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ICE install Help!!!!





Planning on a install for the boot of the car. I dont va ne back seats so space isnt an issue. My plan was 2x15" subs and a set of components in the back running off a amp or 2.

Ive found 2x15" JBL subs brand new 1000w peak 250wRMS for £75 each and also found a JBL 6ch 1100w peak amp to run everything off (There is also a 4ch 600w peak version as well)

i dont need boxes all i need is the subs and power to run em any help or guidance would be much help

THIS INSTALL IS NOT FOR COMPETITIONS, I DONT HAVE TONS OF CASH TO THROW AT IT SO BUDGET OF AROUND £300 WOULD BE IDEAL
 


bit of both

1. want something to fill the boot

2. something thatll sound half decent and not farty which some subs do

3. give me a near heart attack if i really want it too

ive gone out and bought the 15s and the amp so all will be in within a week or 2
 


hmmmm youll be a bit lucky with a budget like that. Probably worth checking out some second hand bargains.

The first problem is that the GTO 6000 wont power 2x 15" subs...It would even struggle with 1. To get any decent amount of bass you will need a good amp for them.Something with 500watts RMS @ 2ohm or more will do the job but youre looking at over £300 for the amp.

The subs you have chosen arent too bad for the money. Get a decent monoblock amp for the subs and a half decent 4 channel amp for the fronts and rears and youll be doing alright. Also you might want to invest in a couple of electrical system upgrades e.g. bigger battery if you havent already.

What do you mean by you dont need a box. Have you already got those. Are they the right cuft size for the JBL 15s.

PS - With the equipment you want to get and the budget you have, you wont get ground shaking bass or decent sound quality. Ive spent 8k on my system and its still not loud enough for my liking.

Russ
 


Like i said the i aint buyin it for competitions, i dont have another £3k to spend on it so 3 amps is out the question. i dont have any back seats so i have a huge space to fill hence y i went with the 2x15" approach and the fact i bought these near half price brand new it was a bargain.

As for the boxes i have a mate who is an ICE installer and is sortin me out with a custom install.

As for the amp, i have seen this run 2x12" kenwood subs and a set of components and the bass it produced was absolutley amazing. The GTO 6000 i have checked the specs and the RMS is only 50w different from the subs RMS

im also thinkin bout buyin a power cap to help, worth it?
 


A cap is a pointless addition. It wont help at all..It mght even make problems.

The GTO 6000 puts out about 250watts RMS on the sub channel...thats nowhere near enough to power 2 15s..maybe 1 at a push.

If you are on a tight budget then I would get a half decent amp like the GTO 4000 for your speakers and save up a bit longer for a decent sub amp like a Rockford bd500 or 501...You wont regret it.

Russ
 


well the subs are 250w RMS each

I was told power cap would help as it will save up power and deliver it to the amp when needed, ys it not a good idea?
 


the problem with caps is that when they send the power to the amp, they still have to refill themselves. Then you are getting draw from your amp and your cap on the battery...on a long low bass line or intensive bassy track you can actually get less performance from the amp.

Much better to get a bigger battery with a decent AH and CCA rating, or even a second battery if you are planning on running more than 1 amp at some stage.

With regards to the subs. The GTO6000 will power 1 of the subs at 4ohm bridged but its better to have a bit of headroom. Also I think the amp makes the 250watts @ 14.4v which you will never get...I would say 13.5ish is more likely.

If you put both subs onto that amp they will either only get 125watts RMS each or if bridged will see a larger figure. I wouldnt recommend running that amp at 2ohm bridged though unless you want a smoke machine in your boot.
 


Best thing to do if ur worried about draining power is to uprate ur alternator 1st and then maybe consider the battery.

And has for the JBL GTO range of amps, avoid them, trust me! Pile of sh*te that they are!
 
  Stanced Honda S2000


rosco, gto amps are ok. mines been fine. only run my front speakers and 6*9soff it tho and i have a kenwwood 1000watt running 2*12inch 400watt rms each rockford fosgates.
 


I know theyre not great for ICE but if you want a cheap powerful sub amp what about a Sony XMD1000P5 ?

