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FAO Mk1 F4R'd owners...Fault thread inside.
- Thread starter Bluebeard
- Start date
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Its going for a proper one. I told him I want it to be Proper council strict! lol.
(apart from the emissions obviously..)
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Me again chaps!!
Right, I seem to be eating driveshafts for fun atm. I fitted another secondhand one today and it lasted less than three miles before it started clunking its tits off again. I'm now on my 3rd n/s driveshaft.
Whats causing this?? Is it possible that it could be too far into the gearbox??
Cheers.
Right, I seem to be eating driveshafts for fun atm. I fitted another secondhand one today and it lasted less than three miles before it started clunking its tits off again. I'm now on my 3rd n/s driveshaft.
Whats causing this?? Is it possible that it could be too far into the gearbox??
Cheers.
The first one was always fucked due to the the thread for the hub nut being flatten'd on the end, so it was a pain in the arse to get the nut on.. So I got another, ran that for a while, had to remove the engine, took shaft out and dropped it on the end, thread fucked on that one, so used my last spare and thats whats still on it now..
ITB'd MK1
what arms and hubs are you running?
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
The drivers side has a 172 Bottom Arm and a 172 Hub.
The passenger side has a Williams Arm and a 172 Hub.
(I bent the 172 bottom arm trying to undo the 30mm nut on the donor car. Used a 7 foot scaffold bar..... )
The arms looked identical though so thats why I used the williams arm I had lying around.
The passenger side has a Williams Arm and a 172 Hub.
(I bent the 172 bottom arm trying to undo the 30mm nut on the donor car. Used a 7 foot scaffold bar..... )
The arms looked identical though so thats why I used the williams arm I had lying around.
ITB'd MK1
yep, there's your issue. you need an arm that matches the shaft you're using
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Right, seems to be my downfall then! lol.
We checked/measured/double checked/double measured EVERYTHING before we fitted it.
So are we saying that i've spent £XXX on driveshafts when its the arm causing it to sit too far in and in actual fact theres nothing wrong with the driveshafts???
We checked/measured/double checked/double measured EVERYTHING before we fitted it.
So are we saying that i've spent £XXX on driveshafts when its the arm causing it to sit too far in and in actual fact theres nothing wrong with the driveshafts???
ITB'd MK1
more than likely
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
Last weekend i drove to the petrol station to do tyre pressures and get fuel. After putting air in the tyres I tried to start the car but the starter motor just clicked.
I thought at first the solenoid had just gotten a bit sticky so gave it a tap but that didn't help.
I got a push start off someone and drove round to the pumps to fill up. After filling up the exact same thing happened. I tried rocking the car forwards and backwards in gear but that didn't help either.
I decided it would be best to get another push start and drive home so i could investigate the problem on the driveway. After not a lot of investigating I decided to put a 2nd hand starter in it as i though that would be the end of it, but it still just clicks on turning the key.
Watch the video below. (this is the 2nd hand starter, but the one i took off did exactly the same)
The starter has been verified as working before being sent from mat brown and the battery was new a month ago.
Any ideas as to what's going wrong before I start investigating tommorow?
I thought at first the solenoid had just gotten a bit sticky so gave it a tap but that didn't help.
I got a push start off someone and drove round to the pumps to fill up. After filling up the exact same thing happened. I tried rocking the car forwards and backwards in gear but that didn't help either.
I decided it would be best to get another push start and drive home so i could investigate the problem on the driveway. After not a lot of investigating I decided to put a 2nd hand starter in it as i though that would be the end of it, but it still just clicks on turning the key.
Watch the video below. (this is the 2nd hand starter, but the one i took off did exactly the same)
The starter has been verified as working before being sent from mat brown and the battery was new a month ago.
Any ideas as to what's going wrong before I start investigating tommorow?
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
This is sorted now 
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
It was the 120 amp fuse that connects straight to the battery. I forgot about checking there and it was only after I'd taken off the earth straps to clean them up that I decided to check the battery terminals too. I know for next time now!
Runs sweet now.
Runs sweet now.
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
I'm going to put a project thread up soon to save writing everything here, but I've been extremely busy with the car getting everything just how I want it. Rev counter and oil gauges are pretty much next on the list of jobs, so not working yet!
Bluebeard
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Interesting. I've just bought a new battery and a new (secondhand) starter motor as mine has been having the same issues. I'll fit all the new bits anyway but I'll also be checking this too!
Cheers.
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
Check that first! It may save you the hassle of having everything apart to find out that that's what was wrong.
You need to add a 10k 'pullup' resistor to the tacho/rev counter wire. Basically get a 10k ohm resistor, strip a part of the tacho/rev counter wire back, solder one end of the resistor onto it, then solder a 12v+ ignition live onto the other end of it. Your rev counter will now work fine.
F4R Mk1 Hybrid
I've got another problem with mine
I decided to totally take apart the wiring loom to take away all unessecary wiring (as even the air con wiring was still left on!) The insulation on the alternator to starter to +ve was also damaged and that must have been what caused my 120 amp fuse to blow recently.
Anyway, since taking my time and doing a thorough job on the wiring, the car wont start!
The fuel pump does not prime. I get 12V to 2 of the smaller wires when the ignition is on but no power to the 2 main power wires that turn to 12V for a few secs when priming.
The fuel pump does work for sure as I've tested it by connecting it directly to the battery though.
I played about with swapping the relays about with no sucess before resorting to this to temporarily bypass them.
