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Ideas for boot setup
- Thread starter Milo123
- Start date
BMW 330ci Clubsport
work out how much space you have in your car with your gear in it. then decide if you can get away with a box for a 12" sub, or if you need to settle for a 10" sub
dont bother with 6x9's, they just do loudness not quality or bass
although boxed 6x9's do sound quite good
dont bother with 6x9's, they just do loudness not quality or bass
although boxed 6x9's do sound quite good
Mk1 Ph3
Well I listen to a lot of Drum and Bass and Dubstep but also Indie (Don't be hating :rasp
and so I like to have bass yet clarity as well and that's why I like 6x9s.
Components?
and so I like to have bass yet clarity as well and that's why I like 6x9s.Components?
Iceberg Ph1
Well I listen to a lot of Drum and Bass and Dubstep but also Indie (Don't be hating :rasp
Components?
Components basically replace the OE speakers in the car (tweeters and door), and are usually a hell of a lot better sounding then 6x9. They use a crossover which basically splits treble to the tweeters and mid range to the door. bass would come from a sub and amp combo.
I would go for this option any day tbh!
Mk1 Ph3
It's my first car c'mon
Ahh right, so does it normally come with both a tweeter and mid? I've looked around eBay and there are quite a few on there, can anyone recommend some good value for money ones preferably less than £40/£50?
Component speakers include a pair of tweeters and woofers, connected by a crossover.
The crossover (small box normally) filters the sound, to make sure the smaller tweeters (ones in the dash of Clio's) and the larger woofers (13cm ones in the doors of Clio's) are outputting the correct frequencies of sound, to ensure the quality is maximised.
I.e the tweeters play the higher frequencies, but not the lower frequencies, and the woofers play the lower frequencies, but not the really high frequencies.
Normally its advised once you have connected the tweeter and woofer to the crossover, to connect the crossover input to an external amp, which itself is connected to the headunit, to ensure the components are receiving adequate power, which most headunits will not do.
Edit: generally the size of the speaker is the diameter of the outer rim. standard Clio door speakers are 13cm/5.25"
The crossover (small box normally) filters the sound, to make sure the smaller tweeters (ones in the dash of Clio's) and the larger woofers (13cm ones in the doors of Clio's) are outputting the correct frequencies of sound, to ensure the quality is maximised.
I.e the tweeters play the higher frequencies, but not the lower frequencies, and the woofers play the lower frequencies, but not the really high frequencies.
Normally its advised once you have connected the tweeter and woofer to the crossover, to connect the crossover input to an external amp, which itself is connected to the headunit, to ensure the components are receiving adequate power, which most headunits will not do.
Edit: generally the size of the speaker is the diameter of the outer rim. standard Clio door speakers are 13cm/5.25"
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Mk1 Ph3
Are you sure the Mk1 has door speakers because there's nothing to indicate that it does e.g. a mesh/grill. But it does have 3.5/4" speakers either side at the front, one near to the ignition and one next to the glove box. This is why I'm having trouble choosing what to do
I'm free tomorrow so I was going to take my door card off to see if there is a speaker there but I don't really want to do it if it definitely doesn't have a speaker in the door?
I'm free tomorrow so I was going to take my door card off to see if there is a speaker there but I don't really want to do it if it definitely doesn't have a speaker in the door?
Are you sure the Mk1 has door speakers because there's nothing to indicate that it does e.g. a mesh/grill. But it does have 3.5/4" speakers either side at the front, one near to the ignition and one next to the glove box. This is why I'm having trouble choosing what to do
I'm free tomorrow so I was going to take my door card off to see if there is a speaker there but I don't really want to do it if it definitely doesn't have a speaker in the door?
Ah sorry didn't realise you were asking about a Mk1. The sizes I said were for a Mk2. Don't know if Mk1's have tweeters in the dash either?
Mk1 Ph3
Really? I'm picking up some valver door cards soon, possibly for free :rasp: will they just be a straight fit?
None
I'm currently doing a custom boot floor in my 182, i also need the space in my boot so a sub box is out, basically i'll be raising the floor so that it's level with the boot slam panel then i can still put my seat backs forward without loss of room, it's a hell of a job but i think it will be worth the time spent, i have only put a 10" sub in mine but there is plenty of room for two 6x9's too if you want them
Iceberg 172
Mate, it's your 1st car. You don't have a huge budget and you want bang for buck. Slap some 6x9's in the shelf with some better co-axial (tweeter and woofer in one speaker) in the dash.
