Cool pack light + Los of power

[shaun442k]

On the way home tonight I had the squiggly coil light come on (not flashing) and a loss of power.
I pulled into the petrol station, filled up(42 litres so the car wasn't empty) and the light didn't come back on. The car drove normally the rest of my way home.

I assume this is ignition related. I noticed over the last couple of weeks the idles lumpy when warm. I replaced the spark plugs for the correct ngk ones a couple of months back so I doubt it will be this.

I'll start with the coilpack as this is easiest to replace- eurocarparts have 2. An "aftermarket" and a "bremi" one.
Which one should I get, assuming this is my issue?

 

[shaun442k]

In case anyone has the same symptoms in the future, i'll keep this updated...
I bought the GSF coilpack for £29 today. My car seems to run smoother, and the idle is definitely better. I'm not 100% sure my issue has been sorted(as the light has only come on once), but my car is running better.

Strangely, the 5k rpm "kick" has now gone. Perhaps it was more noticeable as the coil pack was playing up?

 

[shaun442k]

Ok, the light came up again yesterday, so I guess it's time to get it booked in somewhere(or codes read by an RSTuner, but I don't have one, nor a laptop).

 

[charltjr]

Yeah, code read is the next step.

Where are you?

 

[shaun442k]

Cambridgeshire.

 

[charltjr]

Sorry mate, if you were local I would have read the codes for you but I'm in Berkshire.

 

[shaun442k]

So on the way home tonight the engine management light came on as well as the coil pack light. The car went into limp home mode.
I managed to get it out of limp mode after 4-5 restarts, but the engine management light is still on.

I read the codes using my cheapo reader and it came back with "P0120- Powertrain Throttle/Pedal position/Switch A Circuit".

Guess I'll start with the throttle body, then the pedal, then a specialist?

 

[shaun442k]

Right, another update.
I cleaned all the connections I could find, took the pedal off, opened it up and cleaned it, then did the same with the throttle body. I couldn't find anything wrong with these.
Then I saw a connector at the front of the engine- the wiring had been badly repaired before and two of the wires were touching. I stripped the wires back and put a load of insulating tape around them(White tape in the pic).
So far the engine is running much better- it started first time this morning(instead of starting and then cutting out) and was nowhere near as rouigh during the 1st 2 mins(whilst the car is in the cold map).

The emissions light is still on- 20 mins with the battery disconnected didn't clear this, but i've heard it goes off after about 150 miles or so? I'll wait a few days and see if this happens.

 

[krappy]

That's the power steering pressure switch iirc. Not sure if that would be what was causing your issue though? I had a similar issue to what you describe and after cleaning throttle body/pedal connectors, fuse box, relays, ecu pins etc haven't had it come back since.

 

[shaun442k]

I had a similar issue to what you describe and after cleaning throttle body/pedal connectors, fuse box, relays, ecu pins etc haven't had it come back since.

That's my next step I think.

 

[krappy]

Also check the engine loom for signs of any chaffed/broken wiring...

 

[Dan@SJM]

It won't be the pedal or body. Take it to @MicKPM at diamond, his bill will be less than it will be for you to just replace stuff on a punt.