Amp To Crossover

[JakeyCUK]

Hi all, I will be installing my new ICE this Sunday. Just got a few questions regarding wiring!

My Infinity Reference 5030cs speakers didn't come with any wiring apart from the tweeter & woofer to crossover cables.
I will be picking up all of the extras I need this Saturday and was wondering what gauge to get? Amp is JBL GTO 75.2 and will be supplying 145W RMS x 2 channels @ 2 ohms.

Most sources say 16AWG but this seems to vary from site to site. Now do I also need to use this 16AWG wire from crossover to the comps? Or is it ok to use the supplied wire? I don't know what the gauge is but surely they would supply the max the speakers can take? This is probably a really daft question but this is the first time I have amped speakers! There is also a sub going in the boot but I don't think that will have any affect on this side.

I know there are several threads on "what gauge" but I am more interested in if I need to change the supplied wires that run from the crossover to the components!

Thanks a lot and happy xmas!

 

[JakeyCUK]

Sorry for the short timescale bump but I am about to go and pick up some wires so wondering if anyone knew? If not I will see if the staff can help :up::smile:

 

[JakeyCUK]

Any audio experts help me out on this one?

 

[Goodj]

This amp?
10awg from amp to crossover.
May as well use existing wires from x-over to cones.

 

[JakeyCUK]

This amp?
10awg from amp to crossover.
May as well use existing wires from x-over to cones.

Nope, this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001SRJXNO/?tag=cliospnet01-21 slightly higher wattage at 2 ohms. 2x145 watts. I was told around that figure and I shouldn't use the existing wiring?

Thanks for the help

 

[JakeyCUK]

This amp?
10awg from amp to crossover.
May as well use existing wires from x-over to cones.

Ok I will get some 10AWG wire. Can you please just clear something up though. In the picture below I understand the the 10AWG wire will be used to replace from woofer to crossover and from crossover to amp right? How come you don't have to replace the short bits of cable that come on new tweeters? Surely this will have the same power running through it as the woofers?

 

[Goodj]

All valid questions sir.
The crossover will shove the majority of the wattage into the woofers, as they need as much as they can get.
Tweeters only need a blim of power in comparison, for this reason they don't tend to have big meaty wires.
In honesty, if your speakers are rated to handle the power that you're feeding them, the supplies cables from speaker-to-xover will most likely be fine.
Indeed, unless you're running a mental, competition-spec system with many huge amps, you'd get away with using any old bit of bellwire.
10awg: amp to x-over
Anything: x-over to speakers

Don't get me wrong, you're going to be running more watts than many do in their car, but it's not enough to warrant a massive tear-down of your wiring.
Once you start trying to feed your tweeter wires through the dash, after taking the dash off to get the sods out in the first place, you'll understand

This is why I commonly say that the 1st best step to any Clio ICE upgrade is:

1: replace headunit with something decent
2: switch on high-pass filter on HU, cutting bass to speakers
3: fit small sub. Iro 2-300w.
4: lots of anti-rattle paste in the doors.

The standard RS speakers are genuinely quite good, just take the bass off them and they'll be fine. The sub then fills in the rest.
Either a boot-mount or underseat, you can't lose

 

[JakeyCUK]

All valid questions sir.
The crossover will shove the majority of the wattage into the woofers, as they need as much as they can get.
Tweeters only need a blim of power in comparison, for this reason they don't tend to have big meaty wires.
In honesty, if your speakers are rated to handle the power that you're feeding them, the supplies cables from speaker-to-xover will most likely be fine.
Indeed, unless you're running a mental, competition-spec system with many huge amps, you'd get away with using any old bit of bellwire.
10awg: amp to x-over
Anything: x-over to speakers

Don't get me wrong, you're going to be running more watts than many do in their car, but it's not enough to warrant a massive tear-down of your wiring.
Once you start trying to feed your tweeter wires through the dash, after taking the dash off to get the sods out in the first place, you'll understand :wink:

This is why I commonly say that the 1st best step to any Clio ICE upgrade is:

1: replace headunit with something decent
2: switch on high-pass filter on HU, cutting bass to speakers
3: fit small sub. Iro 2-300w.
4: lots of anti-rattle paste in the doors.

The standard RS speakers are genuinely quite good, just take the bass off them and they'll be fine. The sub then fills in the rest.
Either a boot-mount or underseat, you can't lose

Ah ok, that makes a lot of sense! I actually already have the whole install bought now from xmas presents . I do like quite a lot of bass (inb4chav) so threw a bit more into than most. I do agree though, just replacing my HU and playing with the EQ has made me see why the standard component setup is pretty decent already! Heavily lacking in bass however, but this is why you recommend a sub.

I will use the supplied speaker cable from x-over to speakers then, I think the amp actually came with some 10awg cable to might not even have to buy anything else. If I don't get too stressed and repeatedly cut my fingers and hands I will try to make an up to date guide!

Thanks again for your help, I was getting pretty confused about the tweeters! Great help

 

[Goodj]

There you go then chap. Good luck with it!
There's nothing chavvy about having bass, per se.
But rumbling down a high street on a Saturday afternoon, or up and down estates late at night....that's where subs get the reputation.
Without wanting to rain on you parade, you may find that your new components, although better quality, may not go much lower than the stock gear. As well as wattage, you need more cone area to generate the lower tones but you're replacing 13cm cones with different 13cm cones. There will be a limit as to how low they can reach, that's just physics.
See how you get along though then judge if you need something rumbly in the boot. Remember it won't need to be a twin-12" 40,000w set-up, just enough to balance out with your speakers.
I'll assume you're keeping the stock rear speakers in place (they are worth keeping in, and since they're already wired in, why not) so, with the amp and 1/2 your headunit power combined maybe 400w of bass would be about right.

 

[JakeyCUK]

Yup exactly, got the new comps purely for a better clarity and general better quality. As for the bass I have already purchased a Vibe BlackAir v12 (active) got the newer model. Not usually one for active subs but have heard the exact model in a similar sized car and was really impressed, managed to get it for £80 delivered so really can't grumble when they are around £160 new! Apparently good for 550watts, certainly felt up about that figure and plenty for a Clio.
Will be keeping the stock rears unless they decide to die on me! So hopefully will have it all fitted this weekend ready for for some late night estate cruising :tonguewink:

Thanks again for your help, and on a previous thread I made! :up: