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^^Preparation is more important than product choice though I do tend to lean towards Meguiars! Wash, and clay any products will do
Then polish - If you can hold on the KLASSE all in one i.e. paint cleaner polish and soft wax will soon be available from seriousperformance.
Should you wish to top this with the glaze sealant you will get better protection but probably not much more shine!
good pics there brazo, this ones a good comparison too
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/182_blue/Wing-InsideMasked4.jpg
Suzuki SV650
I just used a clay bar on my bonnet (bought the clay bar from Halfords of all places!), couldnt do the rest of the car as it was starting to rain, I didnt think itd make much of a difference but holy smokes, it really does make the car feel more like glass, the difference is well worth the effort. Would of taken pics but like I said, it was starting to rain and so its not that bright outside, will try to do the rest when I get a whole day.
Should I just store the clay bar in a little clean plastic bag?
Suzuki SV650
Ive got Scratch X to use after I clay it, Ive got a few scratches and my car is full of swirls although they arent really that bad and you can only see them if you really look, and if the light is right (at night in the petrol station like)
Need some decent cloths now. Do we get discount at that seriousperformance.co.uk place? Do i need to phone or just change it myself on the order form?
James to properly remove a scratch you have to level the clearcoat eitherside to the deepest part of the scratch
Alternativly you could hide it with fillers in polish and waxes.
For swirl mark removal, with say a pc as these only tend to be in the top part of your clearcoat, frequent removal (not that you should need it if you follow the former advice in this thread!) should not be a problem. Alternativly hand polishing could take the sharp edges of the swirl marks and fill them in so they are not so noticible in direct sunlight.
On IRS (isolated random scratches) you may have to go further down the clearcoat and remove more, however this is the only way to remove them, you will be less sucsessful at filling these as they can be deep. Whilst you will be removing more clearcoat here it is unlikly you will get IRS in the same place (lightening never strikes twice
) so removing more clearcoat may not necessarily be a problem. Here is a good link to scratch removal by hand with diagrams and pics
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1516http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1516
Ok ive ordered myself a PC and plan to use the old dears car as a test bed. The car has loads of swirls in it, the paints not to bad and should come up good. This is what im planning to do -
Wash - Megs Gold class shampoo
Clay - Megs quick clay
Wash again
Megs #83 (orange or green pad depending on how stubbon the swirls are)
Megs #80 (orange or green pad to remove any marring left by #83)
Pinnacle Souveran (on a blue pad for the final shine)
Not sure if I should add another step before the Souveran, maybe NXT tech wax??? What do you guys think?
The general advice is to always start low and work your up in the agressiveness order, however if the car is badly swirled I would start with #83 on an ornage pad and do a few passess before finishing with #80 on the green pad.
Nxt will be fine before the sovvy, but you can just go straight to the sovvy! You may even find it easier to apply sovvy by hand.
Oh, if you are polishing that will remove any lubricant left by the clay so a second wash is not really necessary
106 GTi
You wont go wrong with Wolfgang or Poorboys EX with Carnuba then before you Souveran.
If you havent got a car cover or garage you may be better off with the poorboys as the Wolfgang is fussy about damp while curing.
I did my car with Clearkote Vanilla Moose, Wolfgang and Souveran and its the best it looked.
Next door has a cat that likes sleeping on my sun roof, in the morning it slides down the windscreen, walks across the bonnet then jumps off, every single bloody night if its dry. I know this because he has darn messy paws and leaves a trail of muddy prints on his route! Currently got a Pearl Black Clio and its a bloody nightmare, thankfully it keeps its claws in so there is no lasting damage.
Anyways, this Clio is going soon and a Modial Blue 172 will be replacing it, I want to have a plan of action before the new one arrives! Will try a few prevention techniques such as cat repellent on the ground near the car, but any ideas of how to deal with the cleaning daily?
Its fairly loose dirt in a thin strip from sunroof to front of bonnet, I just need a quick (5mins max) way of getting rid of it every time it does it.
