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EPAS Conversion



bloke

ClioSport Club Member
  dan's cast offs.
I'm planning on doing the conversion in the next couple of weeks and I want to keep a/c. So I intend to loop the PAS pump back to the reservoir; I know a guy on here has done it before.
why bother doing it if you are keeping the pump?
 
  FF LY 182
I've replaced the PAS pump twice now; but I want to retain A/C and I don't know another way of doing that other than keeping the PAS pump on as an idler.
The improved reliability and the adjustability of EPAS appeals to me.
 
  182 trackcar, XC60t6
Hi sorry to hijack your thread. I have a ph2 182 which is going to be track only. No AC. What's the feeling with running no PAS at all?? Hard work at low speed the only issue?


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Ads29

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 Merc ML55
I've replaced the PAS pump twice now; but I want to retain A/C and I don't know another way of doing that other than keeping the PAS pump on as an idler.
The improved reliability and the adjustability of EPAS appeals to me.
I have no idea whether any parts would be compatible but I know some of the dci's had a/c and they were fitted with EPAS from factory, my wife's old dci was one example, unfortunately I've already scrapped it but it's a thought, whilst it's very very unlikely anything would just bolt on there's always a chance that brackets could be modified to fit.
 

bloke

ClioSport Club Member
  dan's cast offs.
I've replaced the PAS pump twice now; but I want to retain A/C and I don't know another way of doing that other than keeping the PAS pump on as an idler.
The improved reliability and the adjustability of EPAS appeals to me.

bin the pas pump, bin the tensioner and fit a stretch belt.
 
  172 Ph1
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.

With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con , placing an idler where the pump would have been is the only other option to the stretch belt option .
Search for it on the pure Motorsport website.
 

Ads29

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 Merc ML55
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.

website.
This was my aim too, and I much prefer the feeling of EPAS, my engine revs up a lot easier too now it's not running all the aux systems but I can understand where the guys coming from in wanting to keep a/c if possible.
 
  Ph1 172 turbo
Been trying to work out a solution to get rid of pas pump for my trackway next week. Mite not be ideal. But do u think the following would work either utilising the tensioner or removing the tensioner and possibly a stretch belt that has been mentioned ? Not sure the tensioner would do enough thou.
IMG_1989.JPG

Mine does not have AC just a Saab idler in its place.
Only after a quick fix then sort out PMS stuff following my trackday.
 

bloke

ClioSport Club Member
  dan's cast offs.
Just bin the tensioner and use a stretch belt. The tensioners are an awful design, I've had one on a customers car that was pretty much ceased solid after about six months.
 
  Ph1 172 turbo
Just bin the tensioner and use a stretch belt. The tensioners are an awful design, I've had one on a customers car that was pretty much ceased solid after about six months.
Ok I Will have a go of that then. Mite be a silly question, But is the stretch belt physically different or is it just the method in which it is fitted ?

And assume it's just a case of taking a measurement for the length of belt I require ensuring it's a good fit ?

Thanks for everyone's advice.
 
  FF LY 182
bin the pas pump, bin the tensioner and fit a stretch belt.
I'm going to try this.
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.

With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con , placing an idler where the pump would have been is the only other option to the stretch belt option .
Search for it on the pure Motorsport website.
I can see where you're coming from. The pure Motorsport idler ad states that it won't work with A/C, possibly because it requires a 4 rib belt. Anyway I'm going to try the stretched belt method now;
 

bloke

ClioSport Club Member
  dan's cast offs.
Ok I Will have a go of that then. Mite be a silly question, But is the stretch belt physically different or is it just the method in which it is fitted ?

And assume it's just a case of taking a measurement for the length of belt I require ensuring it's a good fit ?

Thanks for everyone's advice.
it's just a belt that stretches to fit. you can get special tool to fit them with but most of the time you can get them on with a screwdriver to guide it over one of the pulleys.

I'm going to try this.

