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Discs and pads thickness
- Thread starter skini
- Start date
Brakes
172/182/Cup/Trophys
They all run the same brakes and pads. The front setup is 280mm disks (some other Renaults run the same disk). The normal Renault pads are a good compromise of wear cost etc. There about £45 from Renault and there is a guide on how to change them in the guides section. It won't take more than about 40 minutes to do both sides. At the release of the 182 a new pad was used this has chamfers on both edges and should help to reduce squeel from the pad although it does mean that for the first third of the pads life the whole pad isn't in contact with the disk. This superceeded the 172 pad but the same pad fits the 172. The normal brakes can fit behind 15 inch wheels without any problem.
The rear brakes are 238mm disks with bearings installed in them. The pads from new are only 6mm so if they look thin its not a problem. The rear disk and pads don't wear down much at all in use.
If you have an ABS equipt car and want to check there pressures then they should be checked with a 75% full tank and a driver the front. They should be checked by two pressure gauages arranged in an X formation the front should be pressed so that it reads 100 bars the back checked to read 38 bars (with a tolerance of -0 +18). It can be adjusted by playing with the brake compensator.
The 172 Cup since there is no ABS has a brake pressure regulator there no adjustment so when the front is 100 bar the rear should read 24 (tolerance of +1 -3) if it doesn't then the compensator should be replaced. You can tell therefreo the rear brakes on the 172 don't do much so corrosion is more likely unless its driven hard even now and again.
Upgrades.
Brake lines - The standard brakes lines will expland when the fluid in them gets hot reducing there effectivness. New braided lines are about £50.
Ducting - The Cup race cars run ducting where the fog lights are. The price for these is about £200 though so. Therefore there not cheap at all. Demon Tweeks sell ducting for much less which you could modify to fit
Pads. The most common and popular is to change for a set of DS2500 (£85 or so) or DS300/PF97 (PF97 are used by the Cup race teams). They are about £130 for a set. These pads work with the standard disk no need for any fancy groved etc disks. The PF 97 and DS3000 are much harder than the standard ones and so wear of the normal disk will be higher this is why the use OE brembo disks is a good ideas as these have wear indicators. People often find they were though disks faster than the pads on DS300 and PF97. With disks with wear indicators you can easily see how much wear the disks have had as its more likly the disk will wear out before the pads. To install these pads you are best removing the anti squeel rattle plate on the calipers (its the big of metal which sits between the pad and the caliper for space the plate doens't do very much anyway so its no loss).
A more expensive upgrade is to Brembo etc 4 pots with bigger disks. This is expensive with costs running to about £1.2k
Note for 182 owners - The normal alloy wheels on the 182 are terriable at allowing the brakes to cool the best idea is to change the alloys for better cooling as well as the above upgrades.
Williams
1.8 16V
Mk2 phase 2 Clio (excluding 1.28V)
Mk2 phase 1, 1.6 16V models
All the list of cars above run 259mm disks at the front (some people call them 260mm but there the same). They all can use the same pads brake lines and upgrades etc. They can fit behind 14 inch wheels.
The normal setup is quite good so long as it is in good condition. Obviuosly the more powerful cars will under track driving have more fade but even under track use the stock setup can hold up reasonable well in the powefrul models after all the Williams had 150hhp and had the same brakes which were deemed as fine. New original spec pads are FDB 845 (Halfords for £17) and changed in about 40 minutes. If you shop around you can get cheaper pads Halfords sell their own branded ones for £15 and specialist sell them for £12 or so.
Upgrades
Pads - The popular option is to change for a set of DS2500 or similar. These pads work with the standard disk no need for any fancy groved etc disks. The pads are much harder than the standard ones and so wear of the normal disk will be higher.
Disks -
Personally I'd always recomend stock disks. Groved or drilled ones crack after time or hard driving and are more expensive the only advantage as far as I see is they look different.