Stick a vibe 10" active sub in the boot which is easily removable if need be with the right connectors if you need extra space.
That'll sound fine. Nice and loud.
Worry about sound quality when you've got a bit more cash behind you as it gets expensive!
I've heard plenty of systems using 6x9's that have sounded great. I've heard plenty of sets of cheap components not powered properly sounding s**t.
Stick a vibe 10" active sub in the boot which is easily removable if need be with the right connectors if you need extra space.
That'll sound fine. Nice and loud.
Worry about sound quality when you've got a bit more cash behind you as it gets expensive!
I've heard plenty of systems using 6x9's that have sounded great. I've heard plenty of sets of cheap components not powered properly sounding s**t.
the door cards are a staight fit.
but the door carts trim will be different to the rest of the car no??
Iceberg 172
That wasn't meant to sound patronising by the way!
Just trying to give my honest view on what's your best route.
With the setup I've suggested you can easily upgrade at a later date by adding an amp to the dash speakers and 6x9's.
Just trying to give my honest view on what's your best route.
With the setup I've suggested you can easily upgrade at a later date by adding an amp to the dash speakers and 6x9's.
Mk1 Ph3
I'm hopefully getting some valver seats too
Yeah but 6x9s are hassle to detach when I'm putting my equipment in it etc. and so I need something which is easily removable.
Iceberg 172
They aren't with the right connectors mate. You can fit a plug which disconnects with 1 tug and you parcel shelf will come out as normal. I'm on my iPhone ATM but I'll post some pics and links tomorrow of what you'll need.
I've run 6x9's (a long time ago) but with infiniti speakers up front and a cheap s**t clarion sub in the boot of a 106... Sounded good considering what it cost. In such a small shitty French tin can which rattles to f**k there really is no point in buying silly expensive equipment unless you're going all out with sound deadening etc.
I've run 6x9's (a long time ago) but with infiniti speakers up front and a cheap s**t clarion sub in the boot of a 106... Sounded good considering what it cost. In such a small shitty French tin can which rattles to f**k there really is no point in buying silly expensive equipment unless you're going all out with sound deadening etc.
Mk1 Ph3
But then again won't the wires be weak after disconnecting many times? And if I'm getting cheap if not free door cards, I could fit speakers there instead of the 6x9s?
Iceberg 172
No the wires would be fine.
You could do but 6x9's are cheap and loud. For the money you can't beat them. If you want to spend £300 I'd suggest a 2 channel amp powering a decent set of components in the front and stick a sub in the boot. £100 on speakers, £100 on an amp and I think the active vibe stuff is around £100 - £150.
But for under £100 some door/dash speakers and some 6x9's will be money well spent IMO depending on how long you intend to keep it like that.
You could do but 6x9's are cheap and loud. For the money you can't beat them. If you want to spend £300 I'd suggest a 2 channel amp powering a decent set of components in the front and stick a sub in the boot. £100 on speakers, £100 on an amp and I think the active vibe stuff is around £100 - £150.
But for under £100 some door/dash speakers and some 6x9's will be money well spent IMO depending on how long you intend to keep it like that.
Iceberg 172
Why not?
Iceberg 172
What head unit do you have?
What is your budget?
What is your budget?
dont think theres a point in 6x9 if he is doing up the front speakers and having a sub.just my opinion.
milo did you get the rev clock going??
also as for the radio.do you use cd's or ipod?
Iceberg 172
This is what you might need
Thanks mate!
Mk1 Ph3
Head unit: http://www.dvbcaraudio.co.uk/audio-t18200-player-p-8590.html
Budget for all speakers etc. is around £140/£150 but preferably less
Nope, didn't get the rev clock going in the end just didn't know where the wire from the coilpack was. Didn't understand what the guy was trying to get at in the valver thread.
I use iPod and USB now, don't really use CDs much!
Mk1 Ph3
Yeah but the product description for the Vibe Fast Plug says "Quick release plug allows fast removal of active bass boxes or amplifiers" not 6x9s?
Iceberg 172
Trust me mate please... You can get a very similar product for speaker cables!
With your budget I'd be going for some front components and some 6x9's but do what you feel is the right thing!
With your budget I'd be going for some front components and some 6x9's but do what you feel is the right thing!
At the end of the day, its whatever your happy with no matter what other people may say, price wise and sound wise
The joys are once you've got a basic install, it becomes much easier to upgrade when funds allow.
The joys are once you've got a basic install, it becomes much easier to upgrade when funds allow.
