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on my clio 1.8 16v (old shape) I had the problem of high idling. once the car went over a certain idle point it idle at something ridiculously high like 2500rpm. I changed the speedo cable and the problem was solved.
Dont know if this will help you out but i thought i would post just in case
Dont know if this will help you out but i thought i would post just in case
it might not relate...but i had this prob on my 1.2/ it turned out to be the mixture senser on the throttle body (air flow one, cant remember the name, MAT sensor?) anywayz, it was just a dirty joint on the sensor. it made engine's idle speed slowly increase to almost 3000rpm (over 5 to 10 mins)....
Audi TT 225
manifold actual pressure sensor?
I took it all off again, resealed, fresh gaskets. At first it seemed absolutly fine, then I drove it really carefully and it seemed fine. (from cold)
Then took it for another trip a little while later and gave it a bit more gas, seemed to be holding back. By the time I got home it was doing the same idle stupid thing, engine hot.
But now Ive got another problem, as I was tightning the rear right bolt on the plenham then noticed it wasn't getting tight but the bolt was right down. I didn't even apply pressure I just screwed it down most of the way by hand. It came back out and there was metal in the threads of the bolt.
So now thats another thing nackered!
FYI before I forget bens, Remember we were talking about places the engine could suck air from if the ISCV pipe was blocked.
I inspected the TB again, there are two holes each side of the throttle plate, they both connect down to the oil breather pipe at the bottom. I sprayed carb cleaner through it to clean it. So the engine can suck a small amount of air through this passage.
I took it all off again, resealed, fresh gaskets. At first it seemed absolutly fine, then I drove it really carefully and it seemed fine. (from cold)
Then took it for another trip a little while later and gave it a bit more gas, seemed to be holding back. By the time I got home it was doing the same idle stupid thing, engine hot.
But now Ive got another problem, as I was tightning the rear right bolt on the plenham then noticed it wasn't getting tight but the bolt was right down. I didn't even apply pressure I just screwed it down most of the way by hand. It came back out and there was metal in the threads of the bolt.
So now thats another thing nackered!
FYI before I forget bens, Remember we were talking about places the engine could suck air from if the ISCV pipe was blocked.
I inspected the TB again, there are two holes each side of the throttle plate, they both connect down to the oil breather pipe at the bottom. I sprayed carb cleaner through it to clean it. So the engine can suck a small amount of air through this passage.
Last edited:
Audi TT 225
FAO Ben_P
I drove it to work today mate, much better but once the engine warms up and its done some high revs Im still getting a bit of a high rev 1500 but it will settle back down again.
It HAS to be an air leak mate. Its either going to be your TB joint or the lower seal with the rubber ring on it. My problems, I think, stem from the lower seal.
My mpg has gone from 42 normal
26 mpg when it was idling like crazy
Now Im getting 36-38 mpg so its an improvement.
It seems like its working fine then when the pressure becomes too much in the manifold it starts to bleed air in from some where.
Ive not got a nightmate with my bolts since the threads on one of the holes have gone and I snapped one where the two sections of the manifold meet. Man my engines made of cheese!
Oh an anyone who wants to know about how to polish the manifold etc I will write a guide and get it posted, quite a few of you have asked so its easier if I write a guide for you all.
I drove it to work today mate, much better but once the engine warms up and its done some high revs Im still getting a bit of a high rev 1500 but it will settle back down again.
It HAS to be an air leak mate. Its either going to be your TB joint or the lower seal with the rubber ring on it. My problems, I think, stem from the lower seal.
My mpg has gone from 42 normal
26 mpg when it was idling like crazy
Now Im getting 36-38 mpg so its an improvement.
It seems like its working fine then when the pressure becomes too much in the manifold it starts to bleed air in from some where.
Ive not got a nightmate with my bolts since the threads on one of the holes have gone and I snapped one where the two sections of the manifold meet. Man my engines made of cheese!
Oh an anyone who wants to know about how to polish the manifold etc I will write a guide and get it posted, quite a few of you have asked so its easier if I write a guide for you all.
Audi TT 225
Mines running ok ish but its not perfect. Im gonna get a new O ring and another set of gaskets. But Ive now got two sheered bolts on the front of the manifold and the threads have chewed on one of the rear ones..... my engines made of cheese...... french cheese.....
Its the O ring thats doing it Im sure...
Good excuse to get it all off again and port match it lol
Its the O ring thats doing it Im sure...
Good excuse to get it all off again and port match it lol
Audi TT 225
Yeah I'll have to use a slightly bigger bolt on the back one 
Im thinking if I take the lower manifold off then theres a chance I can get the sheered bolts out without drilling because theres loads poking out each side.
The first one popped as soon as I tried to undo it the first time, killed the other one trying to stop the air leak, doh! Then dont know how the back one went I threaded the bolt in and it wouldn't tighten so took it out and the threads were toast...
Im thinking if I take the lower manifold off then theres a chance I can get the sheered bolts out without drilling because theres loads poking out each side.
The first one popped as soon as I tried to undo it the first time, killed the other one trying to stop the air leak, doh! Then dont know how the back one went I threaded the bolt in and it wouldn't tighten so took it out and the threads were toast...
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