I can see where you're coming from. The pure Motorsport idler ad states that it won't work with A/C, possibly because it requires a 4 rib belt. Anyway I'm going to try the stretched belt method now;
you can run theirs with ac but you have to flip the pulley round and fit it the other way and then split a 6pk belt down to a 4 rib and bob's your uncle.
 
  182 trackcar, XC60t6
For track only 182: does anyone run with no PAS of any kind? Experiences?


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  MR2 Mk3 / Giulietta
For track only 182: does anyone run with no PAS of any kind? Experiences?


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Personally I think its horrendous, Ive driven mine with and without assistance and I think you would struggle to quickly add opposite lock etc. due to how heavy the steering is, I know some people love it.

Right guys, I have a problem with my EPAS. Car has been stood for 3 months, today I went back into it and the assistance doesnt seem to match the setting on the dial, it seems to be either off all the time or max assistance, at random! It has then been assisted between 11 and 2 on the wheel but no assistance outside of this.

Any ideas?
 
  172 Ph1
Personally I think its horrendous, Ive driven mine with and without assistance and I think you would struggle to quickly add opposite lock etc. due to how heavy the steering is, I know some people love it.

Right guys, I have a problem with my EPAS. Car has been stood for 3 months, today I went back into it and the assistance doesnt seem to match the setting on the dial, it seems to be either off all the time or max assistance, at random! It has then been assisted between 11 and 2 on the wheel but no assistance outside of this.

Any ideas?
First test the resistance of the rotary switch and see if the measurements are smooth and increase / decrease the readings . If ok , then it's more than likely a motor issue . Measure the voltage at the motor or ecu output during motion from lock to lock at different switch points . Your looking for a voltage reduction again in relation to the amount the knob is turned .
If the volts equals the knob turns and the motor doesn't react then it's more than likely the motor .
I cannot quote voltages as I've never measured them yet .

That's what I'd be doing
 
  MR2 Mk3 / Giulietta
First test the resistance of the rotary switch and see if the measurements are smooth and increase / decrease the readings . If ok , then it's more than likely a motor issue . Measure the voltage at the motor or ecu output during motion from lock to lock at different switch points . Your looking for a voltage reduction again in relation to the amount the knob is turned .
If the volts equals the knob turns and the motor doesn't react then it's more than likely the motor .
I cannot quote voltages as I've never measured them yet .

That's what I'd be doing
Thanks for the reply. I will check that at the weekend. Is there a possibility that its the control box? Or is it more likely to be a motor issue?

@GrahamS suggested to me the alternator not charging the battery may be a possible cause as well. I have noticed a definate whine from the aux belt area, as well as some battery drain issues. Wonder if its related! It is a brand new battery in at the moment however.
 
  MR2 Mk3 / Giulietta
Im going to play with the multimeter this weekend then! At least its likely to be a cheap (sub 50 quid!) fix, Il check the switch first. Thanks guys.
 

RobBrodie

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
Sorry to bring up an old thread!

What are people doing with the sensor/plug from the hpas, the one which plugs into the pipe just infront of the alternator? I guess leaving this unpluged throws a management light? Resistor?
 
  182 trackcar, XC60t6
Been running no PAS on track for quite a few races now. It’s all good. Just left my plugs zip tied up in the breeze I think.


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  182 trackcar, XC60t6
First time out with the ‘armstrong’ steering was a bit like....”oh dear what have I done” but I got used to it really quickly. I like the cleaner engine bay and less weight etc. well worth bining the ABS too while you’re at it.


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Hollidog

ClioSport Club Member
  182
First time out with the ‘armstrong’ steering was a bit like....”oh dear what have I done” but I got used to it really quickly. I like the cleaner engine bay and less weight etc. well worth bining the ABS too while you’re at it.


