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Is this a acoustic valve?
- Thread starter DrR
- Start date
'03 172, now a 2004 CTR
J
Jim NM
As I have been led to believe the accoustic valve is a necessary part due to the fact that most of the air intake pipework is made of plastic which is less dense than metal pipework, therefore the plastic will resonate (a screechy noise) without the accoustic valve setup. All to do with sound waves, it can get very scientific well above my head.
Renault do not fit parts that are not necessary, that you can be sure of.
Renault do not fit parts that are not necessary, that you can be sure of.
Thats what I thought! It's one bolt, a vacuum pipe and the air feed. It took 2 mins to take off. I can't feel any difference but it's not goin back on just yet!
Milltek'd 182
As I have been led to believe the accoustic valve is a necessary part due to the fact that most of the air intake pipework is made of plastic which is less dense than metal pipework, therefore the plastic will resonate (a screechy noise) without the accoustic valve setup. All to do with sound waves, it can get very scientific well above my head.
Renault do not fit parts that are not necessary, that you can be sure of.
its to comply with some EU (sweden etc..) noise laws, and isnt needed on a UK car. Someone from the trophy forum asked the renaultsport people and they said its fine to take off and 'you could see some gains in power, and an increased noise output' or something like that.
I've got as far as taking the Acoustic valve off but not yet got a better intake pipe (the stock one looks shite).
Where have you routed the new intake pipe to? Behind the headlight?
I was thinking about taking it down to the lower grill but will mean cutting holes and stuff which will be an arse if I ever want to put it all back to standard.
i could never find any renault paperwork to state its purpose. The airbox has 2 feeds to it. One sucks in in from under the bonnet and the other goes to that valve and sucks air from behind the front bumper/wheel arch. The air there is bound to be colder so i assumed when the engines cold the valve was shut in an attempt to use potentially warmer air from the under bonnet air feed. Ive noticed a lot of 172 are a bit hesitent around 2k when the engine is cold. Mine was exactly the same and since i ditched that valve and fitted an ik the hesitation is a lot more noticable.
Clio 172 mk2
I'm still undecided about removing this valve as my car does seem to go like a rocket and run well with it on and I'm a bit of a believer in the 'if it's not broken don't fix it' phrase.
I may just uplug the air feed at the airbox end to see if there is any noticeable difference in performance.
I may just uplug the air feed at the airbox end to see if there is any noticeable difference in performance.
182 inside
my only advice is that if you allow more air into the airbox to circulate(2 feeds) then the engine can take as much as it needs. It basically allows the engine to breath(intake) better.
Not any big BHp gains or anything but removing it will let more air into the airbox all the time.
The valve shuts the lower air feed when you gun it. Remove it and your fully loaded!
Not any big BHp gains or anything but removing it will let more air into the airbox all the time.
The valve shuts the lower air feed when you gun it. Remove it and your fully loaded!
Reset your ecu once youve done it. As far as i can tell that will return the ecu settings to their factory default meaning that it will then take into account the more free flowing ik straight away. Course this is not like a remap but it will make the throttle response alot tighter.
Done it quite a few times before and it always feels alot nippier after a reset.
Done it quite a few times before and it always feels alot nippier after a reset.
Clio 172 mk2
I always thought it opened above a certain rpm:S
I'm sure there is enough air available for the engine in stock trim...all this ram air stuff with cold air feeds from the front just sounds a bit suspect to me.
Are you sure this makes any difference? If so, how do you reset?
Polo GTi
Unplug the battery for a while, no idea how long though?
The 206 180 also has a valve like this. Its purpose (on the pug) is to slightly restrict the airflow at low rpm giving increased torque but then opens up when required for top end power. All the rr print outs for the 180 with and without this valve show a slight power increase at the top end with a slight loss at about 3000 rpm (where you use the engine most).
A decent cold air feed sealed to the front of the car and the airbox with a panel filter is best as the intake temps rise so quick when in traffic and even though they reduce on full throttle are still way above ambient.
Nick
A decent cold air feed sealed to the front of the car and the airbox with a panel filter is best as the intake temps rise so quick when in traffic and even though they reduce on full throttle are still way above ambient.
Nick
-Unplug the negative lead on the battery for about 20mins (not sure if this length of time is really needed but it makes sure all the systems are reset)
-Reconect the battery and turn on the car. The dash should make a few interesting noises (like a computer booting up).
-If you have a stock Headunit then you will need to type in the security code to get it working again.
-Now your good to go and should notice an imidiate increase in throttle responce. You should notice an improvement even if your car is totally stock.
Bear in mind though that this little trick dosnt last very long before it needs doing again. Over time the ecu will tone itself down to your daily driving level unless you drive like Alonzo around town.
Clio 172 mk2
That's what I though.....opening up at higher rpm.
The loss in power/torque at 3000rpm doesn't sound too good.
Mazda 2, MX5 Mk2.5 Sport
I only noticed this valve the other day when I had to get the front bumper off. I thought it maybe opened or closed depending on the engine/air temp when I looked at it. Never crossed my mind it could be to make the induction quieter.
As to losing power low down what about people that have fitted vipers and such like. They would have to remove this part of the induction, it can't make that much difference if any power wise can it?
As to losing power low down what about people that have fitted vipers and such like. They would have to remove this part of the induction, it can't make that much difference if any power wise can it?
Bear in mind the test was conducted with a standard paper air filter in the box with the valve and then an induction kit with everything removed after. Loss was about 3bhp at 3000rpm with around 8bhp gain at 7000rpm.
From tests i have carried out i would have said replacing the standard filter in the airbox for a green/k&n one gives about 3 - 4 bhp at around 7000 rpm from standard with no loss at 3000rpm.
The main problem with the standard set up on the pug (prob same with the clio) is the intake temp rises very quickly when stopped or travelling slow and takes quite a while to get back down again when on the move.
Nick
From tests i have carried out i would have said replacing the standard filter in the airbox for a green/k&n one gives about 3 - 4 bhp at around 7000 rpm from standard with no loss at 3000rpm.
The main problem with the standard set up on the pug (prob same with the clio) is the intake temp rises very quickly when stopped or travelling slow and takes quite a while to get back down again when on the move.
Nick