This only served to make the rad fan come on, but didn't make the fuel pump come alive or get any life out of the car when cranking.
The coil does not get any power on ignition, and I didn't have anyone to help so couldn't check when cranking.
The engine does turn over fine though and the battery has a good charge.
What are the other possible factors that would stop the car from starting?
I have double and triple checked to see if there were any wires that i'd forgotten to connect back up, but can't see any.
Could it be ECU related? I had an emulator fault at the start of the year but the fuel pump would still prime then.
Any help/ideas is much appreciated.
Tim
I decided to totally take apart the wiring loom to take away all unessecary wiring (as even the air con wiring was still left on!) The insulation on the alternator to starter to +ve was also damaged and that must have been what caused my 120 amp fuse to blow recently.
Anyway, since taking my time and doing a thorough job on the wiring, the car wont start!
The fuel pump does not prime. I get 12V to 2 of the smaller wires when the ignition is on but no power to the 2 main power wires that turn to 12V for a few secs when priming.
The fuel pump does work for sure as I've tested it by connecting it directly to the battery though.
I played about with swapping the relays about with no sucess before resorting to this to temporarily bypass them.
This only served to make the rad fan come on, but didn't make the fuel pump come alive or get any life out of the car when cranking.
The coil does not get any power on ignition, and I didn't have anyone to help so couldn't check when cranking.
The engine does turn over fine though and the battery has a good charge.
What are the other possible factors that would stop the car from starting?
I have double and triple checked to see if there were any wires that i'd forgotten to connect back up, but can't see any.
Could it be ECU related? I had an emulator fault at the start of the year but the fuel pump would still prime then.
Any help/ideas is much appreciated.
Tim
Clio 1.4 RT V-reg
Hi there,
I have a clio v-reg 2000 1.4
This morning i went to start my car and it started to tick over but then stopped. My first thinking was that it was the battery that was flat. I then got some jump leads and jumped it but it still wouldn't start - just ticking over. I then charged up the battery to 100% and tried the next day. However this time there was nothing, just ticking noises from the battery like it was sparking noises just no sparks.
I then called the recovery guy and he said it was the starter motor that was gone. he then tried to roll the car and start it and it didn't even jump or anything. It is now sat on my drive and i want to see what it is. Is it the starter motor? or could it be the immobilizer?
Please if you have an idea what it could be tell me, because don't want to waste money fixing things that doesn't need to be fixed.
I have a clio v-reg 2000 1.4
This morning i went to start my car and it started to tick over but then stopped. My first thinking was that it was the battery that was flat. I then got some jump leads and jumped it but it still wouldn't start - just ticking over. I then charged up the battery to 100% and tried the next day. However this time there was nothing, just ticking noises from the battery like it was sparking noises just no sparks.
I then called the recovery guy and he said it was the starter motor that was gone. he then tried to roll the car and start it and it didn't even jump or anything. It is now sat on my drive and i want to see what it is. Is it the starter motor? or could it be the immobilizer?
Please if you have an idea what it could be tell me, because don't want to waste money fixing things that doesn't need to be fixed.
Ok here we go... simple really and probably me being stupid as usual!
Exhaust is on its last days, new middle section fitted in recent years so thats all good, backbox all good (still original but going strong) but the problem is the little pipe in the middle that connects them, kinda like a right angled pipe that helps angle it over the axel. Its starting to rot away and as a result blowy exhaust, sounded quite throaty and racy to start with but now is awful and annoying haha. Just wondering could I get a pipe from anywhere that would be this shape or does it seem I will have to buy the whole backbox section as when I have been into all the parts shops they have said its only the whole backbox...
Any ideas anyone? Or alternatives to buying new exhaust? Thinking of an aftermarket one eventually!
Exhaust is on its last days, new middle section fitted in recent years so thats all good, backbox all good (still original but going strong) but the problem is the little pipe in the middle that connects them, kinda like a right angled pipe that helps angle it over the axel. Its starting to rot away and as a result blowy exhaust, sounded quite throaty and racy to start with but now is awful and annoying haha. Just wondering could I get a pipe from anywhere that would be this shape or does it seem I will have to buy the whole backbox section as when I have been into all the parts shops they have said its only the whole backbox...
Any ideas anyone? Or alternatives to buying new exhaust? Thinking of an aftermarket one eventually!
Clio 172 Sport
yep, ecu temp sender unit first call!!!
I'm having a problem with my Mk1 F4R.
When the engine is cold, it will start up but run like an absolute dog for a good 5-10 mins or so. Whilst it's running like this you can't drive it, if you try and pull away the engine literally has no power and the revs drop right down, even when you press on the accelerator.
Once the engine has fully warmed up, it idles and drive absolutely fine.
I have checked the plugs and leads and they are all fine. I've also replaced the Coolant temp sensor. I'm now wondering if its anything to do with the fuel pump as its currently running a Walbro one. Also noticed that the CAT glows red hot when the engine is running bad
Help please!
When the engine is cold, it will start up but run like an absolute dog for a good 5-10 mins or so. Whilst it's running like this you can't drive it, if you try and pull away the engine literally has no power and the revs drop right down, even when you press on the accelerator.
Once the engine has fully warmed up, it idles and drive absolutely fine.
I have checked the plugs and leads and they are all fine. I've also replaced the Coolant temp sensor. I'm now wondering if its anything to do with the fuel pump as its currently running a Walbro one. Also noticed that the CAT glows red hot when the engine is running bad
Help please!
