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I put mine behind the passenger seat but kept a full size battery.
You need a battery tray/box. Positive & Negative battery terminals and wire, fuse holder and fuse, and a junction box for under the bonnet.
That's about it
You can also run a cut off switch in the dash if you wish. I didn't bother
You need a battery tray/box. Positive & Negative battery terminals and wire, fuse holder and fuse, and a junction box for under the bonnet.
That's about it
You can also run a cut off switch in the dash if you wish. I didn't bother
Ph1 track slag
More room in engine bay, less weight at front will result in better handling.
Better tell the GT3 RS to move its engine to the front then lol
A Porsche 911's suspension kinematics (angles of wishbones etc), geometry & spring/damper/ARB rates are all chosen very specifically to make the best use of a rear biased weight distribution.
Because tyres offer ***diminishing returns*** in terms of "grip" as you increase "weight" acting on the tyre, the most performance comes from spreading weight evenly across all 4 tyres first, and making best use of the quirks of the vehicle layout (trail braking a FWD to turn the nose in even sharper, or utilising the 911's traction) second.
i.e. 4 tyres each with 250KG will generate more combined grip than 2 front tyres with 330KG and 2 rears with 120KG. Hence weight transfer is bad as it generally causes uneven loading of tyres.
On topic: put the battery in the most practical place possible :tonguewink: Bear in mind the weight of 6m of chunky cable & consider if the £100 is better spent on tuition or just another track day.
Because tyres offer ***diminishing returns*** in terms of "grip" as you increase "weight" acting on the tyre, the most performance comes from spreading weight evenly across all 4 tyres first, and making best use of the quirks of the vehicle layout (trail braking a FWD to turn the nose in even sharper, or utilising the 911's traction) second.
i.e. 4 tyres each with 250KG will generate more combined grip than 2 front tyres with 330KG and 2 rears with 120KG. Hence weight transfer is bad as it generally causes uneven loading of tyres.
On topic: put the battery in the most practical place possible :tonguewink: Bear in mind the weight of 6m of chunky cable & consider if the £100 is better spent on tuition or just another track day.
Ph1 track slag
Less weight at the front I said, not more! Come on mate.
What I meant was that I find any fwd car feels friskier and lot better with no weight in the back. I don't think it matters if you add weight to the back as those wheels aren't really doing anything but getting dragged by the front. Imo I find the clio to understeer at the limit and only if really really pushed will it oversteer so it matters more that the front has grip and not the rear...
Ph1 track slag
Nose heavy fwd cars are not good handling cars which ever way you look at it. Reducing weight from the front helps.
I'm speaking from experience, had a 205 1.9gti for my last track car. Putting a gti6 lump in it was the worst thing to do for handling and driver enjoyment. Ruined what was so good about the 205! Gti6 engine I think was nearly twice as heavy as the alloy 1900!
could always extend the column, move the pedal back and mount the seat in the boot?
Anyway, back on topic, it is worth looking into what cable you choose to use, as you can struggle with voltage drop through running an extra 5m of cable or so.
I have relocated the battery on the last two 172's that I have had, put the original full size battery into the wheel well. I kept the original battery as I don't use the car much and was worried about starting performance after the car has stood for a week or so.
Starting is definitely more sluggish, and on the dash binnacle with the ignition key switched to two, instruments and fuel gauge would show as normal, and fuel level displayed. When I would start the car, the fuel level indicator drops to zero, before then returning to the correct setting. This did not occur when I had the battery in the original engine mounted position. Once started the car is fine, and with a multimeter it was running about 14.4V at the old engine positive terminal, which is about right, and suggests that the only issue was on start up.
Regarding earthing points, I have used existing earth points in the boot which are used with the rear light clusters.
I have also had a battery fitted under the passenger seat before I then fitted buckets, I earthed the car by fixing to a bolt that I put through the front transverse rail that the seats the mount across. As I was only using about two metres of cable, start up was a lot better from having the battery in that position.
I was using 25mm cable, and in hindsight should have got better quality.
I have relocated the battery on the last two 172's that I have had, put the original full size battery into the wheel well. I kept the original battery as I don't use the car much and was worried about starting performance after the car has stood for a week or so.
Starting is definitely more sluggish, and on the dash binnacle with the ignition key switched to two, instruments and fuel gauge would show as normal, and fuel level displayed. When I would start the car, the fuel level indicator drops to zero, before then returning to the correct setting. This did not occur when I had the battery in the original engine mounted position. Once started the car is fine, and with a multimeter it was running about 14.4V at the old engine positive terminal, which is about right, and suggests that the only issue was on start up.
Regarding earthing points, I have used existing earth points in the boot which are used with the rear light clusters.
I have also had a battery fitted under the passenger seat before I then fitted buckets, I earthed the car by fixing to a bolt that I put through the front transverse rail that the seats the mount across. As I was only using about two metres of cable, start up was a lot better from having the battery in that position.
I was using 25mm cable, and in hindsight should have got better quality.
Dave LM, interesting point. Did you get a chance to stick a multimeter on when the battery was in the boot?
Let me proceed my comments by saying I totally agree with you that "feel" is not to be underrated (a driver who knows their car = a driver that can safely push the limits of said car) and spending £100 on losing 7kg of battery vs £100 on tuition is odd. That said everyone on CS is a brilliant driver/race engineer & the only way they can go faster is by buying shiney stuff that says "track use" on the box...
No weight on the back = no grip on the back = more oversteery/less underteery = friskier as you quite rightly point out.
Referring to my earlier point of diminishing returns, adding 10KG to a 330KG front corner weight might gain 5KG worth of lateral force. But if you instead added that same 10KG to the 150KG rear corner weight you would gain say 10KG worth of lateral grip on decent tyres. However as you say it's pointless adding extra grip to the rear if you are limited by the front end. That's where setup & geometry comes in - dialing out understeer to let you make the most of adding that 10KG worth of grip to the rear.
Let me proceed my comments by saying I totally agree with you that "feel" is not to be underrated (a driver who knows their car = a driver that can safely push the limits of said car) and spending £100 on losing 7kg of battery vs £100 on tuition is odd. That said everyone on CS is a brilliant driver/race engineer & the only way they can go faster is by buying shiney stuff that says "track use" on the box...
No weight on the back = no grip on the back = more oversteery/less underteery = friskier as you quite rightly point out.
Referring to my earlier point of diminishing returns, adding 10KG to a 330KG front corner weight might gain 5KG worth of lateral force. But if you instead added that same 10KG to the 150KG rear corner weight you would gain say 10KG worth of lateral grip on decent tyres. However as you say it's pointless adding extra grip to the rear if you are limited by the front end. That's where setup & geometry comes in - dialing out understeer to let you make the most of adding that 10KG worth of grip to the rear.
@Steven103
I think the battery voltage was very similar with the engine running as to what reading I took using the original engine bay points, both about 14.4V.
I think the battery voltage was very similar with the engine running as to what reading I took using the original engine bay points, both about 14.4V.
182, SQ7, Trafic
I've had stock and that felt no where near understeer, more oversteer if anything. Coilovers would make it easier to understeer as your stiffening it and having no give in the suspension so the wheel will skip and be pushed.
Completely agree about the feel thing though, if you feel something and it's in your mind it'll give you greater confidence to push more.
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