Front Components & Amp

[Arr0nUK]

Right I've got a 182 and £200 give or take to spend on the sound system. I've already got a head unit fitted which came with the car so im not worryed about that atm.

The front standard speakers are pretty good but i want that little bit more out of them with out them distorting.

Would it make more sence to buy some upgraded components and amp them or just amp the standard ones?

Thanks

 

[-Razor-]

Personaly id buy new ones and amp them.. thats what ive done with some alpine type R's sounds great and realy clear

Up to you in the long run..

 

[agithegreat]

Hmmmmmm.
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/shopping_cart.php?cadid=2buqvaj1joqanhreejst2vhru2

Couldn't recommend anything any more!
I have the older brother of these components, the HF's not the SD's but have installed SD's in 2 peoples clio's now, they suit the job lovely.
Both lads are on here, they will chirp up, i'm sure, to tell you what these are like!

 

[wallop]

I would suggest you try to listen to a few car setups before you decide what YOU personally require....

A speaker simply reproduces sound in accordance to the signal it receives, a lower frequency will require more cone excursion & so more input power....Hence, your current speakers are distorting because your current amplifier, (Head Unit), isn't powerful enough to maintain a good clear signal, which would, in turn, result in better quality throughout a wider frequency range....

The next problem will arise through excess power causing over excursion, this is more apparent with stock speakers due to their high sensitivity, upgraded speakers will have lower sensitivity and much stiffer cone suspension, hence higher power handling....

You could simply upgrade your stock speakers, the heavier suspension & lower sensitivity will mask the distortion your currently suffering, but, this distortion is better known as signal 'clipping', this is where the speakers cone actually sits at full power for an extended period, which vastly increases the heat build up within the voice coil....This results in, at best, smelly coils, at worst, coil failure & possible amp damage to boot....

Signal Clipping is difficult to hear until its already too bad, if its distorting turn it down further than the point where it seems to clear....

A&B represent cone movement at head units SAFE max volume
C&D represent cone movement when SAFE max volume exceeded
E&F represent cone movement at normal listening levels

On trace C&D you can see how the cone reaches max voltage & sits not moving, at this point distortion is apparent.....

HTH mate....

 

[Struggler]

basically, one with out the other would only bring limited benifits,

however if the amp in youer headunit is up to scratch, id suggest looking into the speakers first, then an amp if it is running into a clip at your ideal volume.

id look into other peoples systems, as the oem speakers are by blaupunt and are not as bad as most standard speakers,

what headunit is in the car?? it could be that thats making the distortion

 

[Arr0nUK]

basically, one with out the other would only bring limited benifits,

however if the amp in youer headunit is up to scratch, id suggest looking into the speakers first, then an amp if it is running into a clip at your ideal volume.

id look into other peoples systems, as the oem speakers are by blaupunt and are not as bad as most standard speakers,

what headunit is in the car?? it could be that thats making the distortion

anyone know what the rms rating is on the standard speakers so i dont end up buying lower powered ones than i have all ready?

headunit is Sony CDX-M 7850.

 

[Da]

The standard system in a 182 is 40w RMS.

 

[wallop]

The standard system in a 182 is 40w RMS.

Should this read 4X 10w rms....

Maybe 4X 15w rms whilst playing a '0dB' 50hz test tone....

Distortion is apparent due to the amplifier within your Head Unit running out of steam mate....

A little snippet from a previous thread I did....

1, the average headunit is fused at 10amps, these 10amps at any one time are supplying;
cd laser
cd drive motor
cd laser carriage
unit illumination
flashy graphic display panel
and eventually the internal amplifier

When playing a full range signal the internal amplifier will require more power than it would if it were say playing a signal high passed at 100hz, so to translate this into basic terms, the more bass you ask your headunit to play, the more likely it is to distort,(this is due to voltage drop in the headunit, not poor speakers).

A simple test;
Play a dynamic cd, gently increase the volume until you can hear distortion, now lower the bass settings on your headunit and the distortion will stop, now increase the volume again, it should play at an increased volume without distortion.

A speaker can only reproduce what it recieves, if it recieves a good strong signal, it will reproduce a clean clear sound, if it recieves a weak signal thats ragged it will reproduce poor ragged sound,(distortion). the higher excursion that is required for lower frequencies demands a stronger signal,(which is why sub amps have higher rms ratings), and unfortunately headunits just don't have that kind of power.

When selecting a new headunit you should take into consideration exactly what you require from it. in most cases if you are fitting a headunit and using it to drive stock speakers you will notice an improvement in sound quality and output level, however if you decide to upgrade the speakers at the same time you may find its not as loud or warm,(bassy).

Most people when they detect distortion in the stock audio system run down the local audio outlet and purchase uprated speakers, then discover that it still doesn't sound any better, so they then assume the problem is that the headunit is still too powerful for the new speakers, when in truth the opposite is correct, the headunit is not powerfull enough.

HTH mate....