Bigger disk - K-Tec (some others apparently although I've never seen any for sale) sell an uprated bigger disk setup which has brackets so that the normal calipers fit round the biger fancy disks. These do look good however they aren't much better than the stock setup for track use as the normal calipers can only disipate so much heat effectivly. However with this setup the smallest size alloy you can use is 15's and you have to be careful about where the wheel balancing has been done as the caliper can catch on the wheel weights.
New calipers - Mark at Richspeed used to sells upgrade 4 pot WiIllwood brakes which work with either the standard disks or for a bit more the 280mm disk from the 172/182. However you don't need the bigger disks with these better calipers the only reason to get them is if you have big alloys and the small disks can look out of proportion. These brakes are a popular upgrade for WIlliams owners as even tunned models using the weeker road pads you'd find it impossible to fade them. There about £360 though for the small disks kit. Although there not cheap they are the best. Howver as of present Mark and Richspeed companny itself seems to have disappeared. You could build a pot setup yourself the only two bits which don't come off the sheelf as such are the brakcets to join the caliper and hub and the brake line. The brackets wold cost about £60 to make by an engineeering company and the brake lines can be ordered from the caliper manurfactueresyou just have to know what lenght you want to order.
K-tec/Yozzasport along with a few other companies etc do sell upgrades 4 or more pot brakes but there much more money again.
All other cars ie Mk1 (not WIlliams/1.8 16V's) and none Mk2 phase (excluding 1.6 16V) and Mk2 phase 2 8V models.
These cars all run the 238mm disks they can and are often upgraded to the 259mm brakes by the simple option of changing the brake brackets and (I belive but never checked) the caliper. Also you'd need the bigger disk and preferably new pads.
All cars
Fluid - Good fluid and a throurgh bleeding of the brakes makes a huge difference to the brakes. Demon Tweeks etc sell a huge range usually the moe expensive the better. Only DOT 4 is needed. 5.1 whist a better fluid needs changing every month so isn't a suitable choice.
Groved etc disks seem more prone to cracking and filling with brake dust reducing there effectivness.
Changing brake lines for braided ones is a popular choice it thelps keep the pedal more firm as the pipe is stronger when the brake fluid is hot.
172/182/Cup/Trophys
They all run the same brakes and pads. The front setup is 280mm disks (some other Renaults run the same disk). The normal Renault pads are a good compromise of wear cost etc. There about £45 from Renault and there is a guide on how to change them in the guides section. It won't take more than about 40 minutes to do both sides. At the release of the 182 a new pad was used this has chamfers on both edges and should help to reduce squeel from the pad although it does mean that for the first third of the pads life the whole pad isn't in contact with the disk. This superceeded the 172 pad but the same pad fits the 172. The normal brakes can fit behind 15 inch wheels without any problem.
The rear brakes are 238mm disks with bearings installed in them. The pads from new are only 6mm so if they look thin its not a problem. The rear disk and pads don't wear down much at all in use.
If you have an ABS equipt car and want to check there pressures then they should be checked with a 75% full tank and a driver the front. They should be checked by two pressure gauages arranged in an X formation the front should be pressed so that it reads 100 bars the back checked to read 38 bars (with a tolerance of -0 +18). It can be adjusted by playing with the brake compensator.
The 172 Cup since there is no ABS has a brake pressure regulator there no adjustment so when the front is 100 bar the rear should read 24 (tolerance of +1 -3) if it doesn't then the compensator should be replaced. You can tell therefreo the rear brakes on the 172 don't do much so corrosion is more likely unless its driven hard even now and again.
Upgrades.
Brake lines - The standard brakes lines will expland when the fluid in them gets hot reducing there effectivness. New braided lines are about £50.
Ducting - The Cup race cars run ducting where the fog lights are. The price for these is about £200 though so. Therefore there not cheap at all. Demon Tweeks sell ducting for much less which you could modify to fit
Pads. The most common and popular is to change for a set of DS2500 (£85 or so) or DS300/PF97 (PF97 are used by the Cup race teams). They are about £130 for a set. These pads work with the standard disk no need for any fancy groved etc disks. The PF 97 and DS3000 are much harder than the standard ones and so wear of the normal disk will be higher this is why the use OE brembo disks is a good ideas as these have wear indicators. People often find they were though disks faster than the pads on DS300 and PF97. With disks with wear indicators you can easily see how much wear the disks have had as its more likly the disk will wear out before the pads. To install these pads you are best removing the anti squeel rattle plate on the calipers (its the big of metal which sits between the pad and the caliper for space the plate doens't do very much anyway so its no loss).
