DIY rear brake change?

[Rob_f]

Hi Guys,

I plan to send the old man to pick up the necessary items. Can someone confirm exactly what parts are required to change the rear pads and discs?

Much appreciated

 

[Soot1e]

What car do you have? it's a vague question. Usually just the pads and the discs, a can of brake cleaner will help degreasing.

 

[DrR]

Don't do what i did the first time and just rip the little spring metal bits off the pads, you need those!

 

[theduck]

Gonna take a wild guess and say its a 172/182? Make sure the new disc have ABS rings in already.

 

[robbygraham]

Changed my rear discs and pads yesterday, you need a 17mm spanner to undo the callipers to get the disc out, a 30mm socket to undo the bolt in the middle of the disc, some heavy duty grease, and some pliers.

 

[clancy]

rear pads and discs lol, just a matter of straight swap. spanner and socket required as above ^
bit of brake cleaner on the disc and some copper grease on the new pads if you have any

 

[Rob_f]

Thank you guys, sorry for the vague question, the thread was wrote in a hurry before work.

I own a 182, a friend is helping, I just wanted to make sure I have everything ready.

Any other tips or hints?

 

[Rob_f]

Gonna take a wild guess and say its a 172/182? Make sure the new disc have ABS rings in already.

How will I know if they have the ABS rings in already?

 

[ForceIndia]

It's a toothed ring near the centre of the disc, back surface iirc.

 

[Soot1e]

Have a look at them when you buy them or ask the parts man. And buy the ones with the wheel bearing already fitted, the chances are they will need doing as well. OE's are plenty good enough.

 

[Rob_f]

It's a toothed ring near the centre of the disc, back surface iirc.

Have a look at them when you buy them or ask the parts man. And buy the ones with the wheel bearing already fitted, the chances are they will need doing as well. OE's are plenty good enough.

Ok thanks chaps, my dad has already picked some OE's up. I'll have to check them tomorrow for the abs ring and bearings.

 

[Rob_f]

How do you get at the lower bolt on the caliper? it's obstructed by the caliper itself?

 

[Fred@BTM]

you don't touch the caliper, just the pad carrier (2x17mm bolts)

you MUST use a torque wrench on the rear huub nuts otherwise you might die

 

[.Stevo.C.]

^^ Lol yes. Fred is the torque setting for the 172 the same as the williams on the rear?.

 

[Fred@BTM]

175nm

 

[Rob_f]

The torque rench will fit, it's as if the caliper is too far over

 

[Fred@BTM]

what durgs you on? 1x30mm hub nut and 2x17mm bolts = done

 

[Rob_f]

The socket will not fit. It's obstructed by the caliper

 

[Fred@BTM]

which bolt are you trying to undo?

 

[Rob_f]

The lower bolt on the pad carrier. Top came off no problems

 

[Fred@BTM]

you have to tap the lower pad retaining plate out the way

 

[Rob_f]

Solved, thanks much!

 

[Rob_f]

Slowest brake change in history. The piston will no budge back far enough. any ideas?

 

[Fred@BTM]

you turned it back in?

 

[Rob_f]

No, how do I go about turning it in?

 

[Fred@BTM]

put a flat screw driver across the face, push and turn clockwise

 

[Matt W]

There is a detailed thread in the 'how to' section. It'll cost you £10

 

[Rob_f]

All solved, thanks to everyone who helped.

 

[Fred@BTM]

invoice is in the post!

hope you fitted the nobble on the back of the pads into the piston correctly!!! oh AND torqued the hub nuts (very important, or you could die)

 

[Rob_f]

invoice is in the post!

hope you fitted the nobble on the back of the pads into the piston correctly!!! oh AND torqued the hub nuts (very important, or you could die)

Haha, I owe you a beer. They will be torqued correctly tomorrow, it was past dark when we got past the piston problem.

 

[koi]

Just had a look at my rear pads, is it normal for the pad on the inside to wear faster? Only done 20k so didn't think they would need changing again so soon.

 

[W111ALG]

When mine wore more on the inside it was cause the caliper sliders weren't , erm sliding!