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Landscape photography (Warning PIC heavy!)



  Meg 225
These are my first attempts at Landscape/Seascape photography. In some pic's i've used my new B+W 110ND filter and i really need to learn how to use it right. All pic's are processed (bad english lol) with Lightroom 4, but i need some good tips from the more experienced guys on here!
So feel free to C&C about the composition and what i could've done better in Lightroom
1.
7678012192_d043ba4857_z.jpg

Seascape from sunset Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

2.
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Seascape shot sunset at Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

3.
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Long exposure from beach at Renesse by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

4.
7678148144_ff9af49a7c_z.jpg

Long exposure shot from beach at Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

5.
7678157504_a5ca8a0db3_z.jpg

Long exposure shot from beach in Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

6.
7678169118_c4b4596e39_z.jpg

Seascape shot from beach at Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

7.
7678183632_8a0f01863d_z.jpg

Long Exposure shot from dunes in Renesse, NL by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

8.
7678202048_5f3694aa83_z.jpg

Landscape long exposure Renesse by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

9.
7678227806_3d9949e14d_z.jpg

Vlissingen by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr

10.
7678249286_7fbe269cb4_z.jpg

Windmill Vlissingen by Paul_jazzy83, on Flickr
 
Ok, couple of things from me.....

1) Lots of those pics demonstrate really well why you need sort sort of GND filter, as the sky is overexposed in many of the pics. A GND will fix that (graduated neutral density fyi)

2) You can work on your composition too. For example in pic 3, the horizon is almost in the middle of the frame and the line created by the beach is going straight into the middle of the photo....which isn't the best. Do some googling on leading lines and you'll see straight away how you could have shot that better.

3) The WB in many of the pics look very cold for sunset sort of photos, probably created by the filter. That can easily be adjusted too.

Do you shoot in RAW?

But other than that.....nice efforts!
 

Niall

ClioSport Club Member
In 8 there are some dust specs on your sensor, I had that problem and I got it sorted, in the short term you can just use the spot removal in lightroom. Also the over exposed sky problem can also be sorted in Lightroom with a Graduated filter (the Lightroom one, not a real one) until you get an actual Grad ND.

Personally I don’t use the real Graduated ND filters, mainly because I can be bothered messing about with filter holders and things, and after all I can get the same result from just bringing back the details in PP. Of course for serious landscape photographers they might be able to see the advantages, but for me its not a priority.

Other than that Just listen to what Dan said :)
 
I think those are excellent for a first attempt. #4, #5, #9 and #10 are the best for me.

#3 and #6 are very similar - I would've dropped one of those from the set, personally.
 
In 8 there are some dust specs on your sensor, I had that problem and I got it sorted, in the short term you can just use the spot removal in lightroom. Also the over exposed sky problem can also be sorted in Lightroom with a Graduated filter (the Lightroom one, not a real one) until you get an actual Grad ND.

Personally I don’t use the real Graduated ND filters, mainly because I can be bothered messing about with filter holders and things, and after all I can get the same result from just bringing back the details in PP. Of course for serious landscape photographers they might be able to see the advantages, but for me its not a priority.

Other than that Just listen to what Dan said :)

GND filters make a massive difference. As someone who uses proper filters and photoshop ones, the fake filters can't even compare to the results you get with proper ones.
They a fiddle and expensive yes, but photoshop will never be able to replace them.
 

Niall

ClioSport Club Member
Of course yeah, as someone who isn’t a serious landscape photographer I can’t justify the price and effort involved, someone like yourself would defiantly find a use for them, depends how far the OP wants to take it :)
 
Exactly. But just wanted to make sure people (not meaning you) realise that there is a massive difference between the two.

I have even spoken to people who don't use a polarising filter as they say they use a photoshop filter lol! Idiots.
 
  Meg 225
Ok, couple of things from me.....

1) Lots of those pics demonstrate really well why you need sort sort of GND filter, as the sky is overexposed in many of the pics. A GND will fix that (graduated neutral density fyi)

2) You can work on your composition too. For example in pic 3, the horizon is almost in the middle of the frame and the line created by the beach is going straight into the middle of the photo....which isn't the best. Do some googling on leading lines and you'll see straight away how you could have shot that better.

3) The WB in many of the pics look very cold for sunset sort of photos, probably created by the filter. That can easily be adjusted too.

Do you shoot in RAW?

But other than that.....nice efforts!

Well Dan i was thinking of buying a GND filter, could you recommend me a kit that's worth investing in? Was looking at LEE, bit expensive but i really want to get into landscape photography so maybe worth it?
As i was familiar with the rule of 3rd's not of all of them came out straight so i'd have to straighten them in LR, which make the rule of 3rd's more the rule of 2nd's lol
I did shoot in RAW, but sometimes i can't really 'see' if the pic should be more 'warm' or 'cold'
 
I bought the Lee Digital starter kit...which has the holder (but not the adapter for your lens!), 0.6GND and 0.6ND filter.

I've then bought a few more filters that fit in the same holder. If you can get Lee kit then do it, it's the best....BUT.....it's a bugger to get hold of as everyone is usually out of stock!

Failing that then do this.....but another kit like Cokin etc.....But make sure you think about future upgradeability ie. so if you have a few Cokin filters, but then want a Lee filter....it will still fit. I'm pretty sure Lee and Cokin make the same size filters of a certain series, but they do make other sizes too....so be aware of that.
 
My favorite would be two but more could have been made of those sand dunes for a lead in line and better exposure balancing would equal much more vibrant and saturated colours. Looks like sky is washed out and foreground underexposed.

I would agree with everything thats been said and reiterate just how important Grads are. Sometimes I stack them in tricky scenes for as much as a 6-7 stop differential. In raw you'll pull about 1 stop difference before image quality starts to degrade. Thats not to say you can't pull more than 1 stop in raw though.

I use budget filters like Cokin P and Hitech. I have no hassles with them (indeed I love them!) and use the £1 filter holders and rings off ebay. Sometimes I even hand hold a filter too :eek:

Personally I am hoping that sensor technology (dynamic range!) will catch up and grads will be a thing of the past. Give it 5-10 years and filter kits will be in bins and museums!
 
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Rubicon_

ClioSport Club Member
How is it you get the effect of like 'steam' coming from the water? Seen it on a few waterfall shots etc.

I understand if the question makes no sense, not sure how to describe it lol
 
Liking the effect with the ND110, was going to buy one a while back, but decided to wait till I'm back in the UK. I'll have to get my hands on one when I'm home though, great little toy.
 


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