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Engine Bay Removables??? Tidy up

simondavies89

simondavies89

Car  clio 182
Hi,

Just curious and hoping to make some room in the engine bay. What can be removed or repositioned. things like the air-con delete kit, battery reposition?

Ive got a 182 with a turbo kit and the engine bays on clios are always full to the brim and even more so now==. im looking at ways to free up abit of space.

I was looking at buying the air-con kit and it made me wonder if anything else could be tidied up?

if any one has done anything id be interested for ideas.

Cheers
 
Get rid of the power steering is a good plan on a turbo as it gets rid of not just the untidy looking bottle but also lots of pipes that follow similar routes to the intercooler pipework etc.

Aircon is another one of course.

Battery in the boot.

Servo and brake reservoir if you fit a pedal box
 
It removes all the original power steering.

Think chip has done it, few others have aswell, it's compact and fits with your tie rods to get the required length track

Just needs wiring in. Fairly easy
 
Sorry mate, wasnt really clear enough there, yes I meant remove and replace with EPAS, easiest to do at the same time as doing the swap over to cup (non aircon) setup.

The rack is a bit smaller, it gets rid of all the pipes, it removes the power steering pump, it removes the fluid bottle.

So quite a big deal in terms of tidying up the bay, probably more than the aircon does if anything.
 
One of the nicest on the forum IMO.
aga4uha6.webp
 
ben_r1 said:
What's involved in retro fitting the EPAS rack? I'd love to bin my poxy whining PAS pump!
Click to expand...

On a ph1 its a bit of a big as the motor doesnt really fit as such, on a ph2 its a bit simpler.

There is a big thread on here about it already:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?687703-EPAS-on-172-Cup


As far as I am aware im the only one to do it on a ph1, although mine isnt quite finished yet, it does work fundamentally, just havent tidied it up and figured out how to get heat to the drivers side vent yet!
 
Chip-mk1 said:
On a ph1 its a bit of a big as the motor doesnt really fit as such, on a ph2 its a bit simpler.

There is a big thread on here about it already:
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?687703-EPAS-on-172-Cup


As far as I am aware im the only one to do it on a ph1, although mine isnt quite finished yet, it does work fundamentally, just havent tidied it up and figured out how to get heat to the drivers side vent yet!
Click to expand...

Skidmarx has fitted it to his ph1 done a really good job to and the drive is superb.
 
The Russian. said:
Skidmarx has fitted it to his ph1 done a really good job to and the drive is superb.
Click to expand...

Oh cool, is he still on full ph1 dash? Its only the dash side of things that is a bit of a pain, in a stripped car it would make no difference its ph1 or ph2.

If so I'd be interested in pictures of what he did with the heater pipework, might be better than what Im planning!
 
Chip-mk1 said:
Oh cool, is he still on full ph1 dash? Its only the dash side of things that is a bit of a pain, in a stripped car it would make no difference its ph1 or ph2.

If so I'd be interested in pictures of what he did with the heater pipework, might be better than what Im planning!
Click to expand...
SkidMarx

He will tell you a lot more chip, I'm planning it for mine. He's still running ph1 dash, with a adjustment knob where the t/c button should be.
 
Nah im on T7 heater mate so heater pipes were no issue, the only other issue on a Ph1 is the Squib is slightly different, doesnt quite fit onto the EPAS column properley, Just had to grind a little notch to make it fit 100%
 
some interesting stuff. ecu and battery relocation, air con delete and fitting an epas rack sounds like it would make a big difference. gona have to do some looking into, and stupid question asking to be able to do it coz im not the most experienced to say the least

is this possible for someone like me with guidance or not lol.
 
What's the deal with relocating the ECU?

One assumes you'd just put it the other side of the bulk head, but is there enough cable to do it or is there lots of lengthening to do?

I dream of a tidy engine bay now the car isn't on the road any more - PAS and Aircon are the first bit's I think will go, followed shortly by the battery going in the boot. I'm more interested in making access easier than aesthetics.
 