Quite cheap and 1 x 900RMS @ 2ohms
 


wouldnt touch Sony with a 10ft pole, cheers for the help but its like saying SPLX do a 1000w amp (which they do) and sayin thatll be good
 


Quote: Originally posted by Evil ICE on 17 March 2004


If you put both subs onto that amp they will either only get 125watts RMS each or if bridged will see a larger figure. I wouldnt recommend running that amp at 2ohm bridged though unless you want a smoke machine in your boot.
Cool! :p
 


lol white16valver....ive had that happen a fair few times...running amps under impedance is a wonderful thing

Essex Lad - To be fair, even though Sony stuff is sh*te in general. The big Class D 1600watt class D amp isnt actually too bad for the money. My Ex had one split between 4 Sony pentagon 12s in a 6cuft box built by myself and got 141.2db with it...not bad for a cheap system...although the SQ was...shall we be nice...different!!!!

Sony and JBL arent exactly worlds apart in the ICE market. SPLX are off the scale of toss. Sakura (im told) who are the manufacturers of SPLX actually speciaise in washing machine parts...hmmm lovely.

Im not being funny or anything but im intrigued as to what wonders you have heard the GTO amps produce. If you like ill let you sit in my car and see what you think.

Russ
 


y wot got in urs?

i am goin from experience and i know for a fact that the JBL subs are quality for ther money and the amp i have seen run 2 x 12 " kenwoods and a set of components and i could hardly see it was that bassy. i have spent £250 so far and thats all i intend to spend as i go uni later this yr and have no cash at all
 


If youre strapped for cash then thats a decent starter system...dont get me wrong. We all have to start somewhere. I started with a couple of Kenwood subs and a Legacy amp. I bet 2 months down the line you will have got used to it and want to change again though...its always the same.

Heres a list of my system spec and a couple of pictures before the boot build got changed. Its hitting just over 150db (Audiocontrol mics) at the moment which is nearly 4 times louder than a Boeing 747 taking off from 100 feet away....so I believe. Ive posted these pics before I just cant remember where.

http://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/cliowithoutplate.jpghttp://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/cliowithoutplate.jpg

http://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/dsc00019.jpg

http://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/18.jpghttp://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/18.jpg

http://www.evilice.freeservers.com/images/31.jpg

Source

Panasonic CQ-FX800N

Panasonic DP-9061 6 Disc CD Changer in Glovebox Build

Audiocontrol Epic 150 Bass Processor

Front

3 Pioneer 2 Way 6x9s in each door

5.25" Magnat Stratos 2-Way Components

Alpine Tweeters in Mirror Control Housings

Alpine Tweeters in Roof

Rear End Build and Subs

Pioneer 2-Way 6x9s Behind Front Seats

Alpine 5" Mid-Range Behind Head

2 Kicker 15" Solobaric L7 Square Subwoofers in Rear build (Sealed 3.0cuft 1" thick Enclosure)

2x Resonant Engineering HC12 Subwoofers in Boot Build (Ported 3.0cuft 1" thick Enclosure)

Pioneer 6x9s on rear shelf (Separate from boot area)

Amplifiers

2x Rockford Fosgate bd500.1 Class D monoblocks (Each Powering an HC12 sub @ 1Ohm)

2x Audiobahn A18001DT 1800 Watt Class D monoblocks (Each Powering a Kicker Solobaric L7 Sub @ 1Ohm)

Kicker Impulse IX402 (Powering Rear Speakers)

Alpine V12 800Watt (Powering all 14 Front Speakers)

Audio / Visual

Removable 15" LG TFT screen with TV Tuner

Playstation 2 in False Floor Build

233Mhz PC with Infra Red Keyboard and Mouse




Power



4 Batteries - 1x Type 065 + 3x Optima Yellow Top Deep Cycle

330 Watt Power Inverter

2 and 4 Gauge cable throughout

Other

Fridge/Heater
 


You say about upgrading the alterantor, how would you do this, and where would you buy one from?

Also running a second battery, how woudl you hook it up so it charges when the car is running?
 


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