HELP > loose steering!

[m888arc]

hey all,

right gotta pretty major problem - which at first i thought woz me imaging it - but it woz confermed when i got the car RRd at the weekend coz the mechanic noticed it too......

i have alot of play in the steering - for example, i could be driving competely straight -but it is possible to move the wheel from left to right (and visa versa) without the wheels actually changing direction

the geezer at the rolling road said it could be something simple like "track rod ends" but that means nothing at all to me!!

WHAT ELSE COULD THE PROBLEM BE??? helppppp!

Cheers, Marc.

PS ne1 who is interested i got 135.4bhp and 110.7lb ft (quite dissapointed but hey! it were fun )

 

[iPap]

Steering Colum!

Do a search, this has been discussed at leanght by King Stromba!

 

[Tom_16v]

Do a search, its been covered quite a few times.

There are lots of possibilities for what might be causing the problem.

Power is a tad low, but torque is a fair bit lower than standard.

Have you any mods?

& what RPM were the figures at?

 

[m888arc]

M888 ARC:

135.4bhp @ 6646rpm
110.7lb ft @ 6291rpm

il scan in the graphs at work 2mos n stick um on a post

Mods:

K&N I/K
K-Tec Racing K5 exhaust inc. decat

------------------------

ok fellas, thanks for your help will look in the morning!

 

[crono33]

hi

just posted something about it

it is a very common problem in clio, expecially the ones with big tyres apparently. all the clio williams and 16v i have driven (several) had this problem.

there is a rubber joint in the steering column just above the lower universal joint, can be seen lifting the rubber protection of the steering column just behind the pedals

i have solved the problem drilloing a hole thru it and fitting a 8mm bold and tightened til the slop went away

but my suggestion is to weld up the joint. the car will feel completely different. a LOT better. best and cheapest upgrade in a clio IMHO ;-)

the damn rubber joint lasts at the most 40-50.000 km in a williams. cant be changed separately, needs replacing of the whole steering column. 300 euro the part plus a lot of labor

gm





Quote: Originally posted by m888arc on 18 January 2004



hey all,

right gotta pretty major problem - which at first i thought woz me imaging it - but it woz confermed when i got the car RRd at the weekend coz the mechanic noticed it too......

i have alot of play in the steering - for example, i could be driving competely straight -but it is possible to move the wheel from left to right (and visa versa) without the wheels actually changing direction

the geezer at the rolling road said it could be something simple like "track rod ends" but that means nothing at all to me!!

WHAT ELSE COULD THE PROBLEM BE??? helppppp!

Cheers, Marc.

PS ne1 who is interested i got 135.4bhp and 110.7lb ft (quite dissapointed but hey! it were fun )

 

[JAY172]

poss-steering column uj

-track rod ends

-track arms

-wheel bearings

-ball joints

if you really dont know what to look for then let a mechanic have a look to be on the safe side.it would only take a few minutes to give it a quick checkover.

 

[crono33]

most mechanics dont know there is that rubber joint in the steering column and change the steering rack instead. expensive, and doesnt solve the problen. been there, done that, bought a EXPENSIVE steering rack.....

Quote: Originally posted by JAY172 on 19 January 2004



poss-steering column uj

-track rod ends

-track arms

-wheel bearings

-ball joints

if you really dont know what to look for then let a mechanic have a look to be on the safe side.it would only take a few minutes to give it a quick checkover.

 

[Tony]

Steering column shagged, thats wot it was on mine i checked all the other things it could have been found it to be the column

 

[king.stromba]

Get down where the pedals are. Get a screw driver and pull back the carpet surrounding the rubber gaiter that encloses the steering column (it dissapears into the footwell of the car behind the clutch pedal). Prize the ribber gaiter up from the floor of the car (its just held down by a rubber lip). Pull the gaiter up to expose the universal joint. Above the universal joint is another joint where the round upper steering column fits into the oval lower part. The rubber wears away here causing a gap at the joint. If you can move the steering wheel and the upper round column rotates inside the oval lower part before it couses the lower part to move, you could benefit from a. a new column or b. if you want a cheaper solution just weld it up.

 

[m888arc]

Thanks matey, i wil have a look when i get home 2nite.

Much apprciated

Marc.

 

[rockport]

the idea of the bolt sounds interesting - as crono said, can you not just drill a bolt throw and nut & bolt each end? It does sound a dodgy mind - how much for a new column?

