EPAS plugs already in loom??

[Usr117063]

@1985michael182 Thanks Mike, Ive posted here because cant do pictures from phone (old as god)

Is this wrong? I dont know what the 12v for the controller is supposed to join to

 

[1985michael182]

The 12v for the controller literally just wants to be on your ignition live. So when you turn your ignition on it sends power to the columns ECU which in turn, switches the power on for the motor in the column.
But like I said, if your wheels are not on the floor you wont really know if it works as it needs resistance from your tyres.

 

[Usr117063]

Wheels on the ground, 12v wired up to a different thicker wire (cig lighter wire) And nothing. Ive checked the power going to the epas ecu and I think its fine, I put the prongs in and out and it shoots up to 12v ish then back down. The epas ecu doesnt make any noise when you turn the ignition on though should it?

 

[1985michael182]

So you need to check your big live and earth and that you haven't blown your inline fuse

 

[1985michael182]

Have you wired the Ebay controller as per the instructions

 

[Usr117063]

Im not sure what to check? The fuse isnt blown, the earth is built into the loom and bolted down. The multimeter picks up that theres power at the plug. White wire is earthed, black wire powered from cig lighter, other 4 wires are in and plugged into the column. Ill double check but dont know how I messed something up.

 

[1985michael182]

Do you know how to check continuity down a wire to make sure there isnt a break in a wire or that a component actually works?

 

[Usr117063]

Have no idea mate I give up

 

[1985michael182]

If you have all the wires in the right place you need to check each wire now to make sure it's not split or damaged.

 

[1985michael182]

 

[Usr117063]

Im not sure if these are (bad) results Im looking for?

Just turned the ignition on and the ecu does infact make a big clunk. These are the wires that are having problem, 2 okay the other 2 (orange and green) nothing

 

[1985michael182]

Right you need to check from 1 plug to the other on the same wire

 

[1985michael182]

Also crimped connections aren't the best, soldering is far superior m8, then shrink wrap them after. If I crimp any thing I solder it also to make sure I have the best possible connection. Electricity is like magic lol

 

[1985michael182]

So pull the plug from the ECU with the four colour wires and check the continuity of each wire. Like in that video, if it beeps or says OL (open circuit) then theres a problem down the line. They are only tiny wires so it wont read much but it should read something!

 

[Usr117063]

Just confirmed that the 2 wires (orange and green) from the plug are dodgy as the prongs in the actual ecu are giving readings. Will report back shortly

 

[Usr117063]

Thanks for your help mate

 

[1985michael182]

We haven't fixed it yet

 

[1985michael182]

That continuity you van check any electrical component to see if it's broken, bulbs, relays, wires anything.

 

[Usr117063]

Although we did fix it temporarlily I started it up and it worked, shut down and started back again and the ecu cut off and the steering wheel light on the dash came on and went out. Broke again, I checked the power cable fuse thats okay and the small 15amp fuse in the fusebox and both fine. Something relay uch Ive read before??

 

[1985michael182]

You dont need to start the engine m8 just turn ignition on and it will work. Check that the adjuster is all the way to the right

 

[1985michael182]

Can you smell any burnt wires or anything? Smell in the fuse box

 

[1985michael182]

This is also what I mean about crimped connections. If only a few strands are actually in contact with the crimp then it could burn them out

 

[Usr117063]

It works now pal. What I did was put the oem connector in the ecu with the neccessary wire swapped out for the black box, so the steering wheel light came on the dash, but it didnt like it and shut off so I removed them all to not confuse the system and it sorted it.

And thanks I just realised it comes on without needing engine on. The adjuster seems kinda slow to change but it seems to work.

Big thanks for all your help as wouldnt of been able to do it without you. Also @GrahamS helped me out lots too

Its too late now to go out for a test as getting in/out the garage is a skits mission so will drive out tomorrow. Will now clean up the wiring and tuck it back.

 

[Usr117063]

 

[1985michael182]

Not a problem m8

 

[Usr117063]

@1985michael182 Went on its first test today, was rush hour, dark and raining so the best time to do it. All went well though, it steers smooth and drives straight which is the most important thing. I played around with the adjuster but Ive set it too max assistance for all speeds as theres this firmnmess in the first 20 deg of turning the wheel then it lightens up the more you turn, I can see why people complained about the self centering but for me its only the first part of turning and not while in a more sharper turn. Is it like this for you? Its not too bad and I have an aggresive alignment up front so will dial back the toe out a bit, Ive wanted to do this anyway..

 

[1985michael182]

It's a race car m8. You'll get used to it. 10 minutes toe out is what you want, 5 minutes each side. On track with slicks is spot on I much prefer it especially knowing you're not going to boil the fluid or have it spray every where and set on fire or all over a tyre and you spon off!
Easy to work on aswell.
Check the castor and make sure is as equal as poss