM]

Drop it one side, support the engine with a jack.

 

[Nicolasticity]

Valance off, airbox out, all gearbox attaching parts free, battery tray out, nearside steering arm off, calipers off, bottom balljoint loose, sub frame bolts soaked in plus gas and I was thinking.....
Why cant I leave offside suspension where it is - release the gator bolts at the gearbox, support drive shaft and pull gearbox away to the nearside it should pull off spline and be free and then work clutch?
Also do I need to drain gearbox I dont see why it had a change less than 5000 miles ago?

 

[Dan@SJM]

You don't have to do anything with the suspension other than disconnect the ball Joint.

You need to drain the box oil as the NSF driveshaft is inside the gearbox.

 

[Nicolasticity]

Drained and...

subframe cover bolts all removed but two front that bolt to subframe either side same position very tight so Ill leave them as the frame will drop with the the pressing attached. Two 18mm bolts subframe rear came out easy, nearside 16mm front OK but offside locks hard even though I can get a 3/8 drive on nut. I get about 4mm gap which should be OK to drop nearside the 4 inches I need to slide out gearbox.
Nearside caliper strut, ball joints all free but I wonder if clamping the coild spring an inch would make the wishbone joint break easier.
anyways raining now so

Tomorrow gearbox flange and bottom ball joint offside to get to the clutch..

 

[Budgie]

You need much more than 4mm if you're dropping the subframe. Those 16mm front bolts need to be completely out on the N/s.

 

[Nicolasticity]

Subframe bolts all loose but for the life of me I cant get the ABS sensor nearside to move at all - and is there a crack on the plastic pcasing, darn....

Is there a union nearby - if not I might leave it in and leave hub and drive shaft rear of gearbox.

 

[dablk]

The abs sensor unclips just behind the wheel arch cover. About 30 cm from the hub.

 

[Budgie]

As above mate. Connector for it behind the wheel arch liner. Give it a tug and it'll unclip.

 

[Dan@SJM]

Not quite sure why you're disconnecting it. Never done that on a clutch chanhw

 

[Budgie]

I take the shaft and hub out as one.

 

[Nicolasticity]

All shafts out, subframe lowered and plenty of clearance. All lower and upper gearbox bolts out, three starter bolts out, gearbox mounts disconnected. Used a gentle pressure on gearbox to seperate from engine and something is holding the engine and box - is it the 'torx' bolt/nut in picture - seems too lock the two together. I assume that the black 'clamp' that locates to the swivelled coupling can stay on the gearbox.

 

[Budgie]

Yep, whip that nut off.

The torx is the locating stud in the box

 

[Nicolasticity]

Many thanks for the help and advice - some rain delays and a dislocated finger doing a handstand with the kids (dont ask) didnt help but the new clutch is in and working fine. Cleaned plate and clutch with acetone and two drops of superglue and it went together fine. Old clutch had lots of life but the release bearing was without rollers - total mess.

Completed Sunday but had to take bus to work today as gearchange wasnt set right (I set it in neutral rather than reverse) and I could only go one way!

Valeo clutch is lighter than the OE and the I didnt fit the tin thing in the flywheel as I couldnt figure what it did.

Damaged the covers of the lower ball joints getting them apart so a little job to do.

Final question - Does the offside drive shaft have any location features when it fits the male spline - I noted a hole (spring and ball?) on the gearbox shaft and wondered if it was important?