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How have you removed the ABS? Have you gone to the 172 Cup setup or just pulled the fuse?
 

a17vts

ClioSport Club Member
  2005 RB 182 Cup
How have you removed the ABS? Have you gone to the 172 Cup setup or just pulled the fuse?
What do you mean?

I'm running EPAS and from memory this doesn't throw up any lights on the dash.

However my ABS light is currently on but for other reasons!
 

Hollidog

ClioSport Club Member
  182
What did you have to do to bin the abs? I'm in a 182 and would like to scrap it, I understand the 172 cup came with it removed from the factory. Do you just swap the lines, master cylinder, and booster / servo over and that's it?
 
  172 Ph1
What did you have to do to bin the abs? I'm in a 182 and would like to scrap it, I understand the 172 cup came with it removed from the factory. Do you just swap the lines, master cylinder, and booster / servo over and that's it?
Pretty much that yes , and the compensator , but I’d guess you’d incorporate a bias valve instead .
 

alexandre.

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio K4T
What did you have to do to bin the abs? I'm in a 182 and would like to scrap it, I understand the 172 cup came with it removed from the factory. Do you just swap the lines, master cylinder, and booster / servo over and that's it?
Yes, and disable the rear beam compensation valve.
 

RobBrodie

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
I've finally got round to doing my epas and quick rack conversion but ive got an issue that i'm after some opinions on.

The powersteering when dry steering doesn't (always) work and the motor seems to flick on and off when cornering hard (for example driving round a mini round about or 'carving' into the corner on a roundabout

The motor power supply is effectively wired directly to the alternator and the alternator is making what i consider to be a healthy 14.7v at idle.

I am running a lithium ion battery which im not 100% is up to the job, however its turning the car over far better than my original big bosch so that makes me think its not that. My bosch battery doesnt seem turn the car over any more so trying that isnt really an option

Where do i start? I need to try the multimeter onto the battery and see if theres a big drop in voltage while steering but apart from that i dont have a massive amount of ideas!

Any help is appreciated!
 

Nathan Evans

ClioSport Club Member
  Audi rs3/Clio 172cup
I've finally got round to doing my epas and quick rack conversion but ive got an issue that i'm after some opinions on.

The powersteering when dry steering doesn't (always) work and the motor seems to flick on and off when cornering hard (for example driving round a mini round about or 'carving' into the corner on a roundabout

The motor power supply is effectively wired directly to the alternator and the alternator is making what i consider to be a healthy 14.7v at idle.

I am running a lithium ion battery which im not 100% is up to the job, however its turning the car over far better than my original big bosch so that makes me think its not that. My bosch battery doesnt seem turn the car over any more so trying that isnt really an option

Where do i start? I need to try the multimeter onto the battery and see if theres a big drop in voltage while steering but apart from that i dont have a massive amount of ideas!

Any help is appreciated!

Sounds like the same issue as mine.
A few people said it’s the motor on the column but my was the epas ecu. Changed that for a different one and so far so good
 

RobBrodie

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
Sounds like the same issue as mine.
A few people said it’s the motor on the column but my was the epas ecu. Changed that for a different one and so far so good
Thanks for the reply buddy! I feel like it is a component failure rather than wiring error just really dont know where to start! Its fine on normal roads with long bends etc.

Ill see if i can pick up a new ecu!
 

RobBrodie

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
Unfortunately the ecu hasnt made any difference ?

Ive had the multimeter on the battery when dry steering and its not sapping much voltage. 0.3v at most. Not really sure where to go next, i think battery but if its not sapping the power then surely thats not the problem

Again any help would be appricated! ?
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172, RS4 B7, A1
Anyone know if 1.5dci module is the same as 1.2?
Also, anyone tried using mk3 column?
Figured newer motor could be more precise and more powerful. Wonder if that eBay plug kit will work on MK3? Not bothered about fitment. As long as motor works as it should, anything can be made for. Cheers. Just trying to diagnose a few concerns I have. + converting to shorter rack so trying to optimise the set up. Cheers
 


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