Clutch kit change at home

[mad in general]

Since I have a whining release bearing I have decided to try my hand at a clutch change.

I have read various threads and am happy to learn that it is possible to do the change without having to remove the box completely.

It has been said that with the relevant components removed that it is possible to slide the box over on the subframe and do the change in situ.

I am looking for as much info as possible on how to do this.

Experts, help me out please???

 

[MartinR]

Budgie wrote a decent guide on how to do it not long back.

 

[mad in general]

@Budgie wrote a decent guide on how to do it not long back.

Was that for taking the box out through the top? I think I read that. Looking to avoid taking it out at all if possible.

 

[Budgie]

Yeah, no need to remove the box from the bay for a clutch change. Just have to make sure the clutch plate is 100% in the middle or the box won't go back on.

Really, it all depends on how handy you are with the spanners, but it's not hugely difficult.

Oh, and if you've never done it before, get a big bit if cardboard, as you remove bolts, poke them through the card and write where they came from. Takes a bit of time, but could save a real headache later.

 

[mad in general]

Yeah, no need to remove the box from the bay for a clutch change. Just have to make sure the clutch plate is 100% in the middle or the box won't go back on.

Really, it all depends on how handy you are with the spanners, but it's not hugely difficult.

Oh, and if you've never done it before, get a big bit if cardboard, as you remove bolts, poke them through the card and write where they came from. Takes a bit of time, but could save a real headache later.

I am happy to hear this from you, the cardboard suggestion is a great idea.

Could I be a pain though and ask for a quick run through of what I need to remove to get the right access?

 

[Coops Mk1]

ai linky to the guide Budgie man would be good

I've done loads on the mk1's so guessing same principle, lower frame and drop box onto it and slide out into wheel arch to get clearance?

 

[Budgie]

Out the top is my preference, but f you have a ramp/air tools, subframe down is probably quicker. The clips for the subframe bolts always snap for me, and that's a bit of a headache.

List of parts to remove:

Battery
Airbox
front bumper
slam panel
arch liners
upper inlet
drain coolant
rad & fan (leave aircon rad connected if circuit still holding pressure.
Front brakes.
drain gearbox oil.
remove driveshafts (possible to leave them in at the hub and and just disconnect at box end, but for the sake of ten mins to remove these, makes it much easier.
Leave shocks hanging in place. Cable tie calipers to these.
Crank sensor, earths, reverse switch etc
main coolant hose (leave it connected at matrix end and tuck it over towards the brake servo.
loom from thermostat area- undo and tuck up over the top of the engine. Tuck PAS line up there too.
Gear linkage- mark before removal if you don't want to risk realigning.
remove 3x 13mm starter motor bolts.
Remove 13mm bolt holding subframe bracket to body on the LHS- Then loosen the nut on the end of the wishbone to fold it down. you won't be able to pull the box off enough if this is there.
Loosen bolts from box to block
dogbone, upper and lower box mounts out.
Spin out bolts holding box on- mark these in a bit of cardboard so you know where they go back.
Out it comes. Have the engine on a jack so you can manouver it out. I usually find that by jacking the engine up to get the box off, then lowering the engine to lift box out the top. Can sometimes be handy to have someone who can control thr jack while you support/lift the box.

Tip- you don't need to remove the exhaust mani or starter motor wiring. Just let them sort themselves out. Be careful when moving the engine up and down that you're not f**king the mani.

I've done about 15 like this now, quickest one being 3hrs 45 mins in and out.. Used to drop the subframe, but got pissed off with the subframe retaining nuts/clips breaking. This is much more reliable IMO.

 

[Budgie]

ai linky to the guide Budgie man would be good

I've done loads on the mk1's so guessing same principle, lower frame and drop box onto it and slide out into wheel arch to get clearance?

I might be calling on you soon mate. May have just bought a Valver. (;

 

[Coops Mk1]

I might be calling on you soon mate. May have just bought a Valver. (;

don't do it mate looool!

remove the calipers for a clutch change, and the coolant system?? really that little space in there compared to the mk1? mk1 I literally just drop the frame, hang it off the exhaust, shafts out and whip box into the wheel arch with everything else still on.

 

[mad in general]

Out the top is my preference, but f you have a ramp/air tools, subframe down is probably quicker. The clips for the subframe bolts always snap for me, and that's a bit of a headache.