A more expensive upgrade is to Brembo etc 4 pots with bigger disks. This is expensive with costs running to about £1.2k
Note for 182 owners - The normal alloy wheels on the 182 are terriable at allowing the brakes to cool the best idea is to change the alloys for better cooling as well as the above upgrades.
Williams
1.8 16V
Mk2 phase 2 Clio (excluding 1.28V)
Mk2 phase 1, 1.6 16V models
All the list of cars above run 259mm disks at the front (some people call them 260mm but there the same). They all can use the same pads brake lines and upgrades etc. They can fit behind 14 inch wheels.
The normal setup is quite good so long as it is in good condition. Obviuosly the more powerful cars will under track driving have more fade but even under track use the stock setup can hold up reasonable well in the powefrul models after all the Williams had 150hhp and had the same brakes which were deemed as fine. New original spec pads are FDB 845 (Halfords for £17) and changed in about 40 minutes. If you shop around you can get cheaper pads Halfords sell their own branded ones for £15 and specialist sell them for £12 or so.
Upgrades
Pads - The popular option is to change for a set of DS2500 or similar. These pads work with the standard disk no need for any fancy groved etc disks. The pads are much harder than the standard ones and so wear of the normal disk will be higher.
Disks -
Personally I'd always recomend stock disks. Groved or drilled ones crack after time or hard driving and are more expensive the only advantage as far as I see is they look different.
Bigger disk - K-Tec (some others apparently although I've never seen any for sale) sell an uprated bigger disk setup which has brackets so that the normal calipers fit round the biger fancy disks. These do look good however they aren't much better than the stock setup for track use as the normal calipers can only disipate so much heat effectivly. However with this setup the smallest size alloy you can use is 15's and you have to be careful about where the wheel balancing has been done as the caliper can catch on the wheel weights.
New calipers - Mark at Richspeed used to sells upgrade 4 pot WiIllwood brakes which work with either the standard disks or for a bit more the 280mm disk from the 172/182. However you don't need the bigger disks with these better calipers the only reason to get them is if you have big alloys and the small disks can look out of proportion. These brakes are a popular upgrade for WIlliams owners as even tunned models using the weeker road pads you'd find it impossible to fade them. There about £360 though for the small disks kit. Although there not cheap they are the best. Howver as of present Mark and Richspeed companny itself seems to have disappeared. You could build a pot setup yourself the only two bits which don't come off the sheelf as such are the brakcets to join the caliper and hub and the brake line. The brackets wold cost about £60 to make by an engineeering company and the brake lines can be ordered from the caliper manurfactueresyou just have to know what lenght you want to order.
K-tec/Yozzasport along with a few other companies etc do sell upgrades 4 or more pot brakes but there much more money again.
All other cars ie Mk1 (not WIlliams/1.8 16V's) and none Mk2 phase (excluding 1.6 16V) and Mk2 phase 2 8V models.
These cars all run the 238mm disks they can and are often upgraded to the 259mm brakes by the simple option of changing the brake brackets and (I belive but never checked) the caliper. Also you'd need the bigger disk and preferably new pads.
All cars
Fluid - Good fluid and a throurgh bleeding of the brakes makes a huge difference to the brakes. Demon Tweeks etc sell a huge range usually the moe expensive the better. Only DOT 4 is needed. 5.1 whist a better fluid needs changing every month so isn't a suitable choice.
Groved etc disks seem more prone to cracking and filling with brake dust reducing there effectivness.
Changing brake lines for braided ones is a popular choice it thelps keep the pedal more firm as the pipe is stronger when the brake fluid is hot.
