FAO Ice Boffins

[MK3]

Rite, hoping to get everything sorted by this Saturday. I have gertz comps to put in, mounting them to mdf baffles (mounted to the actual door).

Only thing left to do up front is sound deadening. Only I could find something so simple, so complicated lol. There are gaps in the door (outer skin and inner skin), is the aim to cover the whole door in deadening so there are no more gaps? (except for cables to come through ect) Or just deaden over the metal as it is, then do the same inside the gaps? If deadening over the whole door is the case, do i fill the gaps with anything? Or just stick the deadening over it?

2nd question.. The day i bought my car i wanted bass, so went out and spend too much money on a not very great sub & amp package:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_504839_langId_-1_categoryId_165702

Aparently the amp supplied with it is 'perfectly matched' however it is only 200 watts rms bridged and the sub is 400 watts rms? So im guessin if i get a more powerfull amp the sub will perform better? If this is the case, i'll be using the amp that it came with the power the comps in the front, and getting a new amp for the sub.

Found this - http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/4250.html Would this suit the sub? Aparently it would be fine, but it seems a big jump from 200 watts to 420 watts.

However if i was wrong before and the amp i got with the sub is the one i should be using, then could anyone reccomend an amp for my componants., they are Hertz DSK 130. Sorry for the essay lol! and thanks in advance, Marcus

 

[Dink]

when i fitted the sound deadning to my clio i put it mainly on the outer skin of the door

seemed to work well tbh

also the sub according to the vibe website requires a minimum of 200wRMS and a max of 400wRMS so that jbl amp would be ideal

 

[MK3]

Cheers mate. When you say outer, do u mean the side of the door thats outside the car? Or the outer skin asin the one closest to you if you were sat in the car? I cant put what i mean into words without it not making sence lol.. Did you cover the whole of the door in it? Like making a new skin, covering all of the door exept small gaps for wires to come through? Cheers

 

[Dink]

well the inside of the outside skin of the door if you know what i mean

you need to cover and metal parts of the door really not the whole door as such

 

[wallop]

Hi Mr Dink, You OK ?? Hope you had a good Christmas & a memorable New Year Party....

@ OP...

With regards 'Sound Deadening' the front doors;

The gaps or holes in the doors inner skin are there to allow access to the inner door components such as window regulators, glass guides etc etc....

You should use these access points to deaden the inner face of the outer skin, cut small easy to handle strips & apply to area directly behind the speaker & work outwards, the more area you cover, the better the overall result will be.... Once your satisfied the inner face of the outer skin is deadened enough, deaden the entire inner face of the inner skin, (the panel containing the access holes).... The access holes should be covered so that when your finished it looks like a complete solid panel, the object is to effectively seal the door cavity to improve mid bass response.... You should take care not to foul any electric motors or operating rods.... Any speaker baffles should be mounted using some form of sealing caulk along with screws to ensure an air tight seal, the actual speaker should also be fitted using some form of gasket to again ensure an air tight fit.....

With regards matching amps to subs;

All things being equal, an amplifier that is correctly set up will never achieve its rated output power whilst playing music, so, if you want the best from your set up you should consider what you intend to play.... In my car I always opt for power, so a 400w rms sub would be matched to a 1000w rms amplifier, this means I would have a healthy amount of 'Headroom', or untapped amplifier power....

Wow, another essay...lol...:sleepy:

 

[Dink]

i don't think i'd recommend covering the access holes in sound deadning imho

it'll cause a right mess if the window regulator f***s up (mine did)

 

[MK3]

Thanks alot for the replies lads, now i kind of know what i'm doing lol.

Last question i promise..

Do the different brand materials really make that much of a difference? Or is it all prettymuch the same? I dont mind spending a bit extra if im really going to notice the difference, but its not a massive install, so do you think i could get away with using the cheaper stuff? Could you reccomend any that do the job properly but are good value for money? Cheers

 

[wallop]

i don't think i'd recommend covering the access holes in sound deadning imho

it'll cause a right mess if the window regulator f**ks up (mine did)

For best results you need to effectively seal the door cavity....

Thanks alot for the replies lads, now i kind of know what i'm doing lol.

Last question i promise..

Do the different brand materials really make that much of a difference? Or is it all prettymuch the same? I dont mind spending a bit extra if im really going to notice the difference, but its not a massive install, so do you think i could get away with using the cheaper stuff? Could you reccomend any that do the job properly but are good value for money? Cheers

There has been quite a few debates on whether any particular brand is better than most, in my opinion 'Dynamat Extreme' is excellent stuff....

BUT, when doing budget jobs where value for money is most important I always use 'Wickses High Tack Flashing Tape' which gives decent results at a fraction of the cost...

This Stuff

 

[Dink]

but you wouldn't seal the cavity using sound deadning material surely?

you'd need something a bit more solid

 

[wallop]

Depends on the size & shape of the hole being covered... In most cases simply covering the hole is fine, in some cases wire mesh can be used to add a little rigidity....

Where control rods pass through I use a piece of sponge, simply slice & slip over the rod where it passes through the deadening, the deadening sticks to the sponge, but the rod will still move....

Deadening of the door skins will greatly reduce resonating rattles, blocking the access holes to effectively seal the door cavity will greatly improve mid bass reproduction, two separate positive outcomes....

A door deadened using your method won't rattle, a door deadened using the correct method won't rattle, it will also play louder & sound better doing it...

 

[MK3]

Dink: I see what you're saying about it not being practical to cover access holes, but if it's going to improve the sound i think ill go for it and hope nothing breaks lol.

Wollop, thanks alot mate you've just saved me quite a few pennies! Rite.. When i said it was my last question, i lied :rasp:

With that alumimiun flashing, do you need to use the primer? I havnt got a clue what it's used for normally so i wouldnt know.

Secondly, does it still need to be heated up to achieve flexability? If so, would a hair dryer be up to the job? Or am i going to have to invest in a heat gun?

Cheers mate you've been a great help

 

[Dink]

just remember it's a renault at the end of the day

i'd say you may need a heat gun for flashing as it is used to go on roofs of houses

plus you will need some way of supporting the flashing if it's not a wide as the hole as if it flexes it'll probably make the sound worse

 

[MK3]

FFS just as i was thinking it was going to be simple lol, what would you suggest using to support the flashing? Wire mesh or something similar?

 

[wallop]

Round & round we go....

A little common sense should be used to discern whether support is required or not.... In all cases any moving parts should be shielded from exposed adhesive backing, (obviously).... I usually use heavy polythene sheeting.... Using full length horizontal strips with a 15mm overlap will usually give more than enough rigidity to prevent undue flex....

A pic of a deadened Vectra door for ref;

 

[Dink]

what's over the top of the flashing in your pic?

 

[wallop]

That Vectra door, (not mine, pic simply used for ref), was covered using 'Second Skin' Damplifier Pro Matting then covered with 'Second Skin' Sludge....

It is all relative, some folks will spend £100+ deadening a door, some won't spend £100 deadening a full car....

The OP simply requires a cheap solution to deadening his doors, 'Flashing Tape' offers the best solution financially.... Common sense when covering access holes is free.... Rigidity isn't the main concern, protecting moving parts from the 'Flashing Tape' adhesive is....