List of parts to remove:

Battery
Airbox
front bumper
slam panel
arch liners
upper inlet
drain coolant
rad & fan (leave aircon rad connected if circuit still holding pressure.
Front brakes.
drain gearbox oil.
remove driveshafts (possible to leave them in at the hub and and just disconnect at box end, but for the sake of ten mins to remove these, makes it much easier.
Leave shocks hanging in place. Cable tie calipers to these.
Crank sensor, earths, reverse switch etc
main coolant hose (leave it connected at matrix end and tuck it over towards the brake servo.
loom from thermostat area- undo and tuck up over the top of the engine. Tuck PAS line up there too.
Gear linkage- mark before removal if you don't want to risk realigning.
remove 3x 13mm starter motor bolts.
Remove 13mm bolt holding subframe bracket to body on the LHS- Then loosen the nut on the end of the wishbone to fold it down. you won't be able to pull the box off enough if this is there.
Loosen bolts from box to block
dogbone, upper and lower box mounts out.
Spin out bolts holding box on- mark these in a bit of cardboard so you know where they go back.
Out it comes. Have the engine on a jack so you can manouver it out. I usually find that by jacking the engine up to get the box off, then lowering the engine to lift box out the top. Can sometimes be handy to have someone who can control thr jack while you support/lift the box.

Tip- you don't need to remove the exhaust mani or starter motor wiring. Just let them sort themselves out. Be careful when moving the engine up and down that you're not f**king the mani.

I've done about 15 like this now, quickest one being 3hrs 45 mins in and out.. Used to drop the subframe, but got pissed off with the subframe retaining nuts/clips breaking. This is much more reliable IMO.

Is all of this required just for the clutch change though? keeping the box in situ.

 

[Budgie]

don't do it mate looool!

remove the calipers for a clutch change, and the coolant system?? really that little space in there compared to the mk1? mk1 I literally just drop the frame, hang it off the exhaust, shafts out and whip box into the wheel arch with everything else still on.

Yeah, there's a few bits like this. It's pretty tight in the bay, so little bits like this that only take a minute, I tend to do to make it easier.

 

[Budgie]

don't do it mate looool!

remove the calipers for a clutch change, and the coolant system?? really that little space in there compared to the mk1? mk1 I literally just drop the frame, hang it off the exhaust, shafts out and whip box into the wheel arch with everything else still on.

If you're taking it out the bottom, you don't have to remove the rad, etc. But i always like to leave plenty of room, and whipping calipers off etc takes 30 seconds.

 

[Budgie]

Is all of this required just for the clutch change though? keeping the box in situ.

Yep, still need to do all of this. You still have to take the box off, just not out of the engine bay.

 

[Scrooge]

I still just do it all in situ. Loosen drivers side subframe bolts but completely take out the passenger side bolts, lever subframe down and wedge it with a socket. Gives enough room for the box to slide back, leave box there, change clutch, slide back on.

 

[hipwell]

I tried that but the clips for the subframe snapped off on the first turn.

With the fronts this was not an issue because I could fit a socket in to hold the nut.

But how the hell do you do it on the rear subframe bolts? There's no way in to get a spanner or socket on the but!

 

[Dan@SJM]

You can get a spanner in there.

 

[hipwell]

a regular spanner or does it need to be modified?

i need to take my box out for a refurb soon so i think im gonna try the subframe method this time round. Do the triangle things attached to the subframe need unbolting or do they come down with the subframe?

 

[mad in general]

Yep, still need to do all of this. You still have to take the box off, just not out of the engine bay.

Except from draining coolant etc.. Sorry for all the questions just that I know I am capable of doing it if I have the right instructions.

Also, is the lower box mount infact the dogbone?

Cheers mate.

 

[Budgie]

You'll still want the rad and coolant etc out if you're doing the clutch. Just for space.

Nope, lower box mount is seperate. Passenger side where the box meets the subframe

 

[Scrooge]

You'll still want the rad and coolant etc out if you're doing the clutch. Just for space.

Nope, lower box mount is seperate. Passenger side where the box meets the subframe

Not if you do it my way, don't even need the bumper or any of the front off tbh, just inner arches and wheels.

 

[mad in general]

You'll still want the rad and coolant etc out if you're doing the clutch. Just for space.

Nope, lower box mount is seperate. Passenger side where the box meets the subframe

Not if you do it my way, don't even need the bumper or any of the front off tbh, just inner arches and wheels.

Hmmm, so guys who's method is best. Remember im a novice but perfectly capable of following instructions.

 

[Scrooge]

It's difficult to say, Mine involves less stripping but more fiddling and Mike's is less fiddling more stripping.

