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Heater Blower



  The Jinx


The blower isnt working in the valver. Apparently it just stopped working so I suspect its electrical. Having read the Haynes manual it looks like a ball-ache to get the blower unit out so can I check the multi-plug and resistor without having to remove too much?

It isnt working on either of the 3 speeds. Heat is still coming through when on the move though so at least the heater hasnt packed in.

Trouble is its dark when I leave for work and dark when I get home so Im trying to gather all the problems ans solutions so I can crack on early on Sat.

So mucho help would go down a treat if anyone can do so?
 


you ahev checked the relevent fuse?????

....motor gone? if you can get into the blower try connecting it strait into 12v to see if it runs.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


you need to get to the heater rheostat so you can check the feeds to it and the feed out to the moter.there commen for the rheostat multiplug to melt and cause bad connections.remove the o/s part of the scuttle panel.you may need to remove the wiper moter and poss the computer if you cant get your hand in.i would check all the fuses first though before you strip it down.
 
  The Jinx


The heater rheostat? But the heater element is working, its just the blower thats not. Sounds like its going to be a right git to get all this out on Sat.
 
  The Jinx


Right. Not the fuse, so multi plug will be the next port of call. BTW arent the heater dials supposed to light up as theyre all out.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


Quote: Originally posted by mike8579 on 27 January 2004

The heater rheostat? But the heater element is working, its just the blower thats not. Sounds like its going to be a right git to get all this out on Sat.
the heater rheostat controls the moter it doesnt produce the heat.the rheostat regulates the various speeds and is mostly what fails when your fan stops working.the rheostat connector is a commen failure point on old clios.its the heater matrix that produces the heat due to engine coolant passing through it.
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


rheostat is clipped into the side of the fan box under the scuttle panel trim.remove the o/s part of the trim,the jack and maybe the wiper moter if you cant get your hand in.it has a multiplug going to it and a red+black wires coming out of it to the moter.
 
  The Jinx


Thats what Haynes calls the dropper resistor then. The power is reading agin at the fusebox and the blower is working on speeds 2 and 3.

So I must have 2 problems. The first being some break in the wiring/dodgy junction or faulty earth that is affecting the power. The second being that the resistor/rheostat needs changing (and thats a piece of piss to do)
 


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