Curious Steering...

[magic354]

So I'm about 3,000 miles into my 182 ownership now and have been slowly working round the different components of the car bringing them back to life and next on the list is the steering.

The car appears to get easily 'pulled' into grooves in the road surface, and requires a lot of counter steering to keep it going where I want it to go; it also struggles over rough surfaces again with the steering wheel moving around all over the shot. Occasionally when the VVT kicks in it will also have a little wiggle if its in 1st or 2nd.

From my tests so far, I believe the track rod ends are getting past it, but by no means seem as bad as some of the others I have heard on here, so I shall get a set of those fitted- but I am also wondering if I should just fit the inners too at the same time as opposed to changing the ends and seeing if it improves?

From what I gather, changing the steering rack bushes is a massive ball ache...

Is it worth doing a full steering refresh?

 

[leeds2592]

Could be numerous things tbh, something as simple as alignment or tyre size but could be something a bit more involved like TRE, tie rods, rack bushes, ball joints etc.

If you're changing the TRE's, whilst you're there you may as well change the inner tie rods at the same time. That's what I did and I'll also be replacing the wishbones and ball joints.

 

[PP200t]

Tyre pressures ok? These are very sensitive to the correct tyre pressures.
Checking the above is a very good call.

 

[mantis946]

Standard offset wheels and/or spacers fitted ?

 

[magic354]

Good comments, forgot about the extra info. Standard Cup Pack wheels, 205/45/R16 PS3s with around 6mm all round. No spacers. I run 33/30 psi front/rear pressures when cold.

I have thought about doing the alignment, but my main hesitation is if I do the alignment and nothing improves, and I then end up changing parts, I'll have to get the alignment done again. The steering rack itself should have plenty of life left in it at 73k shouldn't it?

From my searching you need a special tool to change the inner rods? I dont supposed this is something my local garage will have. Has anyone got experience changing the rack bushes in situ?

 

[PP200t]

I would think a garage would have either a proper tool for the inner rods or would've made something. Probably a spanner head at an angle or something.
I agree on the tracking though, check other bits first and then that.

 

[obcuz]

That effect you get is similar to that I have with my car, although perhaps the effect is not as bad as you describe -or maybe I'm just used to it, I also have 205/45/R16 PS3s fitted incidentally
I think this it is not uncommon on 182s, I have changed track rods and ends, springs, dampers, alignments and never seen ANY change in this behaviour, I think it is aggravated by the castor angle, I always though it may be worth experimenting with toe, but never did get around to it myself, just living with it and only do a small mileage so not a big deal.
The 'wiggle' you get changing gear 'on the cam' sounds normal to me for FWD.

 

[c4pob]

Bearing in mind the likely age of the 182 it could be the suspension rubbers/bushes have worn or the track rods need doing? Getting the tracking checked is an obvious place to start.

 

[leeds2592]

205's apparently tram line more than 195's so that may be contributing to your issue.

You need a fan spanner cut in half to get the tie rods off although when I tried this I couldn't get enough leverage on it to get it undone. Got one of the tools off ebay that slips over the tie rod and had it off within seconds.

Tbf, these cars are getting old now so things will start failing so it's always worth doing the tie rods and ends etc then getting it properly aligned.

 

[leeds2592]

Oh and Jack the car up, get underneath and have someone go from lock to lock so you can look for movement in the bushes.

I thought my problem stemed from the rack bushes but when I checked they were solid as a rock.

 

[magic354]

I would think a garage would have either a proper tool for the inner rods or would've made something. Probably a spanner head at an angle or something.
I agree on the tracking though, check other bits first and then that.

I didn't realise it was more of a general tool as tool, I thought it was 182 specific, that sounds more promising.

That effect you get is similar to that I have with my car, although perhaps the effect is not as bad as you describe -or maybe I'm just used to it, I also have 205/45/R16 PS3s fitted incidentally
I think this it is not uncommon on 182s, I have changed track rods and ends, springs, dampers, alignments and never seen ANY change in this behaviour, I think it is aggravated by the castor angle, I always though it may be worth experimenting with toe, but never did get around to it myself, just living with it and only do a small mileage so not a big deal.
The 'wiggle' you get changing gear 'on the cam' sounds normal to me for FWD.

Feels completely different to my 197, maybe its just the extra weight, but literally feels worlds apart. Full throttle in 1st in the 197 is nothing haha. Although, its a little disheartening that you have changed so much and still experience it.

Bearing in mind the likely age of the 182 it could be the suspension rubbers/bushes have worn or the track rods need doing? Getting the tracking checked is an obvious place to start.

Definitely agree with you here and I have been considering doing a full bush swap- spent 20 odd hours doing that on my Mk1 MX5 and the difference is incredible.

Oh and Jack the car up, get underneath and have someone go from lock to lock so you can look for movement in the bushes.

I thought my problem stemed from the rack bushes but when I checked they were solid as a rock.

You make an interesting point about the tyres, I wasn't aware people run 195s.... And good tip RE checking the bushes, shall do that on the weekend.

 

[mantis946]

If memory serves this is the spanner you need for the rod ends, got mine from here and it got my PH1 ends off without any issues:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/laser-fan-spanner-32-36mm

 

[STEVE.M]

Plenty of tie removal tools on eBay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-inch-...269861?hash=item543ab62aa5:g:eOwAAOSwPCVX-GpY

Either get OE boot & tie rod kit from RPD ( the boots are so much better than aftermarket parts ) or if you must buy aftermarket tie rods and are offered a choice of length, it`s the longer
330 mm total length you need for the SMI hydraulic racks fitted as standard on all pH2 172/182 `s.

Also if you have camber adjustable front shocks/bolts, get the camber set before tackling the alignment.
@magic354 @leeds2592 @PP172

 

[magic354]

Plenty of tie removal tools on eBay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-inch-...269861?hash=item543ab62aa5:g:eOwAAOSwPCVX-GpY

Either get OE boot & tie rod kit from RPD ( the boots are so much better than aftermarket parts ) or if you must buy aftermarket tie rods and are offered a choice of length, it`s the longer
330 mm total length you need for the SMI hydraulic racks fitted as standard on all pH2 172/182 `s.

Also if you have camber adjustable front shocks/bolts, get the camber set before tackling the alignment.
@magic354 @leeds2592 @PP172

Thanks for the tips, will only be using genuine Renault parts from RPD. And standard stocks, no camber.