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Engine Management Fault



  BMW M135i
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=281285

Leading on from that the problem has developed and tbh i'm now absolutely stumped, have tried everything I can think of.

Basically the problem will present itself when the engine is cold and when just driving around town/normal driving when warm, if you get the car fully warm with a good 5-10min run on the motorway (70mph+/3.5krpm+) or giving it the beans then the problem will go away to a point (still now perfect but much much better). This lead me to thing possibly a lambda sensor fault (should the signal side read open circuit on a multimeter when cold??) but using my ODB interface it shows that the ecu is getting a value from both lambda sensors.

Also while cold the car will missfire at 1800-2000rpm its a judder when driving an a definetly missfire when in neutral holding the revs at that range.

Anyone got an ideas? I getting very pissed of with it tbh, might be time to go to the dark side :eek:.
 

TeZ

  Non RS : (
Well knowing your knowledge, i would say go to the dark side to find the fault then take it away anakin.
 
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=281285

Leading on from that the problem has developed and tbh i'm now absolutely stumped, have tried everything I can think of.

Basically the problem will present itself when the engine is cold and when just driving around town/normal driving when warm, if you get the car fully warm with a good 5-10min run on the motorway (70mph+/3.5krpm+) or giving it the beans then the problem will go away to a point (still now perfect but much much better). This lead me to thing possibly a lambda sensor fault (should the signal side read open circuit on a multimeter when cold??) but using my ODB interface it shows that the ecu is getting a value from both lambda sensors.

Also while cold the car will missfire at 1800-2000rpm its a judder when driving an a definetly missfire when in neutral holding the revs at that range.

Anyone got an ideas? I getting very pissed of with it tbh, might be time to go to the dark side :eek:.

Dark side - Jap?
 
  BMW M135i
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=281285

Leading on from that the problem has developed and tbh i'm now absolutely stumped, have tried everything I can think of.

Basically the problem will present itself when the engine is cold and when just driving around town/normal driving when warm, if you get the car fully warm with a good 5-10min run on the motorway (70mph+/3.5krpm+) or giving it the beans then the problem will go away to a point (still now perfect but much much better). This lead me to thing possibly a lambda sensor fault (should the signal side read open circuit on a multimeter when cold??) but using my ODB interface it shows that the ecu is getting a value from both lambda sensors.

Also while cold the car will missfire at 1800-2000rpm its a judder when driving an a definetly missfire when in neutral holding the revs at that range.

Anyone got an ideas? I getting very pissed of with it tbh, might be time to go to the dark side :eek:.

Dark side - Jap?
Yep probably a Type R. Can't be done with this crap, just seems to be one little fault after another at times. Don't really want to get rid but i've got a bad feeling this may end up being a new ecu which I won't be paying for.

Anywho, back on topic please :rasp:.
 
lol I don't have a clue what it could be matey. Sorry. All I will say is will you help me service my Type R when I get mine :approve: lol
 
It wasnt the TB then.

Sounds strange. Is it OK when you have your foot down and only happens on a light throttle?

It could be a feedback fault from the pedal position?

On my cable with OMEX setup if there is a bad connection to/from the throttle position sensor it defaults to full throttle. This is potentially the fault I have been having where on light throttle, small butterfly opening, the ECU reads a fault and uses full throttle fuel which is obviously going to be VERY rich which makes the car judder and feels like a misfire.

I have a pedal if you want to give it a go.
 
  Clio MkII 172 K reg
Try another pedal sensor. Also inspect very carefully all the wiring to it.
My friend told me a while ago that the pedal sensor has to options (units) in it. may be one of these units has a fault. I'll ask him tomorrow about it and let you know.
My opinion is that the problem is electrical one. French electrics is a s**t as we all know...
 
Form what I can tell (pc bust so cannot view the page properly) I recon its a loom or a sensor problem I'd check the map/tdc sensors get Renault etc to take the car out for a full blast and log the sensor readings i recon that should show up the issue.
 
Reading this, and the other thread, I'll add my experience of the temperature sender wiring issue, whether or not it is related;

I never noticed any idling problems at all, but it was heavily overfueling to the point where it actually broke down in clouds of black smoke. Who knows what it could cause the ECU to do under all kinds of different conditions?

Does this problem seem worse when pushing hard? I ask because mine was never a problem unless I was driving it. It took Renault a few days to sort it out, as they tested the sensor and found it was all ok - it was the wiring to the sensor that was the cause, and it wasn't something they could recreate just by fiddling with a few wires...
 
  BMW M135i
It wasnt the TB then.

Sounds strange. Is it OK when you have your foot down and only happens on a light throttle?

It could be a feedback fault from the pedal position?

On my cable with OMEX setup if there is a bad connection to/from the throttle position sensor it defaults to full throttle. This is potentially the fault I have been having where on light throttle, small butterfly opening, the ECU reads a fault and uses full throttle fuel which is obviously going to be VERY rich which makes the car judder and feels like a misfire.

I have a pedal if you want to give it a go.

I've tried another pedal but it was a normal non rs one so I wouldn't mind borrowing the pedal again if you dont mind. Will pm you. Trouble is i've got no resistance values for the pedal at closed and wide open throttle so the only way to test is substitution.

Its weird though, was fine for 6 weeks then all of a sudden it came back. Was fine in the morning and fucked in the afternoon.

Form what I can tell (pc bust so cannot view the page properly) I recon its a loom or a sensor problem I'd check the map/tdc sensors get Renault etc to take the car out for a full blast and log the sensor readings i recon that should show up the issue.

Any idea on cost of that? I've checked everything I can without the diagnostics, checked all the sensors and wiring with the documentation i've got and i've found nothing. Just seem to be chasing my tail.

Also to add when its idling high if you stop and keep your foot on the brake pedal it'll drop to normal idle straight away. Just as it does if you disconnect the pedal it'll rev to 3k and hold but drop to idle when you put your foot on the brake pedal and hold.

Reading this, and the other thread, I'll add my experience of the temperature sender wiring issue, whether or not it is related;

I never noticed any idling problems at all, but it was heavily overfueling to the point where it actually broke down in clouds of black smoke. Who knows what it could cause the ECU to do under all kinds of different conditions?

Does this problem seem worse when pushing hard? I ask because mine was never a problem unless I was driving it. It took Renault a few days to sort it out, as they tested the sensor and found it was all ok - it was the wiring to the sensor that was the cause, and it wasn't something they could recreate just by fiddling with a few wires...

Nope drives fine barring the revving itself and the judder on light throttle. Still goes as it did before.
 
  BMW M135i
Right, found out a key symptom. It only does it when the car is moving as i've said before but if you park the car on a hill in neutral the idle will sit properly, take the handbrake off and the car will start rolling the idle will start wandering (haven't touched the pedals or put it in gear). As soon as you stop the idle drops straight back to normal instantly, does it going forward and backwards.
 
  BMW M135i
Pull the ABS/ESP fuse and it still does it so I guess its got nothing to do with the speed pulse? Trapped wire?

Can't really think of anything else it'd effect while moving only.
 


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