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DIY spraying inside of car - Tell me know



GrahamS

ClioSport Club Member
As part of my new track car build I'm planning to spray the inside of my car. I did it with a brush last time and vowed to never do it again. Whilst I've done body work in the past it's always been with other peoples equipment instead of my own so this will be a first. I don't want to spend much and want to paint the interior in gloss black/dark grey. The compressor I've got is up to the job and I'll be getting a Erbauer ERN643ATL which should be up to the job.

My questions are as follows

Do I need primer?
What's the best paint to use? 2k?
How much time should I leave between coats as I will of course not be baking the car like you would in a proper paint booth.

Tips tips tips!
Thanks
 

massivewangers

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
I did the inside of my car. Used 2k paint. It wasn't the worst job. I did prime first. I have tried to paint with rattle cans before, but it wasn't as durable as 2k.

My main advice would be to avoid white. It looks nice when you first do it, but it's a pain in the arse because it shows every mark.
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 182
As part of my new track car build I'm planning to spray the inside of my car. I did it with a brush last time and vowed to never do it again. Whilst I've done body work in the past it's always been with other peoples equipment instead of my own so this will be a first. I don't want to spend much and want to paint the interior in gloss black/dark grey. The compressor I've got is up to the job and I'll be getting a Erbauer ERN643ATL which should be up to the job.

My questions are as follows

Do I need primer?
What's the best paint to use? 2k?
How much time should I leave between coats as I will of course not be baking the car like you would in a proper paint booth.

Tips tips tips!
Thanks

Ok so you said you brush painted the first time? Did you key the origional paint before brush painting the colour you applied. Also what type of paint did you use. 2k will reach with certain paints.

If you keyed the origional paint I would get a cheap orbital sander with some 400grit discs and take the top off the paint anywhere the sander will reach, saves hours and you will keep your finger tips intact. Then finish off the harder to reach areas by hand and scotch brite.
Use panel wipe and lint free cloth to clean the area to with in an inch of its life.
Mask up or remove anything/where you dont want to paint.
Then mix your paint and start painting with the roof working your way down as the over spray will land at the bottom making it dry and rough but as you paint the floor it will disappear.
If you start at the bottom and work up it will leave dry over spray on your fresh shiney paintwork.

My own personal best tip would be to get some matting agent and finish anywhere front of the driver in matt at head height to stop the shine from the sun
 

GrahamS

ClioSport Club Member
I did the inside of my car. Used 2k paint. It wasn't the worst job. I did prime first. I have tried to paint with rattle cans before, but it wasn't as durable as 2k.

My main advice would be to avoid white. It looks nice when you first do it, but it's a pain in the arse because it shows every mark.
That's what I want to hear! Did you clear coat over the top of the base, how long between your coats and how many coats?

Learnt from my current white one! Won't be doing that again. Looked amazing when I did it. Awful to live with.

4E94BEBF-98B8-470E-8F53-5C8391006FC0_zpsbdz07vzt.jpg
 

massivewangers

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
It does look so good in white, but it just doesn't stay that way. I didn't clear coat when I did mine, but it can help. Old works Fords were lacquered under the bonnet because it helped prevent staining.

I think I left about half an hour between coats. I only did two.
 

GrahamS

ClioSport Club Member
Ok so you said you brush painted the first time? Did you key the origional paint before brush painting the colour you applied. Also what type of paint did you use. 2k will reach with certain paints.

If you keyed the origional paint I would get a cheap orbital sander with some 400grit discs and take the top off the paint anywhere the sander will reach, saves hours and you will keep your finger tips intact. Then finish off the harder to reach areas by hand and scotch brite.
Use panel wipe and lint free cloth to clean the area to with in an inch of its life.
Mask up or remove anything/where you dont want to paint.
Then mix your paint and start painting with the roof working your way down as the over spray will land at the bottom making it dry and rough but as you paint the floor it will disappear.
If you start at the bottom and work up it will leave dry over spray on your fresh shiney paintwork.

My own personal best tip would be to get some matting agent and finish anywhere front of the driver in matt at head height to stop the shine from the sun
Thanks for the reply. Previous one I did with hammerite, took forever! I did something very similar to the prep you list last time, just didn't spray it. Looking to speed up the process this time. No specific need for clear, would just like to have it looking good.
 

massivewangers

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
I use the smooth silver on brake calipers 😂
I'll give you that, it's ok on cast brake calipers.

I wouldn't use it for anything else though I don't think. VHT aerosols are pretty good for painting odd mechanical bits, though powder coat is the ultimate.
 

bloke

ClioSport Club Member
  dan's cast offs.
rustoleum hard hat for aerosols. plus just about anything eastwood and por do is good as well. only vht i ever use is the wrinkle finish. tried their calliper paint once and would of been better i i would of drank some paint and pissed it on!!!!!!!!
 


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