JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
I'd possibly go 9kg front and 8kg rear.
So 500lb/450lb.
So 500lb/450lb.
13kg would be to much for a car driven on the road you'd think. Will go 8/8kg and take it from there. Just need to find £800 now, lol.
Lively is definitely not for me, I had a 'lively' moment going through Island bend last time out at Oulton, I was like a granny through there the rest of the day, losing 2s a lap over last time out. I blame the rear cage for stiffening the chassis up :grin:.Stiffer rear will encourage it to be a tad more lively.
I know @NorthloopCup said he prefered the front a bit stiffer.
Lively is definitely not for me, I had a 'lively' moment going through Island bend last time out at Oulton, I was like a granny through there the rest of the day, losing 2s a lap over last time out. I blame the rear cage for stiffening the chassis up :grin:.
I'm not so bad with it at lower speed corners but at 100mph I shat myself, lol. Must keep my foot planted!
Can't wait, just saving for a deposit on our first house so not allowed to buy them yet, booooo!The roll you would have had on standard springs wouldn't have helped mate, at that speed.
It'll feel much better round Island Bend on coilovers.
Can't wait, just saving for a deposit on our first house so not allowed to buy them yet, booooo!
It's when you come down craner curve flat out with the rear trying to overtake the front and some right hand opposite lock to correct it, then have to straighten it up for the old hairpin, have the back try and overtake the front (again) and apply some left hand opposite lock to straighten the car up. That's a lively rear end! All corrected at 3 figure speeds, and I was also sporting a broken finger at the time, which I twatted on the steering wheel whilst furiously applying oppo.
It's when you come down craner curve flat out with the rear trying to overtake the front and some right hand opposite lock to correct it, then have to straighten it up for the old hairpin, have the back try and overtake the front (again) and apply some left hand opposite lock to straighten the car up. That's a lively rear end! All corrected at 3 figure speeds, and I was also sporting a broken finger at the time, which I twatted on the steering wheel whilst furiously applying oppo.
Quick update, I have just received my new BC racing DR kit with 9kg front and 8kg rear springs after the advise I received from this thread so thanks for that, the kit looks great, the only concern is the rear height adjustment, I was under the impression the kit was fully adjustable at the rear however Kam racing said the only adjustment was using the spacers for the springs, it looks like on the shock itself you can adjust the height however Kevin from Kam explained not to do this. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Thats what I was thinking, is this an issue, do you know what the height is as standard?Adjust the height using the spring perch iirc. The adjustment on the rear shock might be the set preload height.
Thats what I was thinking, is this an issue, do you know what the height is as standard?
Oh I thought we were talking about the front! LolI'm on about the rears. The front height adjustment is done using the bottom collar and physically lowering the whole coilover down.
Oh I thought we were talking about the front! Lol
Yeah it was the rear I am talking about, I understand the front end. I will go for the larger spacer at the rear, just to confirm the spacer goes on the bottom of the spring?
i've got one in at the mo on bc's with no shims on the rear if you want me to grab you a pic of how it sits?
That would be great to see
Also what firmness setting on track are most going for and any geo recommendation for track focuss?
Run my bc's on full hard, whiteline rarb, spacers, camber and 15's with some grippy tyres. Very capable setup :up:
Dampening is all personal preference really mate. You've got 30 clicks to play with, say start at 15 clicks front and rear and see how it feels.
As much camber as you can get really.
Toe out 12-15 minutes or 0.2-2.5 degrees depending what your alignment place works in.
And this is good for pure track use the settings, I have 1.2 15" alloys on order but initially I will be using 16" turinius with sticky tyres, from 16" to 15" will I have to change the full setup again?
I assume the 10ml to 15ml is measured based on the front and rear sill height to make sure the rake is correct or am I basing this on the arch to wheel measurements ?Yes mate, good for both setups. Although going from 16's to 15's you'll want to lower the ride height a bit further, so the alignment will need checking after that.
You want some rake too, so the rear being 10-15mm higher than the front.