Make a custom or a modified original loom to put the fuse box under the scuttle which then leaves a great space for a huge air filter.

Mount the coolant bottle next to the passenger strut too (only two small pipes to change.

Carbon canister removal and associated pipework.

Acoustic valve and pipework.

An extreme is cup racer engine mounts (solid) as they hold from the bottom.

Instead of a cup alternator setup get a cup racer bracket or a Volvo/Renault 5/williams bracket that will save even more room for intercooler and piping.
 
i have an after market under the glove box running the turbo conversion but have the stock for dash and DBW still, what would be the easiest place to relocate it?
 
There is no easy place as the loom wont really reach anywhere else.
As mentioned in the thread already you could try and get it the other side of the bulkhead if it will fit there.

Getting rid of it would be the best bet, could get rid of loads of the wiring too, but would obviously be a big job wiring wise to remove it and then get aftermarket which is capable of replacing its functions like the FBW if yours cant
 
if i did the steering conversion, (beware of stupid questions) is it done without removing/moving the engine? with the turbo kit instaled and very litle room could i still remove all the old pipework correctly?

and this alternator setup spoken about earlier, would the air con delete kit with new bracket do the same thing?

and how much benefit and noticable space do you actual get from removing the acoustic valve?
 
You can do the steering conversion with the engine still in, but its quite akward.

You have the advantage though compared to someone replacing it all like for like, that you can just cut all the pipes to get it out more easily!

I would go for a cup setup if doing aircon delete, nice simple small belt and no tensioners etc (other than the alternator adjuster) its the most reliable setup you can put on.
 
what do i need for the cup setup?

im probably gona tackle the air con delete and battery replacement first as these seem to be the easiest for someone with my capability ha, then il look more into the steering.
 
I was going to speak to PMS and see if their PAS idler can be used with their standard Aircon delete kit (ie. not the whole expensive lightweight pulley kit).

It seems like a nicer solution and no messing around finding new alternators, obscure belts etc.
 
simondavies89 said:
what do i need for the cup setup?
Click to expand...

You need the brackets and the alternator and obviously a new cup belt.
If you arent doing the EPAS you also need the cup PAS pump pipe which is very hard to find in good order, which is why I am saying to do the lot at once.
 
mikeh said:
I was going to speak to PMS and see if their PAS idler can be used with their standard Aircon delete kit (ie. not the whole expensive lightweight pulley kit).

It seems like a nicer solution and no messing around finding new alternators, obscure belts etc.
Click to expand...

Removing the pas pump requires no idler fitted with the cup alternator brackets, just bolt it up and find a belt.

If your not familiar with belts then fit the brackets, adjust the tensioner to minimum, pull a piece of string around all the pulleys you're using, mark it and then remove/straighten the string and measure, add 10mm to that and you have a length.

The PK part of a belt part number is the amount of ridges it has on it so a 3pk180 belt is one with 3 ridges and a circumference of 180mm.

I ran the cup bracket with no pas but I also have the PMS lightweight pulleys on the crank and water pump so you have to reduce the belt from 5pk to 4pk.
 
Hmm. It's not something I've actually sat and thought too much about - thanks for the tips on the belts, though!

Does the PMS alternator bracket work the same as the cup one? I'm assuming the PMS kit works with a aircon model alternator whereas you'd need a cup alternator with the cup setup?
 
leew88 said:
My epas column fits in the ph1 dash like a glove,litterally
Click to expand...
The motor and the heater outlet pipe for the drivers vent occupy the same space on mine. Maybe there are different heaters in early and late ph1 or something if you didn't have that issue?
 
the heater pipes still out at the mo(removed for access) but from.memory it connects up away from the motor-it looks like itll slot straight back in

il try tomorrow
 
Looking from the back the motor is in the way slightly so chip is right

2 options really block it off or loose the wheel height adjust
 
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