Not sure if he's on here anymore? Chip mk1
I'm planning on doing the conversion in the next couple of weeks and I want to keep a/c. So I intend to loop the PAS pump back to the reservoir; I know a guy on here has done it before.
I've replaced the PAS pump twice now; but I want to retain A/C and I don't know another way of doing that other than keeping the PAS pump on as an idler.
The improved reliability and the adjustability of EPAS appeals to me.
I've replaced the PAS pump twice now; but I want to retain A/C and I don't know another way of doing that other than keeping the PAS pump on as an idler.
The improved reliability and the adjustability of EPAS appeals to me.
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.
website.
Ok I Will have a go of that then. Mite be a silly question, But is the stretch belt physically different or is it just the method in which it is fitted ?Just bin the tensioner and use a stretch belt. The tensioners are an awful design, I've had one on a customers car that was pretty much ceased solid after about six months.
I'm going to try this.bin the pas pump, bin the tensioner and fit a stretch belt.
I can see where you're coming from. The pure Motorsport idler ad states that it won't work with A/C, possibly because it requires a 4 rib belt. Anyway I'm going to try the stretched belt method now;The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.
With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con , placing an idler where the pump would have been is the only other option to the stretch belt option .
Search for it on the pure Motorsport website.
Ok I Will have a go of that then. Mite be a silly question, But is the stretch belt physically different or is it just the method in which it is fitted ?
And assume it's just a case of taking a measurement for the length of belt I require ensuring it's a good fit ?
Thanks for everyone's advice.
I'm going to try this.
I can see where you're coming from. The pure Motorsport idler ad states that it won't work with A/C, possibly because it requires a 4 rib belt. Anyway I'm going to try the stretched belt method now;
For track only 182: does anyone run with no PAS of any kind? Experiences?
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Personally I think its horrendous, Ive driven mine with and without assistance and I think you would struggle to quickly add opposite lock etc. due to how heavy the steering is, I know some people love it.
Right guys, I have a problem with my EPAS. Car has been stood for 3 months, today I went back into it and the assistance doesnt seem to match the setting on the dial, it seems to be either off all the time or max assistance, at random! It has then been assisted between 11 and 2 on the wheel but no assistance outside of this.
Any ideas?
First test the resistance of the rotary switch and see if the measurements are smooth and increase / decrease the readings . If ok , then it's more than likely a motor issue . Measure the voltage at the motor or ecu output during motion from lock to lock at different switch points . Your looking for a voltage reduction again in relation to the amount the knob is turned .
If the volts equals the knob turns and the motor doesn't react then it's more than likely the motor .
I cannot quote voltages as I've never measured them yet .
That's what I'd be doing [emoji1303]
Been running no PAS on track for quite ...
I run EPAS...
How have you removed the ABS? Have you gone to the 172 Cup setup or just pulled the fuse?First time out with the ‘armstrong’ steering was a bit like....”oh dear what have I done” but I got used to it really quickly. I like the cleaner engine bay and less weight etc. well worth bining the ABS too while you’re at it.
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How have you removed the ABS? Have you gone to the 172 Cup setup or just pulled the fuse?
What did you have to do to bin the abs? I'm in a 182 and would like to scrap it, I understand the 172 cup came with it removed from the factory. Do you just swap the lines, master cylinder, and booster / servo over and that's it?
What did you have to do to bin the abs? I'm in a 182 and would like to scrap it, I understand the 172 cup came with it removed from the factory. Do you just swap the lines, master cylinder, and booster / servo over and that's it?
Yes, and disable the rear beam compensation valve.
I've finally got round to doing my epas and quick rack conversion but ive got an issue that i'm after some opinions on.
The powersteering when dry steering doesn't (always) work and the motor seems to flick on and off when cornering hard (for example driving round a mini round about or 'carving' into the corner on a roundabout
The motor power supply is effectively wired directly to the alternator and the alternator is making what i consider to be a healthy 14.7v at idle.
I am running a lithium ion battery which im not 100% is up to the job, however its turning the car over far better than my original big bosch so that makes me think its not that. My bosch battery doesnt seem turn the car over any more so trying that isnt really an option
Where do i start? I need to try the multimeter onto the battery and see if theres a big drop in voltage while steering but apart from that i dont have a massive amount of ideas!
Any help is appreciated!
Sounds like the same issue as mine.
A few people said it’s the motor on the column but my was the epas ecu. Changed that for a different one and so far so good