This is easy compared to the starlings that take up residence in nearby trees each year for a few weeks, think along the lines of 5000+ birds all dropping their breakfast and dinner over a small area and imagine the devastation. Its actually scary just walking out of the house during the morning and evening, sadly the car has nowhere to hide. Pearl Black becomes a stylish black and white splodge-fest. In that two week period I take my car over my girlfriends about 6 times to be hosed down and cleaned.Quote: Originally posted by 182_blue on 24 April 2005
best thing would be to shoot the cat
Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
Ive got the same problem with a car here. I had just done my whole bonnet perfectly with Scratch X and then layered a load of NXT on top. I see the cat jump up, then start slipping due to no traction on the slick surface. It starts running on the spot till it slowly reaches the wipers and can grip. After going out and, how shall i say this, detering the cat, i noticed it had left loads if shallow swirls from its paws, they must have a gritty surface. Took a few more passes of scratch X before it was back to normal.
I find that the only way of teaching a cat is with a pint of water, or a Super Soaker. You simply pour the water on the cat from a first floor window or somewhere. Its not really cruel as the cat will dry off and wont be hurt but will think twice about sitting on the car.
Engine Bay Detailing
Stage 1
Safety First: Water and electrics do not mix, the use of high pressure hoses and steam cleaners may be useful for some people but if you don’t know what your doing or have concerns about using those methods then this ‘cautious’ guide is for you!
Some water will be involved in this process so ensure any air filter openings, battery terminals, distributor, spark plug openings and any other electrical devices are protected with a plastic bag, wrap the bag around the item or use a wire ‘tie’ don’t use carrier bags as these have holes in them!
This stage will be the most boring but shouldn’t be skipped on. The engine bay should already be waterproof to some extent but it is best to take every precaution.
Stage 2
Degreasing the engine bay: Start by allowing the engine to warm slightly by turning it on, this will help to ‘melt’ any grease already on the engine. The engine should be hand hot.
Use a spray engine degreaser, for the bay below I used Autoglym engine and machine cleaner.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Brazoo/AGenginebay.jpg
You can do the whole bay at once but I prefer to split it into sections and work one area at a time. Spray the degreaser liberally around your chosen segment and leave it to ‘sit’ for a few minutes. Using a stiff detailing brush or I used a 1.5 inch paint brush agitate the area that you have sprayed, getting into all the nooks and crannies. To prevent splashing any on your skin it is advised that you start from the lower parts of the engine and work your way up.
Once you have cleaned one area it is time to hose off. I would advise an open hose with the water pressure at half pressure at the tap head. Simply rinse the part that you have cleaned without directing the water onto/into any electrical areas. Repeat this stage until the entire engine bay is clean.
Stage 3
Protecting the engine bay: This is the fun and easy part; simply spray Autoglym vinyl and rubber care
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Brazoo/AGVinyl.jpg
liberally onto all parts of the engine. Do not wipe off. Remove plastic bags and turn engine on for 5 minutes or go for a short drive. The heat from the engine will dry any excess material and leave a sparkling finish. You may however want to wipe large flat areas such as engine covers to prevent spotting.
And the end result.............
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Brazoo/Enginebay002.jpg
106 GTi
Leather is easy, Wipe down wipe a damp MF - 1Z Leather care or Zaino Z( & 10 for a naturaul factoy look.
Dash and plastics - 1Z Cockpit Premium or Poorboys Natural Look, both impart a factory matt look.
As for Alcantera. As long as its clean, all it needs is a damp MF.
If not...
http://forum.cliosport.net/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=5&TopicID=158314&SearchPagePosition=1&search=Alcantera&searchMode=allwords&searchIn=Topic&forum=5&searchSort=dateDESC&ReturnPage=SearchINFO HERE
Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
Im after a bit of wax advice. I want to apply a few layers of wax and do a good job. The car has been washed clayed and polished. Ive got the following:
- NXT Tech wax
-Megs #16
- Megs CC stage 3 carnuba wax.
- megs Gold class
What order should i apply these. I dont really like gold class or stage 3 as they are harder to apply and remove, so maybe just use NXT &16 but which first.