 

[king.stromba]

About 270 fitted for a column. Bolt may weaken the shaft of the column, but the force taken on it is rotational, and not great so i would have thought it would be ok.

 

[u33db]

I think everyone inc. me has/has had this problem!

My money is on the column too - trackrod ends etc are unlikely to cause THAT much looseness. Personally id get a new or v. low milage secondhand column; you dont want to put your faith in a quick weld or small bolt when youre tanking it down a country lane at xxx mph.....imagine the consequences if it fails!

Strawberry jam......!



FYI Paul Mitchell sorted me a used column for under 100 notes.....

 

[crono33]

sorry to disagree but even a new steering column will make the steering spongy, a real pity on such a nice car. and anyway it wont last long before it gets again sloppy.
a proper welder can do a proper job and if the welding breaks u are back to the old worn joint. id say would be enough to make two welded spots on both narrow sides of the joint.

the bolt works too. the principle is to tighten enough to squeeze the external part of the joint into connecting to the internal part and eliminating all slop

the joint is made of a very mild steel, so no worries there, and easy to weld. wouldnt recommend welding if it was alloy.

gm

Quote: Originally posted by u33db on 19 January 2004
<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #407db6">I think everyone inc. me has/has had this problem!<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #407db6">My money is on the column too - trackrod ends etc are unlikely to cause THAT much looseness. Personally id get a new or v. low milage secondhand column; you dont want to put your faith in a quick weld or small bolt when youre tanking it down a country lane at xxx mph.....imagine the consequences if it fails! <FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #407db6">Strawberry jam......! FYI Paul Mitchell sorted me a used column for under 100 notes.....

 

[king.stromba]

I got to agree with crono, the joint doesnt seem to have been particulary well engineered. Its obvious that the rubber in the joint will wear first causing slackness in the steering. Even a brand ne column will not be 100 % responsive due to the felxability of the rubber. I guess it was designed to take out vibration from the suspension and wheels from the steering wheel.

Because of the shape of the joint, it would be impossible for the joint to fail after welding. All that would happen is that the steering would go back to its old worn configuration. It you were driving in a straight line this would cause no problem. If you were in a corner again it would be no problem because the slackness in the joint would be taken up by the turning of the steering wheel. Its not like you would be turning and then suddenly going straight on into a hedge. You could make double sure by also using some liquid metal in the joint to remove most of the slack, then do a weld over the top.

Also if you replace the column you will end up with a worn joint in 30,000 miles. Why not just get rid of the problem now for good and weld it? The force on the column isnt great because it is rotational. A good weld should have no reason to break.

 

[Adams_16v]

Mines like this too, gonna have a look at it today i reckon!

 

[glenn]

yesturday had new collum fitted what a difference.no loose steering or wondering!!! most likely be same problem.check track rod ends and lower ball joints too,i had a v bad lower ball joint!!

 

[king.stromba]

So how much better is it with the new column? 100%? Good as new?

 

[JAY172]

Quote: Originally posted by crono33 on 19 January 2004

most mechanics dont know there is that rubber joint in the steering column and change the steering rack instead. expensive, and doesnt solve the problen. been there, done that, bought a EXPENSIVE steering rack.....

Quote: Originally posted by JAY172 on 19 January 2004



poss-steering column uj

-track rod ends

-track arms

-wheel bearings

-ball joints

if you really dont know what to look for then let a mechanic have a look to be on the safe side.it would only take a few minutes to give it a quick checkover.

ive changed a column before because of the bush problem

 

[king.stromba]

Can the rack wear atall?

 

[JAY172]

the rack can wear internally but its rare.they normally start leaking oil before they wear out.9/10 times play in the steering assembly is the track arms not in the rack.

 

[1fast6]

Just had my steering fixed. had the joint welded by a mate in the end. now the steering is point perfect with no play!

I got a quote to replace the coloum, came to £210. Total cost of fixing it myself £0!

The coloum isnt too hard to remove to be honest, a little fiddly in places but i am so used to taking it out now (seated it wrong the first time) that i can do it in about 20mins. I would definately recommend installing the coloum yourself. there is nothing that can go wrong. its just nuts and bolts!. The UJ is even enclosed so you cant drop the bolt that connects the rack to the coloum anywhere.

No harder than lowering the torsion bar imo.

 

[king.stromba]

oooo nice to hear. Next job on my list after the drive shaft. And you know what i like about it most..........the price.