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clio 172
hi, the best things to do to the valvers is to keep them as standard as possible. they keep there value better that way.
get a phase 2 version (better wheels, mirrors, bump strips, rear lights, interior)
valvers are almost as fast as a 172 from a standstill so you dont need an engine swap.only real dowsides are.. they are gettin old and are hard to find a good1.also they arent the safest of cars..also m.o.t time is expensive!
really good cars though...id have 1 as a second car if i could
my old phase 2
get a phase 2 version (better wheels, mirrors, bump strips, rear lights, interior)
valvers are almost as fast as a 172 from a standstill so you dont need an engine swap.only real dowsides are.. they are gettin old and are hard to find a good1.also they arent the safest of cars..also m.o.t time is expensive!
really good cars though...id have 1 as a second car if i could
my old phase 2
clio 172
i like subtle... i did, de-lock, de-badge, colour code the bump strips..and the drivers door pillar.
depending on how you use the car get it lowered abit...mine was 40mm. it looked good, but it was propper uncomfortable on country lanes.
'92 172, Lotus Elise
had to laugh at better wheels! Turbines are about a billion times nicer than ph2s!
clio 172
no way my friend no way!
thats like saying ph 1 172's are better looking than the ph 2 172's!!
and we know that aint right!
:quiet:
no way my friend no way!
thats like saying ph 1 172's are better looking than the ph 2 172's!!
and we know that aint right!
open can, worms everywhere
A F7R lump (2.0) does about 150bhp as standard as opposed to 137bhp from the F7P (1.8)
The 172 vvt is so very different to vtec, its pretty much just emissions based so discount that straight away.
The F7 engines do seem to respond well to mods, quite a few have turbo'd or throttle bodied them.
My mate, Djw Dave has a fully stripped valver which is exactly the same pace as my unstripped 172 to give you an idea of pace. A stripped willy would beat me!
The F7 engines do seem to respond well to mods, quite a few have turbo'd or throttle bodied them.
My mate, Djw Dave has a fully stripped valver which is exactly the same pace as my unstripped 172 to give you an idea of pace. A stripped willy would beat me!
Clio 172
totally agree!!! turbines rule!! in my opinion mate with my old phase 1 valver a good induction kit and decat opened the car up to no end, much more torquey mid range
heres a pic of my old one, one with turbines on and one with the wheels i sold it on.
Huds? I guess you mean hubs? Only need the suspension set up if you wnat to widetrack it, no need when its just the engine swap. Also as far as I know the hubs are the same.
and dont be fooled, the mk1 2.0s win pretty much 95% of drag races with their mk2 brothers. has been proven many many times.
engine out of megane wil fit too, and they are slightly cheaper, f7 r 710 or 714 for meganes, f7r 700 for williams.
throw the valver head on and work it a little, set of cams, decent remap and ur knockin on 180+ bhp quite easily.
good mk 1 s are hard to find now. but imho, the ph1 s are better, better rims, better trim (bumpstrips etc) no door bars to add the few extra kilos, etc etc
engine out of megane wil fit too, and they are slightly cheaper, f7 r 710 or 714 for meganes, f7r 700 for williams.
throw the valver head on and work it a little, set of cams, decent remap and ur knockin on 180+ bhp quite easily.
good mk 1 s are hard to find now. but imho, the ph1 s are better, better rims, better trim (bumpstrips etc) no door bars to add the few extra kilos, etc etc
Valver
Like most people said keep it standered (though its hard to find one that hasn't been touched, mine has an aftermarket exhaust). The value of valvers have dropped alot lately so its possible to pick one up for alot less than say 6 months ago. Thing with them is what you spend is what you tend to get.
You can lower them if you want. End of the day the torsion car can be raised or lowered, just a matter of you front springs.
Valvers handle very well, so the standerd suspension is fine. Though getting ya hands on a willy widetrack is reccomended to add to it (pick one up from ebay if you can). There is no point in spunking out on expensive 'coilovers' unless your useing the car on a track.
Stripping is also supprisingly effect on them, owners claim there is no loss in handleing but slight power gains, power to wieght ect. That sound deading in the back wieghs abit!
Engine wise, how much money you got? You can slap a 2ltr F7R bottom end and use the 1,8 head. From what i've been told the F7R bottom end is stronger and better if ya gonna start doing head work.
The standerd airbox is fine, howerever a k&N from what i've heard makes the valvers sound lovely, however if you find yeself in traffic the k&n tends to cause heatsoak makeing the car struggle when you move again.
Best bet mate is if you decide to get one is to shop around, and have a good look over the car (Arches! These cars do rust).
Another thing is valvers are strange cars, you get ones that are slow, but you get some freaks that go very well (think someone had a standed valver over 140 odd break on the rollers).
As mentioned clio16valver.co.uk is a good place to get info and see what other people have done, we're a friendly bunch!
oh and phase 1's are the best, and turbines are better than the phase 2s!
You can lower them if you want. End of the day the torsion car can be raised or lowered, just a matter of you front springs.
Valvers handle very well, so the standerd suspension is fine. Though getting ya hands on a willy widetrack is reccomended to add to it (pick one up from ebay if you can). There is no point in spunking out on expensive 'coilovers' unless your useing the car on a track.
Stripping is also supprisingly effect on them, owners claim there is no loss in handleing but slight power gains, power to wieght ect. That sound deading in the back wieghs abit!
Engine wise, how much money you got? You can slap a 2ltr F7R bottom end and use the 1,8 head. From what i've been told the F7R bottom end is stronger and better if ya gonna start doing head work.
The standerd airbox is fine, howerever a k&N from what i've heard makes the valvers sound lovely, however if you find yeself in traffic the k&n tends to cause heatsoak makeing the car struggle when you move again.
Best bet mate is if you decide to get one is to shop around, and have a good look over the car (Arches! These cars do rust).
Another thing is valvers are strange cars, you get ones that are slow, but you get some freaks that go very well (think someone had a standed valver over 140 odd break on the rollers).
As mentioned clio16valver.co.uk is a good place to get info and see what other people have done, we're a friendly bunch!
oh and phase 1's are the best, and turbines are better than the phase 2s!
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