Here you go mate....photos missing unfortunately and don't have access to them for a while as away from laptop.
Guys,
I finally got around to doing this.
Symptoms
Climate control computer is ON and temperature and blower control appears to work, but no air is blown from the vents.
The Fix
The blowers use a resistor pack to regulate the speed of the air blown through the vents. A MOSFET transistor is used in order to do this and it is this component which fails.
A new resistor pack is around £120.00 from Renault, this fix will cost you about £5 and a bit of time.
The Tools For The Job
- Large flat head screwdriver
- Thin bladed knife (maybe)
- M6 hex driver (straight and ratchet with UJ)
- Soldering iron
- Solder Sucker or Gauze
- Solder
- New MOSFET HUF75337P3 (Maplin part number UE47B,
LINK)
Guide
1. Pop the bonnet. You will see under the windscreen some scuttle panels, the resistor pack is under the O/S (driver's side if RHD) scuttle panel. First thing to do is pull off the rubber seal as shown above. You only need to pull off until about the mid point of the car....
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2. The scuttle panel is held on at 2 points and by 2 different methods. First to tackle is the circled screw rivet.
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3. Use a fat flat head screwdriver, coin or in my case another key to turn the central part of the rivet anti-clockwise about a quarter turn. The central part of the rivet should raise up slightly as a result, now pull the central part up. This releases pressure on the outer part and hence the entire rivet can be pulled out (a bit of force may be required).
If the whole rivet spins when turning the inner part, use a thin knife to raise up the inner part.
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4. The end of the panel nearest to the centre-line of the car is held on with two clips. Push these clips backwards and then lift the panel upwards and forwards.
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Ta-daaa
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5. Now the panel is loose, pull the whole lot upwards over the metal lip of the scuttle and towards you. You may also need to pull the panel away from the edge of the boot opening to allow for this little rubber locating piece to pull out. Don't forget that this piece needs to locate back into its hole when replacing either!!
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6. Now you can see the resistor pack clearly, circled below
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7. First, remove the wired plug from the pack. Push the two marked tabs inwards and then pull the plug off.
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Like so...
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8. The pack is held in place by 2 M6 hex-head bolts/screws. One on each side. The left-most one can be removed with a normal driver, the one on the right needs a small ratchet with a U/J linkage. A small ratchet spanner may also work.
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9. Once both fixings are removed, pull the pack out (upwards and tilt slightly forwards to clear bottom of windscreen).
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10. So here it is removed. There are 6 tabs which need to be overcome to open the unit. Fairly easy to work out how, thin knife or something works.
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11. Remove the back part of the case first. It may need a bit of persuasion as the insides are full of silicone.
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12. Now remove the front cover. Be careful to pull the cover of straight or the pins could be snapped/bent.
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13. You'll be left with this....
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14. This is the bad boy in question....
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15. Lift the tabs of the metal retainer up and over the lip in the aluminium and push the retainer forwards to relieve some pressure off the MOSFET, ***NOT TOO MUCH AS THERE ARE COMPONENTS HIDDEN UNDER THE SILICONE***.
Now bend the MOSFET forward slightly away from the heat-sink, and put a thin piece of wood/rubber down the gap between MOSFET and heatsink. This helps prevent the heatsink from sucking all the heat out of the solder/soldering iron!!
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16. Now turn upside down and pull off the silicone as best you can from the area. This shows the position of the 3 legs of the resistor. Use a hot iron and a solder sucker/gauze to remove the existing solder. Pull out the old MOSFET and solder in the new one.
***Note the new resistor is a different size, so you will need to splay out the legs slightly to fit***
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17. Now replace the metal cage and re-assemble the housing of the pack. Up to you whether you refill with silicone or not, I didn't bother.....
This photo show the difference between the old and new MOSFETs.
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Assembly back into the car is obviously the reverse of the steps above.
You should now have blissful hot and cold air working again!!
Hope that helps and good luck if you give it a shot!!