 

[mad in general]

You'll still want the rad and coolant etc out if you're doing the clutch. Just for space.

Nope, lower box mount is seperate. Passenger side where the box meets the subframe

It's difficult to say, Mine involves less stripping but more fiddling and Mike's is less fiddling more stripping.

Would you be kind enough to give me a quick bullet point break down?

 

[Coops Mk1]

cheers lads, I think when I do it i'll more than likely do the fiddly approach (read wrag it all about until it fits )

 

[mad in general]

cheers lads, I think when I do it i'll more than likely do the fiddly approach (read wrag it all about until it fits )

This man knows it! I think im siding with this method also.

 

[Scrooge]

Off the top of my head.

Battery Box and battery out
Airbox out
Car up on stands with wheel off
Buzz Hub nut off passenger side
ball joint passenger side off
Let oil out the box
support engine with jack and bit of wood
undo top gearbox mount
Bell housing and starter bolts
Dogbone mounts
Linkage
loosen drivers side subframe bolts
Complete undo passenger side bolts, lever down then wedge with socket, about 2.5'' gap needed
Pull box off the engine and slide back
Squeeze in and change clutch and bearing
Put back

That's roughly it.

 

[mad in general]

Off the top of my head.

Battery Box and battery out
Airbox out
Car up on stands with wheel off
Buzz Hub nut off passenger side
ball joint passenger side off
Let oil out the box
support engine with jack and bit of wood
undo top gearbox mount
Bell housing and starter bolts
Dogbone mounts
Linkage
loosen drivers side subframe bolts
Complete undo passenger side bolts, lever down then wedge with socket, about 2.5'' gap needed
Pull box off the engine and slide back
Squeeze in and change clutch and bearing
Put back

That's roughly it.

Fantastic mate, Thank you.

I guess I cant really go too far wrong. My only concern is the subframe bolts. Does the frame need to be dropped to do it or is it just to make it a bit easier?
Any tips for the subframe bolts?

 

[Scrooge]

No worries

Yes the frame has to be dropped on the passenger side but only by a couple of inches. Without that you wont get the rear end of the box at all.

 

[mad in general]

Thanks for all the replies folks. Fingers crossed eh!

If anyone has any tips for loosening/removing subframe bolts without breakage then please do let me know.

Cheers for the help!

 

[Scrooge]

Oh sorry I forgot to add that bit, I gun them off and don't have issues. You can get a spanner in there if the clip gives way though.

 

[mad in general]

Oh sorry I forgot to add that bit, I gun them off and don't have issues. You can get a spanner in there if the clip gives way though.

Cyber pint for you!

 

[matt91]

currently changing the box on my cup on the drive, i'm following this guide http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?258911-172-182-gearbox-change-clutch good guide with some pictures to help you out

 

[mad in general]

currently changing the box on my cup on the drive, i'm following this guide http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?258911-172-182-gearbox-change-clutch good guide with some pictures to help you out

Thank you mate, although I will only be fitting a clutch so no need for the box to come out.

 

[mark123]

Get some wd40 on the subframe bolts and use an impact wrench if you can get hold of one.

 

[mad in general]

That's the box out.

I removed (friend helped a great deal) the subframe and associated bits. All bolts came out nicely, no snapped clips.

Clutch is still to be fitted then the rebuild begins.

Does anyone one have any handy hints or tips to help with the rebuild? Disassembly quite frankly a pain in the arse but it's done.

 

[Budgie]

Getting the box off is easy compared to getting it back on and lined up.

Other than that, it's just reverse procedure to re-fit.

 

[mad in general]

Getting the box off is easy compared to getting it back on and lined up.

Other than that, it's just reverse procedure to re-fit.

Does it not have locating dowels that make it simple(ish)?

Oh and I never took your advice about using cardboard to sort bolts out, I have a bag of bolts and bits that's going to be a complete pain! I am going to separate them into a pile of what I do know and what I don't.

 

[Scrooge]

Locating dowels only help once the box is most of the way on. Lining the clutch up the very best you can is the most helpful thing you can do.

 

[AlexW]

The studs help with lining it up a bit, but still have to it get it spot on. You'll need a hand.

 

[Budgie]

Yeah, the studs make it easier , but getting the back one on can sometimes be a pig. Once it's on both studs, simple. Just slide it up (as long as the clutch is aligned properly),


If you get stuck with any bolts, post up a pic of them. One of us losers will recognise them I'm sure.