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How to tell if immobiliser is at fault???

Car  Ph2 Meg 225
Hello, as above I would like to know as I went to car today and it wouldn't start. The fuel pumps and fans were all working on ignition but wouldn't turn over. My car is in the garage most of the time, not getting used due to not passing Test yet and only gets started once a week.

I think it's the battery that's flat as when left on fast charge for an hour it turns over but doesn't fire up.
immobiliser light flashes when keys aren't in and then solid when trying to turn over if that helps?
any help please
Kyle
 
I was going to but couldn't find the leads :( I've left it on charge until tomorrow afternoon, so hoping that will fix it :)
 
Get in the car and shut the door
Turn on the ignition
Press and hold the door lock button
Press the throttle pedal slowly down to the floor at the same time
You will hear a beep
Take finger off button and release tbe throttle pedal
Press throttle down and back up once more and turn off the ignition

Its now reset


Also check earth strap on the gearbox hasnt snapped as this will cause a solid red light to, check there is a good earth to the battery too
 
If the immobiliser light is solid when trying to turn it over then it's 100% immobiliser.

Not exactly true. Yes if it's solid it means the immobiliser is active, but there are lots of reasons for that which aren't immobiliser related.

OP, try bump starting it
 
This is why I was unsure as I've heard it before, I've had the car since June I think and it's never moved apart from in and out of garage which is why I'm hoping the battery :(
 
Try all the easy things first like i have said, also put a jump lead on your negative battery terminal and connect to the body of the car so you no its not a earth problem

Also check the uch fuse in ya fuse box isnt blown (its a 5 amp)
Next, behind passenger headlight there is a big white multiplug, pull that apart and spray some wd40 init and put back together

If all this fails it will most likely be a break in the canbus wiring inside the main ecu-uch wiring loom 100%
 
It only flashes rapidly when its not recognised the key, this is usually a key fault or the decoder ring has stopped working
 
Just got back and all though it had been on charge for 30 hours, the charger only said 75% but hey ho. The car wouldn't start at first but once it was locked and unlocked, started first time multiple times so must have been flat. Look after your car it looks after you ;)
 
Get in the car and shut the door
Turn on the ignition
Press and hold the door lock button
Press the throttle pedal slowly down to the floor at the same time
You will hear a beep
Take finger off button and release tbe throttle pedal
Press throttle down and back up once more and turn off the ignition

Its now reset


Also check earth strap on the gearbox hasnt snapped as this will cause a solid red light to, check there is a good earth to the battery too

Iv never heard so much cobblers in my life! All your doing by doing that is activating the RAID function. Nothing to do with the immobiliser.

So you get in your car and try to start it? Does the starter motor turn over? Does the red led on e dash board go out, stay solid or flash rapidly?
 
Iv never heard so much cobblers in my life! All your doing by doing that is activating the RAID function. Nothing to do with the immobiliser.

So you get in your car and try to start it? Does the starter motor turn over? Does the red led on e dash board go out, stay solid or flash rapidly?

Is the second bit aimed at me? :)
 
I'd say so. There's 4 parts to the immobiliser. Key/decoder ring/UCH/ecu. If the immobiliser is preventing the start the might will flash rapidly. Usually as the key has gone out of sync. The immobiliser will not stop the cranking. This is a different fault.
 
Means that they key is recognised by the uch but there is a problem With the ecu getting the code. More than likely down to it not being powered up or a multiplex wire broken in the wiring loom somewhere.
 
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