Inthe middle of doing my cambelt and i'm struggling to get the TDC locking pin in

[Strettman]

Hi guys, i am in the middle of doing my cambelt on my 182 and i'm struggling on locking the crank with the TDC pin. I have taken the torx bolt out of the front of the engine block next to the gearbox and put the TDC pin in. I have a screw driver on cylinder 1 (closest to the gearbox) and it is on TDC but i just cannot get the pin in, any ideas?

thanks

 

[Strettman]

Does anyone also know the size of the allen socket i will need to undo the dephaser? Thanks

 

[Strettman]

Anyone got any ideas? I can get the horse shoe tool to lock with the piston at TDC, but i just can't get the TDC pin to go in all the way and lock the crank.

 

[MG cup]

Make sure your going REALLY slow in a clockwise direction on the crank, its best to get someone to help although just possible yourself. It will drop in a few times into the crank web balancing holes but you will know when it goes into the timing slot as it goes deeper. Make sure you check it by rocking it both ways, it can slide down the other side of the crank web too but again it will become obvious when your in the timing slot.

I use my sump plug set for the cap on the dephaser (circa 14 or 16mm) but its actually fixed to the engine by a 16 or 18mm bolt under that cap.

 

[Strettman]

Should the piston be right at TDC when the pin locks into place? I just got the pin to lock in but it was about 1CM short of TDC

thanks

 

[Dan@SJM]

Cams locked in place have a look through the timing mark hole on the box and the. Rotate the crank to suit. There is a line that makes where it lines up at TDC.

14mm for the dephaser cap.

 

[Strettman]

Cheers for the reply, where is the hole i should be looking through on the gearbox?

thanks

 

[Strettman]

Is it normal for the pin to go in approx 1cm before TDC?

 

[Dan@SJM]

yeh that's a balance hole. most common f**k up on the timing of these. brings them down to about 150bhp.

 

[Chri5]

Easily done! As Dan says it will slot into a balancing hole or butt against the edge of the crank (depending which way you turn it) But its easy to get right if you turn it really slow and feel the pin into the slot. This may help clarify



On another note, fancy selling me the tools when you're done?

 

[Strettman]

Brilliant thanks, i managed to get the pin in properly after pushing down on my ratchet with my foot and pushing the pin in with my hand, lockked dead on TDC now. i can't do anything until wednesday now though but i hope i get it fin ished by then!

where did you get that manual from chris?

i may consider selling them afterwards

thanks

 

[Chri5]

No worries!

I cant actually remember where or who I got it from (that pic was taken from another post) But I've got the PDF version somewhere, may have to check my external drive but it has the whole procedure start to finish. Will have a look & PM you.

 

[Strettman]

cool if you can find it that would be excellent!!!!

is there anyways of making more room at the side of the engine (cambelt side)? at the minute it is extremely tight and i am going to be doing the waterpump and aux belt kit.

thanks

 

[Chri5]

Ive only done it before with the engine out so didnt have that issue, but the next one will still be in situ.

What have you removed so far? Ideally it'll need the engine mount removing which I guess you have, the manifold unbolting, so that you can move the engine about without straining it, the dogbone mount for the same reason.
That way you can jack the engine up aswell as drop it down lower too, to give you some room to manouver.

Thats what I'd do at a guess, but as I said I've not done one with the engine still in.

 

[VikkiB]

Leave the manifold on.

jack the engine up and down to do the belts etc, remove the bumper and headlight. That's all I can remember when I did mine under Dan's supervision.

 

[Strettman]

so far i have just the top engine mount off it moves around a fair bit with it off but i need the whole engine moving more towards the gearbox side to give me more room, it's not essential but it would be much easier to work on.

i'll take the dogbone of wednesday and see if that makes any differences

thanks

 

[VikkiB]

The dog bone isn't the problem on 182's. It's the manifold. You can do them without doing any of that. It's just a bit fiddly. You need to remove one if the idlers before you can remove the lower cover fully.

 

[Cupman29]

What procedure are you following or are you just trying to fudge your way through it?

 

[Chri5]

Hes' got the manual now

 

[Strettman]

The dog bone isn't the problem on 182's. It's the manifold. You can do them without doing any of that. It's just a bit fiddly. You need to remove one if the idlers before you can remove the lower cover fully.

ok thanks, i'll just have to put up with it how it is then! haha, i am not looking forward to the aux belt, tensioners and waterpump change now.

What procedure are you following or are you just trying to fudge your way through it?

i was following the guide that someone put on here a while ago but i have got a proper renault guide now and will be using that to finish the job off on wednesday.

thanks

 

[Chri5]

The aux belt tensioner is a bit of a pig without the tool or a home made version. Some people use a big jubilee clip to compress the tensioner to get it in and the belt on then undo the clip.

 

[Fred@BTM]

use the window on the gearbox to MAKE SURE you have the pin in the right slot, the line on flywheel lines up with 0 on box

 

[Strettman]

thanks for all the info guys! i will be continuing where i left off tomorrow morning and will hopefully have it all up and running again by tomorrow night.

i will check the above and will make sure everything is correct before re-assembly.

thanks

 

[midge]

Anyone got a download for the renault pdf guide?

 

[Strettman]

The dephaser doesn't need to key on to the engine at all does it? I'm geussing it's just fit it and make sure it is sat correctly with how the cambelt sits on it? Does anyone know the torque the dephaser bolt needs to be too?

thanks!

 

[Fred@BTM]

you have slackened off the exhaust pulley also haven't you? That HAS to be slackened when replacing the belt and dephaser

dephaser goes on anyway you like, as does exhaust pulley

fit belt and tension making sure tensioner DOES NOT pass exhaust stud line

rotate the lot BACKWARDS, double check tensioner

fit pulley locking tool (horseshoe will already be present)

torque up in order, inlet 120nm, exh 30nm + 86deg, crank 40nm + 110deg

remove all locking tools, rotate engine 8-10 times, reinsert locing pin into crank and horseshoe should slide in using 3 fingers, anymore then timing is wrong

 

[Strettman]

i did all the above and everything is great!!!! thanks, it feels like it's got some more power than before, from 2nd to 3rd at the redline just feels loads quicker

thanks again!