Do ABS Sensors need to be "matched" to the car?

[Bob the Frog]

Long time no see

My old 172 is in the process of having all it's niggles ironed out prior to selling it... and the ABS light problem is one that I aim to nip in the bud.

The ABS light comes on intermittently, and I suspect it's a break in the wire on the Offside front. Where the wire enters the sensor the wire's casing is entirely through... it looks as dodgy as Mittens Romney. My OBD2 reader doesn't come up with any specific ABS related errors. From what I understand, I only need a dodgy wire to cause a momentary break in the circuit, and the ABS and service light will come on instantly. Is correct... no?

The local place wanted literally 40 times more for a sensor than E-bay could do for a Ph1 172 sensor, (so I got one from Fleabay). Before I start the potentially destructive surgery of removing the sensor from the hub-carrier, I'd just like re-assurance that the ABS computer won't tell me to piss off and fork out a huge wedge of cash to the local Volvo bods. (it's them who deal with Renault here :dapprove.

So um... One Hall.sensor is pretty much the same as another right?

While I wait patiently from some quality clio.net hand-holding, there's a nappy that needs changing. :approve:

 

[mr.pink87]

Sensor doesn't need to be calibrated/initialised in the ABS ECU. But personally i'd stay away from cheap ebay sensors.

 

[Bob the Frog]

Thanks Mr Pink

The price I was quoted for a new sensor from the dealership was literally 10% of what I expect to get in a worst-case scenario sale of the car... so really not a viable option. I too tend to steer clear of cheapo bits, but in this case I sadly have little choice. All Reviews of the ABS sensors the E-shop supplied were good, so I figured 10 quid was better than 400. At least if it doesn't work it's only a tenner I've wasted!

 

[jenic]

It's also worth taking what you have apart and cleaning the connections up. That's what was wrong with mine.

 

[Bob the Frog]

It's also worth taking what you have apart and cleaning the connections up. That's what was wrong with mine.

-Are you referring to the connections on the sensors, or elsewhere? ... if so, Where is the damned computer?

Cheers,

/N

 

[jenic]

I mean the connections on the sensor.

 

[Bob the Frog]

Jolly good I have checked the lot already... time to get that old sensor out then I guess

 

[Bob the Frog]

I *think* I may have found the problem - though as the fault is only intermittent and pops us out of the blue, I'll have to wait until I've put a few km on it to be sure.

I was ab out to start hoiking out the sensor, but decided it was a good idea to double checked the readings I was getting from the sensor and give the suspected weak point in the wiring a hard time. NO change to the readings what so ever. The wire is intact.
I had read somewhere else that a new exhaust install may have "damaged a wire" on someone else's ABS problems thread, so I went to investigate mine. Just as a matter of caution, I found and opened up the "waterproof" connector for the two rear sensors where the under-car loom joins the engine bay loom by the rear subframe mounts. I found 4 green and Seriously crusted copper pins. So I scraped them clean, tweaked them slightly off center, squirted some WD into the female side, and mentally played some slap-bass guitar in my head as I worked them in and out of each other. awwwww yeah.

The level of corrosion there was huge, and I can easily imagine it being bad enough to cause a duff signal from time to time. Having thrashed the car up and down our private road/driveway, I've not been able to get the fault to pop up again.

TLR
The 4-pin connector where subframe meets shell for the rear ABS sensors was heavily corroded. Have cleaned it, and think it might have solved the problem
Obviously if it hasn't, I'll be back