Is this a acoustic valve?

[psycho]

PSYCHO..thx for that i now c what you mean i took it of this morning and left it for an hour or so, connected it back up and the car seems much more responsive now just hope it last's...

Depending on how you drive the ECU will relearn your concervative daily driving and make an equaly concervative engine map adjustment (within the small scope that it works with). Its hard to say how long it lasts so its best to just do it when you want the engines full potential, like at the track or before a cruise.

I'd love to see a dyno test for this, pre reset and post reset. The power output would probably be the same but I wonder what the two curves would look like.

Any of the professional clio tuners wanna weigh in?

 

[Neil G]

Bear in mind the test was conducted with a standard paper air filter in the box with the valve and then an induction kit with everything removed after. Loss was about 3bhp at 3000rpm with around 8bhp gain at 7000rpm.

From tests i have carried out i would have said replacing the standard filter in the airbox for a green/k&n one gives about 3 - 4 bhp at around 7000 rpm from standard with no loss at 3000rpm.

The main problem with the standard set up on the pug (prob same with the clio) is the intake temp rises very quickly when stopped or travelling slow and takes quite a while to get back down again when on the move.

Nick

Cheers for the reply Nick

Aren't you always going to have a problem with intake temps with the valve in place, IK installed etc? as the filter/airbox is pretty close to the engine and it does warm up when stationary.

 

[Nick_C]

True but i think a large amount of the heat is transferred from the heat to the inlet manifold. Next stage is to fit a thermal inlet gasket and monitor for any improvements. Its the heat from idle i am trying to reduce - eg sat at the start of a 1/4 mile or 0 - 60 run.

Nick

 

[Neil G]

I know it's a big issue with turbocharged cars...I had to always be careful in my old Impreza away from the lights due to the IC heating up when stationary increasing the inlet/charge temps.

I did think about wrapping the airbox and piping with insulation/heat reflective material to try and keep the inlet temps down when stationary.....not sure it'll make much difference though.

Gave my 172 some beans last night and it did go like a rocket so I'm thinking about leaving the valve in situ....if it aint broke don't fix it!

 

[sam_mcn]

Gave my 172 some beans last night and it did go like a rocket so I'm thinking about leaving the valve in situ....if it aint broke don't fix it!

You may get some more beans though if you remove the accoustic. IMHO power gains aren't particularly noticeable, the small improvment is just the way the power is delivered throughout the rev range...I think I'm going to change that material/textile looking stock cold air feed piping though for a wider nylon equivilant...I imagine it won't absorb the induction noise so much.

 

[Neil G]

I've thought about changing that fabric s**t as well....problem is finding something suitable to replace it with which will connect up at either end and not disintegrate in 5 minutes.

 

[Olimee]

My view:

The main reason is to allow warmer air from the engine bay (second tube) to pass into the engine whilst the engine is cold, as fuel doesn't mix well with stone cold air.

The air that passes into a engine needs to be within a specific temperature range, too low and the fuel does not mix, too high and the fuel will ignite to soon (knocking) hence intercoolers.

The french do have engine noise regulations, but the valve remains open when the engine is warm...

I could be completely wrong but hey-ho!

 

[iyrix]

Sorry, bringing up an old thread.

I'm looking at removing the acoustic valve.

I've got the bumper off and started the car when cold the valve is open.

I thought it should be shut?

Any ideas?

 

[Borstii]

Renault do not fit parts that are not necessary, that you can be sure of. :wink:

Well, yes sure....